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Help needed with alarm system.


VW_Factor
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Thats really weird how in only a course of a year cuz VW's is a 94 and mines a 95 that the alarm systems are so different. Does anyone else have a 95 that looks like mine and not VW's?

My bad. I didnt realize in the little profile it was listed as 94. Its a 93.

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Well. Ive run down and checked all the wiring. (took forever).. Opened the alarm module up. Nothing obvious thats wrong with it (loose solder joints, corrosion, etc).

 

Again, messing with the battery, I got a response.

 

Drivers door was open, reconnected the cable, and the horn spoke "armed", and locked the doors. I shut the drivers door, and the light did a slow flash. Another press of the button garnered "disarmed" and it unlocked the doors.

 

Afterwards, back to fast flash condition, and no response from the system at all.

 

I really have no idea wtf is going on with this thing.

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ive got a 94 and when my alarm fob worked and i clicked it my horn never said anything. you might have something after market there installed. but my fob dont work no more and ive tried reprograming it and it doesnt like me

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Hey VW, I don't have any suggestions but am curious to know if you tried both boxes? Do you get the same result with either box?

Ive tried both boxes with the same results. You can unplug the box from the truck totally and the truck continues to function normally.

 

As for something being aftermarket. I suppose it is possible. Thats why I decided to post up some pictures of what this stuff looks like.

 

I mean. The way its installed, the wiring job, etc.. It all looks factory. I never remembered the thing "talking" in the past either. It really kinda surprised me when it began doing this.

 

Otherwise.. I really need to get something of a working alarm system in this truck. My wife and I have recently installed some nicer stereo equipment, and we need to protect that investment. (I tell ya, installing a radio in these things is no easy task.. lol)

 

So. Im going to head up to Portland (Oregon) today and see what some places up there have for alarm systems. CarToys here in Salem is selling some reasonably priced Clifford systems (250 to 350 range), I just want to shop around some, see if I can find someone with an "open box" sale or something.

 

Anyway, I guess you can kinda tell, Ive given up on this thing. I've spent too many wasted hours trying to get this thing working.

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  • 8 months later...

This post has been dead for a while so I know it may take some time to get questions answered, but...

 

My alarm is finally going crazy! I've been trying to find symptoms like it on here, but no luck. I have no keyfob and have just been passive-arming for the last year or so. Finally today, after a long road trip, I get home and my car alarm starts going off 3 to 10 minutes AFTER it is fully locked and beeps "armed" 30 seconds later.

 

What could be causing it to have such a delayed reaction? It's not even in "contact" mode, the switch is in the middle position. I checked all the doors with the dome light and they're all closing with no flickering, and I raised the hood switch up, but it still went off after 10 minutes or so. What's the best way to test and make sure the hood switch is functioning properly? Can I bypass the hood switch so that the alarm system thinks the hood is always closed?

 

Kevin

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I'm sure you could 'hot wire' a switch closed. THrow an ohm meter on the elads and check to see if "closed" is an open or closed circuit configuration then snip or solder the wires accordingly. I had my alarm periodically going off when my rear door wasn't latching completely (lights flicker on while driving... common problem). When a strong gust of wind would happen overnight, it was enough to make the rear hatch open just enough to trigger the alarm.

 

I wish there was a code that told you what sensor triggered it. :shrug:

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Is this the ground?

 

2z8yy6o.jpg

 

Because if so, well, there's some kind of problem...

And if it isn't, well, I bet it was still important...

 

If not, let me know where that ground is, since I've now messed with all the door/hood/hatch switches and everything seems to be working fine...

Edited by KevinKernaghan
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I'm sure you could 'hot wire' a switch closed. THrow an ohm meter on the elads and check to see if "closed" is an open or closed circuit configuration then snip or solder the wires accordingly. I had my alarm periodically going off when my rear door wasn't latching completely (lights flicker on while driving... common problem). When a strong gust of wind would happen overnight, it was enough to make the rear hatch open just enough to trigger the alarm.

 

I wish there was a code that told you what sensor triggered it. :shrug:

Where is the sensor located for the back door?

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inside the latch mechanism on the door. When you close it, the D-shaped ring is not only grabbed by the latch mechanism but it pushes up a rubber switch inside the latch. Open the door, throw some light up inside the latch and poke a little with a screwdriver. You'll find a rubber wedge shaped thingie that moves. That's it. I believe you can get at the wiring from inside if you pull the panel but I've never been there.

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With the trouble these alarms can be, it might be neat to get some photos of where these guys are located, and what they look like. I'll take a look into getting some pictures, so that perhaps we can help other people with this.

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