First Post, Hi All. Brake Disc Removal Q

[PathA4]

I ordered and received a pair of cryogenically treated front rotors from www.frozenrotors.com. After opening up the box, I realized these rotors looked alot like rotors from mid-90's Honda Accords (albeit much larger) and instantly feared that I'd have to remove the hub to replace them.

 

I've rotated the tires a few times and I swear the few times I glanced at the front rotors, they seemed to be the garden variety rotor that you slide right off once you get the brake caliper hardware out of the way.

 

I've searched and read posts from other readers indicating that the hub/rotor assembly comes off together. However, is it possible to remove the bolts securing the rotor to the hub to pull the rotor without having to also pull the hub?

 

Either job is doable for me, I just wanted to make sure I knew what I was getting into. I also want to make sure I have all the parts, like that bearing lock socket, bearing grease, etc...

 

Thanks,

 

Andrew

working on the wife's 2004 Pathy SE

[vengeful]

You have to remove the hub. The rotors are held in by 6 bolts on the back side of the hub.

 

I'll see if I can't come up with PDFs for the procedure for you this morning.

[PathA4]

You have to remove the hub.  The rotors are held in by 6 bolts on the back side of the hub. 

Yeah, I was afraid of that. I just saw these pictures too on an XTerra bearing write-up.

 

The hub is definitely in front of the rotor. View while still on the vehicle.

 

View from the backside, off the vehicle.

 

I don't have a huge data sample, but it seems that cars using this setup have more pulsing/warping rotor problems than those with rotors that simply slide on and off. Possibly over-constraining the rotor, which undergoes huge thermal cycles?

 

We'll see how these frozen rotors hold up.

[lewisnc100]

I don't have a huge data sample, but it seems that cars using this setup have more pulsing/warping rotor problems than those with rotors that simply slide on and off.

I think you'll find with the R50s the 96-99 rotors held up very well, but the 99.5+ rotors have had problems. My 97 has over 116k on the original rotors with no warping.

[nycxice13]

Same here, original rotors at 122,000 miles. Might be looking into those cryo-rotors though. Cross drilled.

[vengeful]

I just replaced my factory rotors at 114k on my 99. They looked good, but needed to be turned and had already been turned twice. I don't like to turn rotors more than twice, and most places wont. It was actually cheaper to buy new rotors than to have the existing ones turned. And since I did the work myself, I saved even more money.

 

I'm uploading the 2004 FSM as I post this, and I'll send you a link for the Brake Section via PM.

[PathA4]

I'm uploading the 2004 FSM as I post this, and I'll send you a link for the Brake Section via PM.

Thank you kindly sir!!

[XPLORx4]

You can also reference the photos here although the photos show how to replace the hub, not the rotors. The effort is practically the same either way. And while you've got the hub removed, you might as well repack the bearings, too.

Edited June 16, 2006 by XPLORx4

[PathA4]

You can also reference the photos here although the photos show how to replace the hub, not the rotors. The effort is practically the same either way. And while you've got the hub removed, you might as well repack the bearings, too.

Excellent photos. I just bought the following parts from summit in anticipation of doing the bearings. Should be a messy weekend.

 

Thanks for all your help!

 

RED-80402 CV-2EP GREASE 14OZ A Shipped on 06/16/06 $8.50 1 $8.50

SUM-W1218 BEARING PACKER A Shipped on 06/16/06 $3.95 1 $3.95

SUM-W54204 PRO PISTOL GRIP GREASE GUN A Shipped on 06/16/06 $9.95 1 $9.95

SUM-W83007 4WD SPINDLE NUT WRENCH ISUZU A Shipped on 06/16/06 $12.95 1 $12.95

[XPLORx4]

You forgot 2 critical parts: new inner bearing grease seals.

[PathA4]

You forgot 2 critical parts: new inner bearing grease seals.

Picked up in person at the dealer yesterday.

[Typhus]

Picked up in person at the dealer yesterday.

 

getting ready to do my rotors, and struts on the exact same vehicle this weekend. (2004 pathfinder se)., so I re-visited this post in hopes of reviewing the PDF, but it seems to be gone now, or no longer working for some reason.

Just curious about a couple details.

Do you really need the spindle nut wrench?

What size are the bolt heads on the caliper mount ...... 22mm ?

Does anyone ever use locktite when re-seating the screw you have to remove when the hub is off?

And last but not least, about the inner grease seals, are the one they sale at Napa just as good, or do you recommend going to the dealer?

 

Thanks

Edited May 12, 2008 by Typhus

[Pezzy]

Do you really need the spindle nut wrench?

I've done it without one...

 

What size are the bolt heads on the caliper mount ...... 22mm ?

not 100% sure, but you're close if you're not right.

 

And last but not least, about the inner grease seals, are the one they sale at Napa just as good, or do you recommend going to the dealer?

I just got them from the dealer... was about $16.00 for the set.

[PathA4]

Here you go:

 

FSMs

 

getting ready to do my rotors, and struts on the exact same vehicle this weekend. (2004 pathfinder se)., so I re-visited this post in hopes of reviewing the PDF, but it seems to be gone now, or no longer working for some reason.

Just curious about a couple details.

Do you really need the spindle nut wrench?

What size are the bolt heads on the caliper mount ...... 22mm ?

Does anyone ever use locktite when re-seating the screw you have to remove when the hub is off?

And last but not least, about the inner grease seals, are the one they sale at Napa just as good, or do you recommend going to the dealer?

 

Thanks

[Typhus]

Here you go:

 

FSMs

 

Thank You!

Downloading right now, and BTW, I was trying to locate that Spindle nut tool yesterday, but couldnt figure out exactly which one/size it was.

Is there any indication on the tool that makes its spceific? Too late for me to order the one you did from summit, but Im trying to locate one here locally, any details would be appreciated.

Thanks everyone for the info..

typhus

 

Edit... just downloaded the FSM, but Im having a hard time trying to open it. Di I need a special program to open this file?

Edited May 13, 2008 by Typhus

[PathA4]

Get ExtractNow from www.download.com

 

As for the spindle nut tool, I can't give specific dimensions. I just know it's the one listed in most catalogs for Isuzu Rodeo/Honda Passport vehicles. Also, i know some have purchased the ford 4-prong spindle tool and ground down 2 of the prongs to make it a 2-prong tool.

 

Thank You!

Downloading right now, and BTW, I was trying to locate that Spindle nut tool yesterday, but couldnt figure out exactly which one/size it was.

Is there any indication on the tool that makes its spceific? Too late for me to order the one you did from summit, but Im trying to locate one here locally, any details would be appreciated.

Thanks everyone for the info..

typhus

 

Edit... just downloaded the FSM, but Im having a hard time trying to open it. Di I need a special program to open this file?

[Typhus]

Do you really need the spindle nut wrench?

I've done it without one...

 

What size are the bolt heads on the caliper mount ...... 22mm ?

not 100% sure, but you're close if you're not right.

 

And last but not least, about the inner grease seals, are the one they sale at Napa just as good, or do you recommend going to the dealer?

I just got them from the dealer... was about $16.00 for the set.

 

 

Just a quick update.

 

Ive completed the Rotors / strut job, just need to throw on the back kyb shocks ang I will be done.

 

I didnt have the spindle nut socket, but I didnt need one. You can tap it out with a tap and hammer, and then reverse to seat the bearing after re-pack, then back it off again, and seat it in place one last time with just a snugging tap.

 

Quick question, and I just couldnt remember since it had been quite some time since I had a hub apart.

 

After you re-pack the bearings, and place the inner bearing in and then seat the grease seal, do you pack that inner cavity with grease, or just a thin layer around the perimeter? I couldnt remember if I had ever filled that up with grease before. Hope not, becasue I just put a thin layer back in.

 

One strange thing happened that Ive never really experienced before when doing brakes.

After I had completed the job, just backing out of the garage, and softly applying the brakes, the calliper would grab and make a loud biting sound.

I was like

 

I ended up pulling the Pathy back in, up she went and off with the callipers again to see what the heck I could have possibly done wrong, even though I was pretty sure that I did everything right to begin with.

Everything seemed in order, and I even toqued everything to spec.

So I through the wheels back on, and start backing out and theres that same dang noise again.

 

So at this point Im really scratching my head, because I know everything is right, I double checked, even making sure that I hadnt performed the ultimate goof, and put a pad in upside down,,, dont laugh, it happens, Ive never personally dont it, but a mechanic friend of mine actually had, once,,, thats another story.

 

So anyways, now Im fighting off the redneck urge to fix it by driving it really fast. You know that urge you get, that maybe by driving the vehicle, you will some how drive out the problem. That theory hardly ever works, usually results in more expensive repairs, but anyway, I was getting pretty ticked off at this point so I reverted to my redneck metnality and headed for some open road.

 

Unbelievably, it just seemed that the new rotors and pads needed to "seat" in a sence. Does that make any sence?

After some nice hard braking, the noise completely went away.

 

Ive done a few brake jobs in my time, and I dont think Ive ever encountered that issue. Noise was always the end result of screwing something up.

Edited May 18, 2008 by Typhus

[PathA4]

After I did my wife's, I had some pulsing and a little noise, but as I bed the brakes in, the problem resolved. I wonder if I had some bearing grease on the rotors by accident. It wasn't anything like you said though...

 

Ive done a few brake jobs in my time, and I dont think Ive ever encountered that issue. Noise was always the end result of screwing something up.