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2WD->4WD Conversion


SteeevO
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do the 2WD and 4WD pathys have the same engine?? i though they were the same but i have been seeing signs of it being different...anyone know for sure??...i'm thinking that the VG30E is the 2wd and VG30I is 4wd but what is the difference between the E and the I??

thnx Steven

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I'm pretty darn sure it is the same engine... From what my manual says, all 3.0 V6 bolt in the same... You sure you are not confusing the TBI with the MPI (injection systems) ?

Also, the front crossmember (cradle) is NOT weld in, it is bolt in, at least on the 4x4s. Take a look under yours, it is what the rear of the front skid plate bolts to. I'll bet all you see is bolts also.

I thought you were looking for a 4x4 chassis to go with rather than convert ?

 

B

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yeha i was looking in the service manual and the diff carrier looks like it is a bolt in... so that will make things easier.. but i did find a guy that is selling his pathy only a few miles from here ... i'm going to look at it today.. it's a 4WD i'm still debating on if i should swap bodies or swap for 4WD parts..

 

so the engines are the same.. cool.. i was just wondering.. i really don't know the difference in the engines.. i was just looking on ebay at nissan pathy pats and some engines said they were for 4WD and others wre for 2wd so i was unsure.. but i really diddn't think it mattered.

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  • 2 months later...

the 4wd pathy's have a deeper sump on the oil pan, and i think something else was moved or something, but basically no difference. same block, same heads, same intake system. i just finished putting my headers on so i'll take pictures tonight in class and post on here later. they might gie you a better idea of what to do. good luck bro and i love the enthusiasm and determination you are putting into this! reminds me of myself! i coulda bought another pathy, but instead i dumped 8 grand into mine, got taken for a LONG ride, payed it off, and guess what? no regrets. i love my truck and so far it loves me back (besides the occasional hiccup, but she always recovers) had to name her after an ex girlfriend, jill, cuz she was always there even when things get a little squirly. take it easy man, and i'll get you those pics. hey we should go boarding this winter! my cousin has an apartment in elk grove, so i use that as my pit stop, then hit boreal, bear valley, squaw, etc. :aok:

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i got the other pathy and got the transfer case in and all now just waiting on 2 brackets for the front diff. i had a pair orderd and were on backorder for almost 2 months then they came today... they were wrong.. so now for round 2... we'll see what happens..

 

boarding winter is later so far but mthigh bear and snow summit are open here in so cal mammoth also opened a few weeks ago..

 

can't wait to have 4WD and cant wait till winter

 

-SteeevO

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  • 5 months later...

so i just got over my broken leg, but i have no place to work right now. my dad is in the middle of a divorce and i hate to have to get up and move everything in middle of a paroject.. although i will have to move and engine and a bunch of other old parts.. RAR anways...if i can figure out the fastest way to do this. i could probably get this done at a friends house.

 

ok so the front drivatrain is all together i took it out of another pahty as one piece(the diff, axels, spindls, rotors, hubs, LCA's)

 

so now i want to get this entire thing in as one piece.. what would be the easiest way to get it on with minimal disasembly on the pathy.

 

should i just drop out the torsion bars and take off the current LCA's and raise it in or is there a better way someone can think of?

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Have you even swapped in the transmission and transfercase and welded in the front diff crossmember brackets?

 

You won't be able to get the front drive train in one piece unless you'd have a couple of extra hands to help you carry the parts and bolt them on as you mount the front diff onto the front crossmember. You don't really want to be dragging that @!*% all over the place since it's heavy. Make sure you clean out the bolt threads in the front crossmember since they may be filled with mud and crap. I don't know how much of the front drivetrain you pulled out but if you kept the front diff on the front crossmember it sits on you could just remove your current one and mount that one directly onto it and bolt everything up accordingly.

 

You're going to need to remove the torsion bars since they're atttached to the lower control arms. unless you plan on reusing your lower control arms and just swapping the spindles on.

Edited by Cuong Nguyen
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i have a hydraulic table jack that i will put it on.. and the diff is already mounted on the cross members.. i'm taking out one crossmember and replacing it with the one that has teh diff bolted to it.

 

Yes the tranny and transfercase have been swapped out.. i have been driving it like this for a good 4K mi.

 

i would like to use my LCA's but i didn't know how hard it would be to pull the spindles appart from the axles.. so are they just splines? they just slide out? i guess i'll look at the FSM.

 

so basically the question is, 1)should i take off the torsions and LCA's then raise everything into place or 2)should i take the spindles off and raise in the diff and and angle the axels through where they need to be then attach the spindels on after.

 

i'm going to weld the 2 brackets on for the 2nd cross member after everything is lifted into place that way i can verfiy that where and brackets are and where they should be are the same place.. instead of having them welded and finding out something a tweaked a lil and diddn't match up right.

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The CV shaft ends are splined in the spindles. The CV to front diff is only held on by rust and 5 12mm nuts.

 

If it were me, i'd just separate the spindles since I don't want to remove the the lower control arms....

 

BTW, you're the first to probably do this swap :clap:

Edited by Cuong Nguyen
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thanks guys!

 

so how do i take out the shaft ends from the spindles?

 

they don't just slide out do they? there must be something holding it from just sliding out at it's own free will...

 

i'll also look in the FSM

thanks again

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  • 2 weeks later...

not yet, in two weeks i have a 3 week break from school .. so i'll have time to take a look outside and realize that the sun still shines daily ... i can take a breath and then finish her up!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

uhoh!! look whats NOT in the pathy...

 

 

2wdparts.jpg

 

AW dang look whats finaly currently in place....

 

4wdassembly.jpg

torsion bars need to go back in

and

the bolts just need to be tightended to factory specs.

 

then i very slowly drive it around the corner to get those two brackets welded in place and...WALA 4WD conversion complete.. so yeah i'll be wheel'n within the next few days... if i don't break my frigg'n leg again.

 

oh one question though.. i was putting the rototassembly back on and i couldn't get teh dang snap ring to go back in teh groove on the shaft... it's the snap ring that keeps a few other rings in place.. it's visible after you take the hub off...

 

any help would be greatly appreciated.. if i don't get a reply here i'm going to repost in a separate thread..

Edited by SteeevO
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i have a hyraulic table jack thing i set it on and jacked the whole thing right up into place.. i had to remove one LCA then i rolled it in from the side because the table wasn't short enough/pathy wasn't high enough.

 

i'm going out to tighten everything up to specs right now...then the weld and i'm DONE...

 

CASE: NEARLY Closed

 

EDIT: ha i just realized 88 was telling me how to get more room to get that snap ring on.. .not telling me hoe to get teh idff in.. i'll blame it on the lack of sleep i've had... especillay now.. just finished up field day on the radio

 

thnx 88

Edited by SteeevO
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  • 7 months later...

You still around Steevo? I have a question about the transmission crossmember. The two crossmembers 2wd and 4wd are different along with the driver side mount on the frame. I don't recall you mentioning that issue with your swap. What did you do to fix it? I have a early model 93.

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Just read the entire list of postings here for this topic.

 

Wish I had all that kind of time and money when I was in college to play around with. I got $20.00 a week from home for allowence, worked 20 hrs a week at a drug store for $3.35/hr, painted houses inside and out for extra cash....and car never had more than 1/4 tank of gas in it. When the tranny finally gave out, I had no car for about a year......thank God for bicycles. Bottom line was, school was most important of all....play time would come after graduation.

 

my car was a brown 1975 plymouth valiant 4-door granny car ....sweet huh!

 

later my wife bought a 1990 SE that only needed a few minor things fixed. (this is after I did my time buying and restoring three 1st generation Mazda RX-7's and one was for autocrossing. She didn't want to see me get killed in the pocket rockets.)

 

Not an extreme 4x4 driver here but I tell ya she's never gotten stuck in snow or on ice!

 

1990 to me was a great year for the Pathys. Keeping mine going for as long as possible!

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woah!! i diddn't know this thread was still going!!.. yeah the brackets for the tranny cross members are different. all i did was get a piece of sqaure steel tubing and bolted it in as a spacer for the 4wd tranny cross member..

the other question i got was why not SAS it?...

1. i don't know how to weld

2. diddn't have to time to have the pathy down for that long...(even though the project lasted longer than it should have)

3.i learned alot

4. i diddn't think i'd be hooked on 4 wheeling like i am today.. so... an SAS is in the near future

 

so was it worth it??... i think i learned more jumping into this project than if i would have spent the same amount of money and more time in a classroom ... so yes i think it was worht it ..for me..

 

i've been 4wd for about 8 months now.... and the IFS stuff is gonna come back out for an SAS soon... it's been alota work .. but also alotta learnin'

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