Starting Issues

[gmartin1215]

Hi!

 

I have a 1995 Pathfinder SE with a MT, and I have been having issues with starting it.

It has a new battery.

Sometimes the starter will engage, sometimes I may get one click, and sometimes I get nothing at all when I turn the key. Sometimes jiggling the key helps, or the jiggling the steering column. I think the issue might be in the column somewhere with the key switch but have not done a deep dive, and actually, not sure where to begin there. Anyway, when it does act up, I have to get it rolling and pop the clutch just to start the dang thing. 
One thought I had was to do some kind of push-button hot-wire setup so I can have some way to start it until I can figure out why its not starting with the key. Has anyone done this can of setup and can tell/show how to do it?  This Pathfinder is an old beater so I don't care about security issues by doing this kind of hot-wire bypass. Just need a way to start it without having to roll and pop the clutch.

Hope you can help!

[Slartibartfast]

 

I had a similar issue with mine for a while. I replaced a bunch of stuff (starter, battery, positive cable, inhibitor relay, ignition switch) with little effect. Turned out it was the stupid alarm system. The weird part was, I had already removed the alarm brain and joined the starter wires together at the end of it, so it was the harness itself that was causing problems. I don't know if there was a loose connection somewhere, or if my splice had somehow failed, or if the extra six or seven feet of wire was just dropping more voltage than the circuit could afford to lose. What I do know is that it has not acted up since I got that trash out of there, and unlike the rest of the stuff I'd tried, it didn't cost me anything.

 

The alarm system was installed as an afterthought, so for the most part it connects between existing plugs in the truck's harness. Removing all of it requires removing the driver's seat, kick panel, and carpet edge trim, and the steering column clamshell. The alarm is the square box with the hole in the top, not the rounded one (that's your ABS computer). Follow the harness, undo the plugs, get the alarm harness out of the way, plug the truck's wiring back into itself like it was meant to be without the add-on crap in between. There are a few wires scotchlock'd in, and a couple wires going through the firewall to the hood switch and the alarm siren. Those are bundled with the fog light harness, so make sure you know which wires are which before cutting stuff. The alarm wires have labels printed on them, and AFAIK nothing else in the truck does, so if in doubt, look for that.

 

If you can't be arsed to tear it all apart, take just the clamshell apart (very carefully, the screw posts inside are brittle) and follow the wires from the ignition switch to its plug, and then to the plug just after that one. Undo both plugs, push the alarm harness out of the way, and plug the ignition switch into the main harness like it was supposed to be. The door lock wiring will still run through the alarm brain, but AFAIK it should still work fine.

 

If it still has problems, I would check the ignition switch, clutch switch, inhibitor, battery terminals, all that kind of stuff. If you need help troubleshooting the circuit, there's a diagram on EL-12 of the '95 manual, available free from Nicoclub. Auto and manual are different, but on the same page, so make sure you're looking at the right diagram. Also looks like they drew the battery backwards, so that's fun.

 

Mr. Reverse did a writeup about hooking up a starter relay, so the starter solenoid gets full power even if the signal from the key switch is weak. (The wiring for manual trucks is like this from the factory--IIRC this was just a workaround for the jank way the inhibitor works on the auto trans trucks). I did a similar bodge on a friend's Toyota, and it worked great, until the key switch finished dying and stranded her at the grocery store, and I had to talk her through hotwiring it with a paper clip. We replaced the switch with a pushbutton, which also worked great, until she started it in gear one day and hit the garage wall. So that's something else to keep in mind--there's nothing to stop you from starting it in gear if you bypass the inhibitor by wiring straight to the solenoid.

 

My parts car had a wire from the starter solenoid tied up near the battery (just touch it to the + terminal to crank), which would've made it real easy to run yourself over. Worked, though.

[gmartin1215]

Thanks!
I am not sure if my Pathfinder has an alarm system, unless they all came with it. But will check this out.

 

For a quick fix, I would like to look into doing a hot-wire push button setup, if possible. Does Mr.Reverse's writeup cover that? Assuming that this writeup is on this forum.
Anyway, I would like to know how I can do this, Not sure how on this car, but need to get passed having to roll and pop the clutch. My kid uses this car to get to work, so have to come up with a temporary solution until I have time to look into the other things

[Slartibartfast]

Check the center console by the E brake. If there's a switch with a red LED that says something about sensitivity or mode or whatever, that's for the alarm. Also look in the engine bay, inner fender on the driver's side. Should be a black megaphone looking deal if it's got the alarm. I don't know that they were standard equipment, but they certainly weren't rare.

 

The hot wire should be easy enough, though the starter is a bit of a pain to get to. The starter motor has one big wire (to the battery) and one little wire for the solenoid. Attach a wire to the solenoid in place of the standard wiring (don't remember if it plugs in or bolts on), hook that to battery +, and if the starter is good, that'll make it go. Unhook the battery first! It's easy to arc a wrench between ground and the positive battery cable.

[Jimmie]

I went through all of that on my 95. It turned out to be an $20 dollar ignition switch that was easy to replace.

 

Amazon.com: Well Auto Switch-Ignition Starter Compatible 1987-1995 Pathfinde; 1996 1997 Pickup 1986-1994 Hardbody Pickup (D21); 89-94 Nissan 240SX 48750-01G00 487501G00 US-150 US150 : Automotive

[gmartin1215]

Thanks for the suggestions!!

[gmartin1215]

One thing I have noticed when I turn the key is that I do hear the relay under the dash click, and also the one on the inside of the right fender. This makes me think that the key switch may be working, but something else going on, like the starter. But like I said, sometimes the starter engages.
With the clicking relays, could it still be the key switch? Or maybe bad relays?

[gmartin1215]

Hi, 
Still hoping  I can get an answer to my last question

[gamellott]

I haven't read much into this at all, but based on your description, I would look at the battery cables, grounds, and fusible links coming off of the battery. Those conductors often get corroded and could be a source of experiencing low current to the starter and low voltage to everything else. 

 

I had a bad starter years ago with similar symptoms. That happens after 300Kmiles on it. The brushes were completely worn out and no one sells brushes alone anymore, so I bought a rebuilt one from the local auto parts store. 

 

That's my 2 cents... I don't know about the alarm system at all, so I cannot elaborate.

[Slartibartfast]

I would check the inhibitor relay (the one on the fender). Sounds like it's clicking, but make sure it's got continuity across the contacts when the coil is powered.