Guest michaelanderson20 Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Hello everyone. I am new to this forum. I need some advise from you guys on my 01 pathfinder. The rear end is infested with rust-please see pics. I have the service manual on how to remove it but I am scared these bolts will snap in half because they are corroded. Would the best way be to just go ahead and disconnect the rear end and buy new hardware where necessary(I guess the right quality from the hardare store ) I know new bushings are recommended but to replace them all is nearly $150. Should I just lubricate them and use again? It only has 60,000 miles. What kind of chemicals and paint do you recommend? I figure if I removed it I could do much better on the paint. Any advise would be great. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdhicks99 Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Use a wire brush to knock most of it off then use a spay-in bedliner on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder-jay Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 (edited) Hahah bud thats nothing! Trust me. Here this is what you can do to remove. Steps to remove Hardware: 1) Place some WD40 or loose nut on all of them and let it sit for 12-24 hours...longer the better -Remove hardware... if this does not work try step 2 2) -Use an Acetalyn/oxygen welding tank.... if you have -Place heat on the head of each bolt/screw untill it becomes red hot -Spray with WD40 or some sort of loose nut -Now try to remove the bolt -If the bolt comes out a bit then stops go back and forth with the wrench and it will slowly come out... if not re-heat and repeat methods untill it comes out. Steps to remove Rust: -Grind down all rust to bare metal and surrounding areas( good to have an inch or 2 away from the rust for it usually has alreasy started spreading). Be sure to grind it down with a steel brush found at any local hardware store. Its just an attachement for a grinder -Clean the surface of all grease/dust -Buy a primer (personally I use http://www.zrcworldwide.com/) Id give it 2 coats of primer. ZRC might be expensive but it is the only primer that chemicaly bonds with metal... it is used to paint bridges etc.... and on my dads old car it kept rust away for 15 years... then he scrapped the car (with still no rust and we live in Quebec with bad winters and lots of road salt and humidity in the summer) - I would then apply Gravel Guard, which is like a liquid tar. I beleive some call it bedliner but either way its a liquid tar that can be painted on top. It sprays out black. -After applying this I would then take some heat resistant paint and give it a coat or 2 just to make it look nice and smooth and more layers=more protection If this doesnt cover it then let me know! I got plenty of tricks and if you dont beleive me click My sig below and you will see the rust I dealt with hehe Thanks Jason P.S. Edited June 29, 2006 by Pathfinder-jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest michaelanderson20 Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 (edited) Thanks for the reply guys and yes I looked at your pics. What is your experience with removing these bolts? Do they usually snap off? I guess they aren't threaded all the way because they have bushings so I don't know how hard they would be to replace. Thank you. Wow you are fast! OH SORRY I DIDN'T SEE YOU ALREADY TOLD ME!!! :bow: Edited June 29, 2006 by michaelanderson20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder-jay Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Check the top post I edited it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest michaelanderson20 Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 (edited) If they do end up breaking off do they have those kind of bolts at a hardware store. As you can tell I don't have as much experience with this truck as you. And could I just put silicone on the bushings to reuse them. Edited June 29, 2006 by michaelanderson20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder-jay Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Hehe I just started with my truck its everyone on these forums that taught me stuff Anyhow as for the bolts its a bit harder to find in local hardware shops but I mean a local nissan shop sells em for 1$ a peice about... so its still not that bad. And for the bushings id just silicone em and use em again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC88Pathy Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 And this is why I'm glad my Pathy and I live in California! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Actually, most of the rust doesn't look bad... Still, you want to prep and coat it, but I only see a few things that are rusted solid. -Place heat on the head of each bolt/screw untill it becomes red hot-Spray with WD40 or some sort of loose nut ONLY if you are OK with igniting chemical sprays... You are working under the gas tank. To prep the bolts, scrub off as much rust as you can from the nut, head, exposed threads and contact points. Strike vigorously 1-3 times with a hammer(but don't damage/deform it). Apply a penetrant (not WD-40 *sigh*), let it soak 12+ hours, apply some more, let it soak... Just before you try removing it, whack it with the hammer again. Then use a breaker bar, protect your knuckles, and go for broke. If it doesn't turn or snap off, then heat it and beat it some more... POR 15 is also a good treatment, many people swear by it. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Ah, that's just surface rust. Use some purple cleaner and a pressure washer on it, then give 'er a wire-brush treatment. Or just pressure wash it, let it dry and paint right over the top with Rust-oleum or an appropriate rust-covering spraypaint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest michaelanderson20 Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Thanks for all your input. I'm ordering the POR-15 starter kit and chassis coatblack. It just brushes on so it is perfect for my application. Thank you guys, your great. I'll let you know how it goes!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder-jay Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 WD-40 *sigh* I was just giving an example of that type of material.... i use a product called loose lock.,.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Thanks for all your input. I'm ordering the POR-15 starter kit and chassis coatblack. It just brushes on so it is perfect for my application. Thank you guys, your great. I'll let you know how it goes!! YES! You will be soooooo pleased. Follow the instructions and you will be another believer. Not cheap, but so worth it. Do not compromise on the Marine Clean and Metal Ready steps - proper prep is 90% of a good paint job. And I agree that appears to be mostly trivial surface rust. Hit the nuts with PB Blaster the night before and I bet they'll come right off with no heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest michaelanderson20 Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 (edited) In order to remove the rear end and components I just need to remove the traction bar bolts(also called lower link),the shock mount bolts, and panhard rod. I am looking at a diagram and that looks like that it is. Is that correct??With the exception of the brake lines, parking brake and abs sensor. One other thing- would it be safe to soak these bolts and nuts in the Metal Ready solution. Edited June 30, 2006 by michaelanderson20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Also the upper control arms, sway bar, and driveshaft. I think it would be OK to soak the fasteners. Me? I took apart and repaired what I needed to, wire wheeled the bolts, and then put it back together and installed it. After it was in place and torqued, I did the MC, MR, and POR-15. That way, the exposed parts of the bolts are fully coated. Also serves as a thread locker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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