cdhicks99 Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 First things first. The eng. and a/t will be rebuilt this summer. I have never built anything smaller than a V8 and definately no imports. Any tips/suggestions for a jap v6 rookie? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 small hands is good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdhicks99 Posted June 16, 2006 Author Share Posted June 16, 2006 LOL, thanks I'll get the wifey involved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 (edited) depending how deep you plan on going, what you plan on changing and how much you plan on spending...i would suggest you make sure you get ALL gasket off the block (head gasket), pull your oil pan and check for wear/damage on the lower end and oil pump, and change the following stuff: head gaskets all intake gaskets cam seals rear main seal & pilot bearings fuel injection rail seals exhaust studs water pump t stat t belt all other drive belts i cleaned and honed my cylinders and OMG it helped soooo much! gives the piston rings something to bite into sly and anything else that looks pooped. label everything! you will not remember where every little sensor/hose and doodad goes by the time you're done! i went to wal*mart and got some neon colored sticky labels and labelled everything i wouldn't remember with like X1 (both ends ) X2..etc. it helped a LOT when it came to putting it all back together... like paint by numbers lol here's my nightmare with my truck for pics and info http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7681 Edited June 16, 2006 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdhicks99 Posted June 16, 2006 Author Share Posted June 16, 2006 It will be a complete job, geared toward more hp and torque. ALL internals will be replaced (minus crank hopefully), Block with be dipped and blasted. Here are my thoughts so far. New (lighter) rods, bore .030, New (better) pistons, all balanced, blueprinted. Heads surfaced, port matched, New valves, heavier springs, mild cams. Headers, dual exh.. That is where my knowledge stops. I feel I need to do something with the fuel delivery setup, and maybe electronics, but I am an old-school mechanic at peace with early model Chevy V8's! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 don't worry.. i was a chevy bitch before the pathy and dave (thunderbox) is nothin but a chevy man..... i feel ya........ as far as more pony power, if you have deep pockets, then go for the cams P&P and all them goodies.. cuz they will cost you.... before any upgrades are needed to the ECU, you can go 2 sizes above stock on cams thorley headers (dual exhaust is primarily for looks) and 2.5" pipe through to a flowmaster or similar muffler is recommended, with a high flow cat if you require one like i do, and if you don't wheel or submerge your pathy, and open air filter set up. I just run a K & N in mine. i have to smog my beast too so i am limited in upgrades (until i build my spare motor sly ) figure out what you want the pony power for, torque or just raw HP, smog laws, and if you have none.... dude! drop in a 350! :bow: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdhicks99 Posted June 16, 2006 Author Share Posted June 16, 2006 I have weighed my options on a 350 and I think I'd be better w/ the 3.0. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdhicks99 Posted June 16, 2006 Author Share Posted June 16, 2006 before any upgrades are needed to the ECU, you can go 2 sizes above stock on cams thorley headers (dual exhaust is primarily for looks) and 2.5" pipe through to a flowmaster or similar muffler is recommended, with a high flow cat if you require one like i do, and if you don't wheel or submerge your pathy, and open air filter set up. I just run a K & N in mine. i have to smog my beast too so i am limited in upgrades (until i build my spare motor sly ) I am not going for max HP just an increase, I am going only one step above stock on the cam. That being said would I stiil need the ECU redone? Your right dual exh. maybe overkill with the moderate HP increase. I have no emissions laws holding me back And hopefully soon after this I will be going with a snorkel so air intake isn't a priority right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 if you don't have smog laws why not go with the newer 3.3 VG motor? or casey t's favorite for HP the DT30E or whatever it is (having brain fart).... no.. your ecu will be fine up to 2 cam sizes larger with no ecu mods. dual exhaust is mainly for looks.... it's the headers and muffler and size of pipe that'll give you the extra giddy up 2.5" pipe is the norm upgrade.. but there are a couple guys who run 3".. which i think for a VG is overkill but everyone to his own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdhicks99 Posted June 16, 2006 Author Share Posted June 16, 2006 if you don't have smog laws why not go with the newer 3.3 VG motor? or casey t's favorite for HP the DT30E or whatever it is (having brain fart).... These are the kinda tips I'm looking for......Thanks Does the 3.3 bolt up directly? What the hell is a DT30? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 Did you say rebuild the A/T? Then I do have suggestion: Unless you personally know a good rebuilder with a proven track record (there are some out there, but elusive critters to say the least!), then don't bother! Do some searching around here to see why. A/T's of ANY make just don't make good candidates for rebuilding - far too complicated and boo-boo intolerant for the 95% of "professional" A/T mechanics that appear to be nothing more than knuckle dragging clueless buffoons or out and out thieves. Instead, get a "remanufactured" trans, a low mileage JY trans, or an imported pull out. Better yet, invest your time, effort, and money to swap in a 5 speed and sleep at night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 (edited) goto junkyard, find wd22 or d22 (could get away with r50), pull engine, replace yours if ur worried about whats inside then pull her apart opps just read this.... Does the 3.3 bolt up directly? yes it does, just need to swap over the 30 crank to the 33 block and the 30 'stuff' (alts, PS pump. etc), same puter same tranny same mounts Edited June 16, 2006 by FLApathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 VG30DE to clarify.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 Did you say rebuild the A/T? Then I do have suggestion: Unless you personally know a good rebuilder with a proven track record (there are some out there, but elusive critters to say the least!), then don't bother! Do some searching around here to see why. A/T's of ANY make just don't make good candidates for rebuilding - far too complicated and boo-boo intolerant for the 95% of "professional" A/T mechanics that appear to be nothing more than knuckle dragging clueless buffoons or out and out thieves. Instead, get a "remanufactured" trans, a low mileage JY trans, or an imported pull out. Better yet, invest your time, effort, and money to swap in a 5 speed and sleep at night. dave's been rebuildin chevy auto trannies for the past 5 months now we're trying to find a pathy cheap with a fried autotrgic so he can rebuild it sly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 are there any stroker kits out there for maxima's, pathys or hb's...i think that would be awsome... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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