wheel366 Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 Does anybody know where the writeup is for installing the electric fan and where to get the cheap relay? I did some searching, but I'm at work and don't have time to really give it a go. I want to get this installed before I drive to Chicago next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 idk bout on here but they are all over AC and N4W, if i come across one ill link ya to it cuzz im looking for too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheel366 Posted June 12, 2006 Author Share Posted June 12, 2006 Thanks man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...hl=electric+fan http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...hl=electric+fan http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...hl=electric+fan That should get you started... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 yeah thats pretty much the info i found too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 (edited) Here's the schematic of mine. I'm using a Hayden wiring kit and adjustable t'stat on a Taurus fan. I'm using the Hayden relay to fire the 80a relay because of the fans current draw. BTW, while I was drawing this I realized I could've saved a few bucks and used a regular SPDT automotive relay and some wire instead of buying the Hayden kit. Edited June 13, 2006 by jj big shoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 Like this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 It's easy as hell. 1. Buy fan, mounting kit and thermostat kit. 2. Remove stock fan shroud and fan, then bolt the WP pulley back on without it. 3. Mount your new fan to the radiator with the mounting kit. 4. Wire it up according to instructions that come with the thermostat kit. 5. Drive. I had to trim the shroud around the fan I'm using, but it's all eyeball work. Make it fit. Plastic is very easy to trim and/or cut. That's about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheel366 Posted June 13, 2006 Author Share Posted June 13, 2006 (edited) So, I called mothers and they have a whole kit that I bought. It pulls 1200cfm I think he said and it was around 14 1/2 inches. I also bought the amsoil bypass and oil filter relocation kit today. This is the one I bought. http://www.amsoil.com/bypassfilters/instructions/bmk13.aspx I got a 6 inch bypass filter and a 7 inch full-flow filter to go with it. Hopefully it will work out well. Edited June 13, 2006 by wheel366 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 1200 cfm isn't going to cool your engine. You need a lot more than that. You need at least 2000+ CFM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 (edited) Many of us are using OE fans because they are cheaper, more powerful, and generally more durable and reliable. I have a 3 speed BMW 528 fan in mine (got it free), and several others are using the very powerful 2 speed fans from 3.8L Ford Tauri/Lincoln Continentals. I am putting 2 of these in my tow van. These move a LOT of air - I'd estimate well over 3000 cfm, but do require 75 amp or doubled up 30 amp relays on high speed. I use the Flex-a-lite 31165-VSC controller to automatically control the fan on the low speed setting because it is has so many functional options, and then have a manual switch to kick on the hurricane mode if needed. Haven't needed it yet! Edited June 13, 2006 by mws Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 Also, if you are looking to install one of the high powered fans (like the 3.8L Taurus or the super beast Lincoln Mark VIII fan, grunt grunt grunt) , I recommend using fusible links over fuses. Powerful electric motors pull quite a bit of extra current at start up, and fuses tend to blow annoyingly often in this kind of application. A fusible link is better suited to this kind of application. They almost never "blow" or fail except when something goes terribly wrong... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheel366 Posted June 13, 2006 Author Share Posted June 13, 2006 The guy at the shop seemed to think this would be fine. If it isn't, I can always keep the electronics and get another fan. That's not a problem. How much cfm does the stock fan put out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 Mechanical fans push a LOT. More than most electric fans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheel366 Posted June 13, 2006 Author Share Posted June 13, 2006 Well, that sucks! I can always get another fan. At least I'll be doing 99% all highway so I'll have the breeze to help. I could be wrong on cfm, but it could be 1500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeV Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 :Magic: Good Luck on your roadtrip! Why go electric? are you having overheating issues? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 FYI, you rarely need ANY fan while driving on the highway - that's why electrics can save so much fuel! Over about 30 mph, there is enough air ramming through the radiator that no fan is necessary. It's when you're stopped or driving slow when you need the fan. Especially if you have the A/C on. You must ALWAYS have the fan on whenever the compressor is engaged (A/C or defroster) is on at speeds under 30 to keep air flowing through the condensor. That's why all good fan controllers tap into the compressor wiring. I put a manual switch in to bypass this and shut off the fan when running the A/C on the freeway, but do so at your own risk. You must remember to un-bypass as soon as you slow down or your A/C gets much less efficient and could even be damaged (low risk, but still). I drove mine for a couple months without any fan at all... Just avoided in town traffic and kept an eye on temp gauge and did not use A/C or defroster... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 mws is exactly correct. On my last nissan truck, it was fine on the freeway and at speeds over 30mph, even in the summer in Cali. It would heat up at stoplights and serious traffic. Fan clutch was shot (original with 120k on it). Remember that when you are at speed, the belted fan is actually fighting the inflowing air... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheel366 Posted June 19, 2006 Author Share Posted June 19, 2006 I'm not having overheating problems, I just NEED better gas mileage. I got the fan today. It was a flex-a-lite 114. I returned it and had them order the 116. I also got the AC relay and a thermostat control. As for the relocation kit, they are going to also relocate the fuel filter so I can fir the oil filters better. Man, a lot of work to do in 2 days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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