Guest steamcorners Posted July 16, 2006 Share Posted July 16, 2006 Ok, newb here. Got a 95 SE-V6. Never worked on a 4wd vehicle before. I pulled the wheels today to replace pads/rotors, having glanced thru my Haynes manual (yes, I know I should have a FSM, but I haven't gotten around to it.) Pulled the auto-locking hub off via the 6 allen bolts(including the snapring), pulled the caliper and bracket off, and realized that I couldn't get the rotor off without pulling the hub. OK, so I went to Mr. Haynes, and from what I can tell, I have to pull the drive axle/CV joint/etc. to get the hub off the rotor to change the rotor. I can't seem to get the (6?) 14mm bolts to budge that hold the hub to the rotor--struggled to keep the whole works from spinning, but got that figured out. So I simply put the new pads on the old rotors after cleaning the rotor surface with sandpaper and a can of Brakleen. Now, I feel that I may have to pull everything anyhow, as the axles might need replacing(truck has nearly 150k miles, though I hardly use it off road--4wd is merely for bad snow days, only about 5-7 of those around here). Any suggestions? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted July 16, 2006 Share Posted July 16, 2006 (edited) You don't need to pull the axles out. Just take out the snaprings, then undo the two little philips screws and take out the retaining ring by turning it with a pair of needle nose pliers. The hub will come off then. To undo the 14mm bolts you want to wedge a pry bar or something between the wheel studs and then you can force the bolts with a breaker bar. Then you can tap out the disc from the hub. Edited July 17, 2006 by Filthy Luker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw Posted July 16, 2006 Share Posted July 16, 2006 (edited) keeping in mind that those two screws that go thru the locking plate go into the bearing pre-load nut. bearing pre load must be set fairly close, otherwise you will wear out the bearings quickly or have slop in the wheel. if your putting new rotors on you should pull the wheel bearing grease seal and remove both wheel bearings, clean & repack them and fit new seals. as for the cv's are they making noise when in 4wd? do they have visibly damaged boots? if they dont i might question why touch them. Edited July 16, 2006 by sw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted July 17, 2006 Share Posted July 17, 2006 and that's where FSM and dial indicator with mag base comes in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest steamcorners Posted July 17, 2006 Share Posted July 17, 2006 Took a quick look at the CV boot on the driver's side last night--boot is torn. No noises, however, so I should be ok. I suppose I should pull the axle to replace the boot, then. Thanks for the help! Gotta pick up a dial indicator soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw Posted July 17, 2006 Share Posted July 17, 2006 F L how does a dial indicator help with bearing pre-load? :confused: are you talking disc run-out? yeh replace that cv boot for sure!!!!! leave it and you will have to replace the cv as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 Good advice so far steam... You can get a mag base with indicator for about $25 from MSC industrial supply. (US anyway) Make sure to regrease the wheel bearings since you have the rotor off, and preload correctly as per manual. You shouldn't have any trouble after that, but it can never hurt to check after a few hundred miles... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted July 20, 2006 Share Posted July 20, 2006 Hey, anybody wanna post up or fax over that front bearing preload procedure? I replaced the wheel bearings while rebuilding the suspension on the '88, but had to resort to the "old american car" method of doing it by feel. I've never had a bearing go bad after I've serviced it, so I suspect my feel is pretty good, but I'd always prefer to do it more accurately when possible! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw Posted July 20, 2006 Share Posted July 20, 2006 (edited) well it involves a spring scale. do the preload nut up and use the spring scale to see how many newtons it takes for the disc to rotate. however its a bit vauge as you must try and keep the spring scale at 90 degress from the plain in which you are pulling from at all times. i tried the proper method the first time i played with the pathy front wheel bearings. having repacked them numerous times since and also already done the patrol front wheel bearings going by feel is the way to go ALSO counting the number of turns it takes to take the preload nut off is a fairly good indication as well. sorry no answers to your question just a bit of thought for the topic Edited July 20, 2006 by sw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now