Mr. Pickles Posted March 31, 2004 Share Posted March 31, 2004 I just finally got my alignment straight after the 4th try in the last 2 months. Les Schwab did it but stipped one of the bolts on the driver's side control arm trying to put in shims. They tried to pass it off, so I got about 2 miles down the road and it blew apart. Got that fixed, then re-aligned (Les Schwab denied ANY responsibility! They said it must have BEEN LIKE THAT WHEN I DROVE IT IN!!!). Then was in a wreck a few days later in a rain storm, when a guy went road rage and slammed his brakes in Taurus, and I slid into him. Even the cops said it was obvious he did it intentionally. Wasted his Taurus, it crumpled up like a beer can. Got it fixed and re-aligned at Firestone, but it was off since they didn't do a complete job. Now on the 4th try, it tracks perfectly straight. Whew, I'm winded with all that. Ok. Now, since it isn't pulling to the side, I'm noticing more than ever that things seem to be getting tired in the front end. I have about an inch of play side to side in the steering wheel while driving, and it likes to wander a bit. The mudders don't help, of course. Could this be bushings, etc. or worn out parts? I've never really played with front suspension much, but if there is something I could tackle myself to eliminate this annoyance, I'm there. The wallet is getting a bit light lately from all the trips to the shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw Posted March 31, 2004 Share Posted March 31, 2004 firstly i dont suspect bushings - worn bushings usually give a 'shake' however do a visual on them to eliminate them check your ball joints, there are three or four each side - they do simply wear out. also check your centre link, they wear out also. also check your wheel bearings, it might be time for renewal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted March 31, 2004 Author Share Posted March 31, 2004 I have a shake as well, as in the steering wheel shaking side to side. Pretty annoying really. I guess it wasn't as noticable before because the alignment was off and it was pulling to the right. As for checking the ball joints, what would one be looking for. General looseness? I'm just wondering if I'd be better off taking it in and getting shafted in more bills. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesmaximase Posted March 31, 2004 Share Posted March 31, 2004 tie rod ends Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw Posted April 1, 2004 Share Posted April 1, 2004 i would leave taking it to a shop as the last resort, the moneys better in your pocket than theirs...... if you can wait till tomorrow i will take some pictures tonite from my path pics will help explain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted April 1, 2004 Author Share Posted April 1, 2004 Cool, much appreciated. I'm in no real hurry, just want to get rid of the annoyance eventually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted April 1, 2004 Share Posted April 1, 2004 Centerlink and tire/wheel balance. Also check your idler arm for slop/movement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
br2an Posted April 1, 2004 Share Posted April 1, 2004 If you find any front end parts are worn, you should request another wheel alignment. I can't imagine giving a vehicle an alignment without checking that the frontend parts are within specifications. It is impossible to set the toe-in correctly if the tierods have play in them. Likewise setting castor/camber with bad balljoints. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw Posted April 2, 2004 Share Posted April 2, 2004 first picture is of a 'ball joint' basically to see if there is any slop grab the two bits of metal that the ball joint joins and try to move them apart. they shouldnt move apart any if theres no slop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw Posted April 2, 2004 Share Posted April 2, 2004 second is of the centre link, check for slop in the same way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw Posted April 2, 2004 Share Posted April 2, 2004 third is of the idler arm - not sure how to check this one, but use your imagination or ask 88 - he seems to know everything else Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted April 2, 2004 Share Posted April 2, 2004 #1 is the centerlink end...it is a balljoint, but it's not the one you need to check, specifically when someone's talking about balljoints. The joints on the centerlink are just referred to as part of the CL itself. #2 is the centerlink, yes. Otherwise known as the drag link. #3 is the pitman arm. Attached to the steering box, yes-no? The idler arm is on the other side and simply sits idle, allowing the CL joint to move back and forth. The pitman arm actually applies a sideways motion to the CL, which is why they're different. The regular balljoints are located at the ends of the control arms, just inside your wheel and directly above and below your front brake disc. To check movement of balljoints: jack up vehicle, remove wheel, use a long prybar to wedge between upper control arm and the steering knuckle. Carefully try to push up and down with the prybar. If the balljoint moves in any direction but side to side, it should be replaced. To check steering linkage movement, have a friend sit in the driver's seat. Start the vehicle and crank the wheels all the way one direction or the other. Shut off the vehicle but leave the key in the "ACC" position so the steering wheel will still turn back and forth without locking. Have your friend turn the steering wheel back and forth repeatedly while you look underneath at the idler arm, CL, tie rods and balljoints. Also watch the upper control arms, if the bushings are bad the UCA will flex towards the frame against the bushings. To observe the other side of the vehicle, turn the wheels the other way and have your friend do the same thing. If any of the joints move up and down or back and forth too much, they are probably worn out and should be replaced. Normal allowance for movement is very little, so any noticeable amount of play between joints should have attention paid to it. Steve: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw Posted April 5, 2004 Share Posted April 5, 2004 i give up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChromoTech Posted April 5, 2004 Share Posted April 5, 2004 I need to get the whole front end of my truck redone! all of my bushings are rotten! and my lower ball jonts are leaking grease! HELP I also noticed that my 32x11.5R15 tires have bent up my fenders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw Posted April 5, 2004 Share Posted April 5, 2004 calmini steering solution yum yum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FloydMax Posted April 29, 2004 Share Posted April 29, 2004 Had a Plymouth Wagon once that had wander after an alignment. Seems the technician set the toe-in to zero. With no resistance in a forward motion, the car saved a little bit of fuel. In town she was OK in part because with all the variations in the local roads and the low speed, you are always correcting anyways, but on the Interstate, it would wander. When it was taken back the toe-in was set correctly to spec rather than dead neutral and the wandering stopped. I understand that without a little toe-in, a vehicle's tends to wander until it comes up against some mechanical resistance in the steering apparatus, like when you adjust with the steering wheel. I also found with that Plymouth that by running the tires a little softer, like at factory spec (ugh!) it wandered a lot less. Of course the softer tires masked that the front end was getting worn out (but not yet quite in need of work) and we all know that soft tires keep warranty repairs down because it cushions the car so nicely...fewer rattles, less vibration, etc. But airing down is one way you may obtain a decent roadability without further $$$ spent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somethingcool Posted May 1, 2004 Share Posted May 1, 2004 Make sure Schwab used the right specs: Camber 0.563-2.063 Positive Prefered 1.313 Positive Caster 0.0625 Negative to 1.4375 Positive Prefered 0.6875 Positive Total Toe is for toe in at 0.08-0.24 They did mine and their computer had double the toe and caster/camber were off by a little bit. Made em do it again today... I just can't believe the alignment computer has the wrong specs, it's probably so they can sell more tires in the long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanPerson Posted May 1, 2004 Share Posted May 1, 2004 Funny thing. I just had new steering put in mine and they supposedly aligned everything....well, when I let go of the wheel it takes a sharp left. So, needless to say, it's going back since the tires all have the same air pressure. Wouldn't you think test driving a car after you fixed it would catch that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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