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Installing a Factory Roof Rack


Freddymac
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Today, I've began to realize that my 95 Pathy was suffering a mid life crisis....

 

(Hmm, could be likened to 'Lack of Rack Envy Syndrome')

 

So I called my local 'Rack Attack' advisor who promptly quoted numbers resembling a new set of off road tires.

 

(He was quickly dismissed as a lunatic ,albeit a complete and totally greedy Capitalist) as my heart slowly settled back to 150 over 80. :blink:

 

Next I scoured the 'Auto Recyling Experts'...(Gawd, how low does one stoop to feed the "Hunger"?) ...DON"T go there Bud - YOU KNOW as well as my shrink does: He called it, 'BeantharDundat' Syndrome.

 

My 'A.R.E.' dude spoke in heavily accented Russian: :confused:

 

"Shur, I gott Rrack for U, vom 93 Paddfindr - Vant 125 - Vant 2 by?", he said gauging my eyes for interest as I zoomed in on my quarry...

 

...an almost complete 93 XE with the left side bashed in.

 

A young Russian-Canadian mech was dismantling a perfect right fender from this fallen member of the 'Flock' as I blessed the young man silently for his Holy work of restorations and recovery.

 

My careful gaze fell towards the undamaged roof.

 

My eyes snaped into focus as I stiffled a slow and careful smile... sly

 

Before me lay a complete Factory installed Roof Rack with the skinny (aerodynamic) cross members.

 

Yet, my mind dashed into confusion:

 

Would it be through bolted? If it was, would I have to tear out my roof liner to intall this unit :o

 

What anchors were available if I was to use the sheet metal screw method of attachment?

 

If I used sheet metal screws only, how many washboard back road trips would it take before the whole roof unit would end up as nesting material for the next Pathy to run over it...

 

I tore myself away from this scene and cranked up the tunes...

 

Much to my dismay, all I heard from the speakers was:

 

"Up on the roof...up on the rooof...." ;)

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Which Rack Attack did you call? I work in the ones in Toronto or Mississauga every once in a while.

 

As a greedy capitalist lunatic let me offer you some good advice.

 

Don't use sheet metal screws. Use a proper rivnut or plusnut or whatever you can get at your local hardware stores. Just google the two names I just mentioned to see what it its. You should also get a proper tool for installing them.

 

For example I got the said tool with a collection of those threaded inserts for $30 at my local Princess Auto location.

 

You don't have to drop the headliner but make sure you use silicone and paint to properly touch up the holes you will drill out.

 

Use a stopper on your drill bit unless you like to see holes in your headliner.

 

Use a tapping lube.

 

Factory/dealer racks suck big time if you have to actually use them to carry stuff.

 

Thule kicks butt and you don't have to drill any holes to install it.

Edited by Filthy Luker
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Get the Thule 400 system off eBay.. doesn't matter what vehicle it was on, then just get the fit kit (the vehicle specific part) from Thule or it's retailer.

 

You can go onto the Thule website and download instructions for every product that they make in PDF format, including the vehicle specific fit kits to show you how it goes on a given application.

 

WD21 instructions: http://www.thuleracks.com/thule/instructio...06010,%2060.pdf

Edited by Filthy Luker
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Same with a Yakima racks, just figure out what you want and then what it takes to mount to your vehicle. eBay is your friend here too. I bought mine there for half market value at least. And of course, no cutting/drilling/bs/etc. Oh, and they are VERY STRONG, stronger than any factory rack I've ever seen by FAR.

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I understand that the Factory Roof Racks are crap but what makes them so? The Plastic Cross Bar Connectors? I know on the old models Racks the crossmembers are made of plastic or something real weak. On the newer Roof racks, 1996 and up, The bars themselves are made from Aluminum or Steel right? Down in the Parts for Sale section, I'm fully planning on buying that 2003 Factory Roof Rack for my 91, (yes I know it wont fit, but I'll make it) DJ Dank wants the Crossmembers, So I'm just going to buy the Rails and Damper. If I weld on Aluminum or Steel Crossmembers so that they cannot Be taken off, I think that will make the rack significantly stronger then the factory plastic crossmember attachments. In theory anyway. Decent enough to carry a Safari Rack, Spare 33" tire, shovel, axe, Highlift, and other Goodies.... I think. *gulp* Anything more I should know about those R50 style racks that might pose a strength problem? I'm pretty set on using the Nissan Rails and Damper as I think they would look real nice.

 

And by the way, if your refering to the smaller little factory roof racks of the early model Pathfinders, I have one on mine and it sucks a$$. Do yourself a favor and save yourself some money too, Go straight to a Thule or Yakima unless you want to do something retarded like me.

 

Dowser

Edited by Dowser
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On the newer Roof racks, 1996 and up, The bars themselves are made from Aluminum or Steel right?

... my crosser bars are plastic, but my factory roof rack is not the same as that 2003 version you are looking at.

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I'm also about to install a factory roof rack on my 95. I plan to use Jacknuts or Plusnuts. Personally, I think the rack rails are useful for many different set ups, and there is no harm in drilling the holes in the roof if you do a good job. I hear applying masking tape then drilling will keep the paint from chipping badly. :shrug:

 

B

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The main difference between factory and aftermarket racks is that factory racks are designed to look pretty and "aerodynamic" and such with next to no thought put into just how sturdy and functional they have to be. As to plastic end pieces? The entire rack is only as strong as it's weakest component. I have no issues STANDING on a loaded Thule rack and I am at 180lbs or so.

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Which Rack Attack did you call?  I work in the ones in Toronto or Mississauga every once in a while...

 

I called the Vancouver, BC office of Rack Attack. The quote was CDN$700 plus 14% for taxes. What I wanted was the equivalent of a basic rail type factory rack by Thule, installed by Rack Attack. (Nothing added above the cross bars).

 

Opinion: I wonder if this US company realizes that the CDN$ now trades @ 86 cents US? The $700+ price seemed outrageous.

 

BTW: I also asked if they would install the junker roof rack. They declined due to legal concerns. No problem, I would probably do the same, if I was the installer.

 

I agree with you, Thule makes a solid product, I still have the rack from my old Audi which I used to haul a 75 lb electric Mtn bike without problems.

 

Thanks for the install advise, FL

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I called the Vancouver, BC office of Rack Attack. The quote was CDN$700 plus 14% for taxes. What I wanted was the equivalent of a basic rail type factory rack by Thule, installed by Rack Attack. (Nothing added above the cross bars).

 

  Opinion: I wonder if this US company realizes that the CDN$ now trades @ 86 cents US? The $700+ price seemed outrageous.

1. Rack Attack is a 100% Canadian company. It started in Toronto and now it's got locations in US.

 

2. $700 means you wanted a rail system with track install. That's the most expensive type of rack install there is. You can easily get away with spending $150-300 for the Thule 400 system used (clamps around the door wells and retails for under $400 all complete).

 

3. I hear the "BUT I CAN GET IT FOR HALF THE COST IN US" thing all the time. It all boils down to the fact that in Canada you can't purchase stuff directly from Thule (or Yakima) but from a Canadian distributor that's located in Quebec (Sport Dinaco). So retailers here have to pay quite a bit of premium. Distributor has to pay shipping, duty, brokerage fees, whatever, then they have to add their markup then they ship it to retailers (such as Rack Attack) that have to pay for shipping and add their markup. Yes it's expensive I know... on top of that the prices are continuing to raise with the price of steel and gas.

 

Have you ever had anything large and heavy shipped from the States? I had items shipped to me and it actually comes to be almost twice the US Dollar amount at my door. Shipping, duty, brokerage fees, taxes all add up to insane amounts. The difference is that it's all included in the sticker price in Canada.

 

Fun Fact: One of Rack Attack Vancouver's locations (there are 2) in it's former life used to house a massive weed growth operation. :P

Edited by Filthy Luker
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1. Rack Attack is a 100% Canadian company. It started in Toronto and now it's got locations in US.

 

 

 

Thanks for the info FL. The fact that all prices on the CA website are quoted in US$ gave me he impression that it was indeed an American Co.

 

I did get an earlier quote from Rack Attack on a system by Yakima that seemed to do the trick yet it was based on a fixed tower system that was lockable and removable at CDN$400 installed. (Yet, it just did not seem strong enough for off road use).

 

As for the "BUT I CAN GET IT FOR HALF THE COST IN US", well it's true! Yet there are catches. For Example: this year, I bought an open package Compaq laptop at Best Buy in the States. It was a 'steal' at 2/3 the price of what it would have cost me at Best Buy/Futureshop in CA. However there was a catch, NO 90 DAY WARRANTY on a demo going out of the country. I brought it home and bought a 3 year extended warranty @ Futureshop. As it turned out, I was still ahead, yet not as much as intended. I mention this as I wonder what the warranty issues are when auto gear is bought (and possibly installed) in the US and fails in another country like Canada or Mexico. What is Rack Attack's position on this?

 

BTW: Speaking of Rack Attack trivia (I know NUZZZIN' about the Grow-op on 3rd Ave in Vancouver) :P Did you know that there is a Rack Attack in Mount Vernon, WA that claims to have been in business for over 20 years and lays claim to the title of 'you know what'. Nice people. I've had the pleasure to do business with both versions of the same named company.

 

BTW2: Store #2 is in Coquitlam, I cruise by sometimes and chat, yet we Vancouverites get touchy about Coquitlam being a part of Vancouver. We haven't hit mega city status yet (and hopefully will never be) ;)

 

As always, I thank you for your input, FL

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One other Piece of useless knowledge. I used to work for Future Shop in Metrotown, Burnaby, B.C. many years ago, and although Future Shop used to be a Canadian Company, it is currently OWNED by the same people that own Best Buy and Circut City. When all your doing is competing against your other company, boy you really cant lose financially.

 

And $700 bucks. Ouch. thats way more then I'd be willing to spend. Canadian made and Priced or not, I'd sooner go to the local raw materials plant, Get myself some HD Steel and figure out a way to make my own. And I have absolutely NO welding experience. :P

 

Dowser

Edited by Dowser
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If I was you, I would not use srews etc for fixing roof rack, use ali pop rivets.

If you buy the 3/16 blind type, they will pretty much self seal. All you then need do is smear a little natural cure silicon in and around hole before fitting.

 

Thats my 2 cents worth any how.

 

(Just did used these when fitting my new rack last week)

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