SteeevO Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 so my overflow bottle is full and the level doesn't change at all. the temp guage is at half way after driving for less than 2 minutes and the temp stops climbing once the guage reaches about 2 needle widths above center... could the pump be out or would that be the thermostat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 my junk did the same stuff, i replaced the thermo and it stopped but it still gets hot, like maxed out hot when im wheelin or sittin in traffic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 t'stat possibly not opening correctly or not at all..... if not installed correctly then that is a tell tale sign.. i should know.... do you have pressure in both rad hoses (upper n lower) when running? have you burped your pathy lately? check the flluid level in the rad too..... fan clutch working ok? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 I fail to see what the problem is. Mine runs just above center of the gauge when hot too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rennwerkes Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 Unless your car's engine has been modified your temperature should be spot on at just below half or at half. I can't see any reason why it shouldn't be there unless there's a problem. My 91 never fluctuates once it reaches operating temp. Like Slick said, you've got to make sure everything is working and installed properly. Water pumps will usually show signs of failing by either leaking coolant or having a wobbly bearing. The fan clutch is another possibility if it's not working properly. I believe if you do a search someone's already discussed how to check it. The radiator should also be checked. Are your fins falling apart? Is it gunked up inside? Maybe it's time for a new one. A bad or old radiator could definitely cause over heating problems. Not sure about what the consensus is on the forum but I prefer to stick with factory temp thermostats. Used to be that guys like to run cooler thermo's on cars but what they basically did was keep the car running in "warm up" mode and basically just screwed their gas mileage. Car never reach operating temp. or just took a longer time to get there. Make sure you also use a good radiator fluid, a non phosphate type with distilled water to prevent deposits. I know it's on the expensive side but I prefer to use BMW fluid. I used to use the generic long life stuff and never really like it. I still ended up with deposits. Whew! Hopes this helps a little! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Boy Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 One problem with the temp gauge is there is no actual numbers on the gauge so we really don't even know what temp it's at when the needle is in the half way position. I have sat in 100 degree temps on a traffic riddled NYC streets and it didn't budge past 1/4 of the gauge. It's a factory T-stat and maybe am just lucky but I would say past the half way point is not good. With these aluminum blocks you really have to be careful with overheating and also change your anti freeze regularly as it will become acidic after all while and eat away at the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 (edited) One problem with the temp gauge is there is no actual numbers on the gauge so we really don't even know what temp it's at when the needle is in the half way position. With these aluminum blocks you really have to be careful with overheating and also change your anti freeze regularly as it will become acidic after all while and eat away at the block. i did a temp test on my pathy when it was overheating and halfway is about 190 degrees, the t'stats are 170 degree and at 170 you are sitting about half way from cold to the mid line. as for overheating the block.. warped heads/ to blown head gasket comes to mind,(i should know) fried pistons, and many other possibilities..... but if you're not running over half way you probably won't do any short term damage but do need to find the cause of the problem. Edited July 2, 2006 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted July 2, 2006 Author Share Posted July 2, 2006 i have already swapped out the fan clutch but i don't know why the overflow bottle is always full... i'm going to go out and check the levels burb it right now.. (crosses fingers) i did already look at a few other posts on overheating and no one mentioned the overfloe bottle always being full even when cold and not running. so i thought that might be a clue as to what it is but it looks like i'm just gonna have to check everything....dang thnx for the help though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 Yep, like rennwerkes said... And Slick also about burping. Generally, if the temperature changes from what was "normal pattern" quickly, something is failing. If it is gradual, it's usually a little bit of everything. Unless it is new, change the coolant (maybe flushing the system if it's crusty inside), burp it, check the fan clutch (spin it by hand, it shouldn't freewheel more than 1-4 or 1/2 turn max) and see what it does. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted July 2, 2006 Author Share Posted July 2, 2006 oh yeah and my radiator was flushed last summer and the fins are all in good shape Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted July 2, 2006 Author Share Posted July 2, 2006 so i burped it... it seemed like it took a long time for the t-stat to open to where you see the fluid level drop and start to circulate. but the burping did help however i don't think i did it long enough . how long should i be trying to burpit after the t-stat opens up? basically how long does it take for all the fluid to ciculate once completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rennwerkes Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 Sorry, no feedback from me on burping, I'm new to Nissan cooling systems. However, be careful about that spin check on the fan clutch. If I'm not mistaken, it's activated by heat and I think you're supposed to do the check when the car is cold? Hopefully someone will chime in on this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted July 3, 2006 Author Share Posted July 3, 2006 (edited) ok i burped it....alot... and it helped but i think the fan clutch is done... so i'm thinking i'm gonna squeeze one of these under the hood http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/27inch-electric.html i hope it'll fit. i'm gonna have to come up with bracketing ideas case i think it's a lil too wide Edited July 3, 2006 by SteeevO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 for burping, mine will NOT burp unless i have the rad cap ON and the burper valve OPEN. these are pressurized systems...... i let my old girl burp n burp til no more coolant spews from the burper valve... do NOT remove screw.... it's painful.... really....... it just needs to be open enuff for the coolant to burp out...... no more bubbles/spurts.. no more burping needed did you do what i recommended and check upper & lower rad hose pressure? give them the ol squeeze test.. they should he solid with fluid..... not squishy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted July 3, 2006 Author Share Posted July 3, 2006 mine burbed alot with the rad cap off i tried doing it with the burper valve. but i was unsure if it was the correct screw. the one i was looking at was right next to an electrical connection. it was straight down on top i loosned it but it diddn't seem like it was opened enough for it to do it's thing so i did it the rad cap way.. which did help but i'm unsure still if i got it all.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 (edited) heres the burper takes a 10mm socket Edited July 3, 2006 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 LMAO @ Burper If I'm not mistaken, it's activated by heat and I think you're supposed to do the check when the car is cold? Hopefully someone will chime in on this one. Absolutely, good call !! My bad for forgetting to mention it... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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