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1993 Nissan pathfinder 5 speed 2wd XE-V6 transmission fluid amount


Path1204
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Been doing some research through here and no luck so far on correct specs on the trans oil. The question I have is what is the amount to fill these transmission? From what i read so far is the 4x4 transmission are required to be overfilled from 3.7l to 5.1l I believe from what I read from the forums. I just want some clear of mind and what is the amount for my transmission on my 93 5 speed 2wd v6? Hope to hear from someone soon gonna tackle the transmission fluid soon. 

 

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The TSB is for the 4x4 only. For the 2WD transmission, the '95 WD21 service manual specs 7-5/8 US pints (3.6L).

 

The manual trans fluid level was fixed in '96, so I checked the '97 R50 service manual to see if the 2WD fluid level changed too. It did--but it went down, to 5-1/8 pints, 2.4l. If they were seeing failures like they had with the 4WD transmissions, I assume they would've raised the capacity. I would stick with the 3.6l spec in the WD21 manual.

 

I have not heard of the 2WD transmissions acting up like the 4WD ones do, though to be fair we don't get many of them around here.

 

Make sure you get the right oil! The synchros want GL-4. GL-5 turns them to glitter.

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I had assumed so, because they're both labelled FS5R30A--but having looked at it closer, nope, that's a different critter. Different ratios, different fluid capacity. The 2WD R50 manual transmission appears to be the same one as the 2WD D21 pickup--same ratios, same oil capacity. The 4WD D21 pickup and 2WD or 4WD WD21 Pathfinder share a different set of ratios, and (until the TSB revised it for the 4WD models) the same oil capacity. The 4WD R50 uses the same ratios as the 2WD R50 and D21, but with the revised oil capacity (5.1l) of the 4WD WD21 box--I'm assuming it's the gears from one, in the case of the other.

 

So ignore what I said about the R50 trans, sounds like it's too different from yours to draw conclusions from.

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Did you check this out?

 

https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Pathfinder%2F1993%2FCapacities.pdf

 

Here is a screencap from the 1994 manual, looks the same. The 4wd use a different casing which I would assume makes it take more. You can also measure (roughly) what you drain out of it so you have an idea of how much was in it. If it's lasted this long and isn't doing the whine of death (like my 4wd is lol)...

1cBUIwL.png

Edited by adamzan
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The service manual says 3.6 liters, and the TSB didn't change it for the 2WD. So AFAIK, that is the correct capacity. If it takes something in that ballpark before it starts coming back out, I'd call that good.

 

The service manual is much more useful than the owner's manual. You can get the '90 manual from Cardiagn.com if yours is square-dash, or the '94/'95 from Nicoclub if it's round-dash.

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Thank you all for the info! I was getting so much mixed info from different sources and how this group is primarily 4x4 Nissans. I was doing my best to fine the correct specs but was still having a hard time. The Nissan I just recently got had just receive a water pump replacement as preventive work along with the timing belt. Clutch was done as well along with center support and rear main seal and oil pan leak. it has 128,000 miles and got for $3800. The real concerts I have with this vehicle is OEM or OEM related parts and where to find. Also what upgrades could be done to further make my Pathfinder much more reliable as plan to go on long distance trips.  

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:Aok: Sometimes it takes some digging to find good info on these. Good on you for doing the due diligence to make sure you're doing it properly.

 

Nissanpartsdeal has factory parts and a pretty good lookup for them. For harder-to-find parts, try Amayama or Partsouq. For parts that don't need to be OE, I use Rockauto.

 

Reliability will depend mostly on condition and maintenance. Mine's been pretty reliable despite 260k on the clock, but anything this old will have some age and wear-related issues sooner or later. Addressing the timing belt early was a good move. I would change (or at least check) the various fluids if that hasn't been done yet, check the brakes, check the front wheel bearings, look for play in the front end, do your strut rod bushings, all that kind of stuff. I'm guessing rust isn't a huge concern in Texas, but it wouldn't hurt to clean out the frame (they like to rust over the rear axle) and the floor pan under the rear seats. The exhaust Y pipe under the driver's feet tends to leak and rust out the floor, potentially setting fire to the carpet, so check on that. Also check for leaves behind your blower motor resistor. I glued a piece of metal screen over the HVAC intake to keep leaves and rodents (mostly rodents) out of my vents.

 

I've done some minor reliability mods on mine, mostly to keep the slushbox alive and simplify the four-wheel-drive--things you don't have to worry about. You might look into relaying the headlights. Helps keep the switch alive, hopefully provides a little more power to the bulbs. Just make sure you use good parts for that! I used a cheap fuse holder on my first one, and it left the chat one night without warning.

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