Rear springs that don't sag but don't raise the car too much?

[EricCR]

As most stock R50s, mine sags a lot in the rear. With 2 people on the back and some cargo it basically bottoms out. Simply stepping on the rear bumper drops the whole rear end. I was going to get the ARB EMU 2922 following a recommendation, but even though they advertise 3/4" raise, all reviews I've seen mention at least 2" unladen which is too much as I don't plan to do anything to the front. My plan is to keep it as close to stock height as possible but reduce the sag. I retrofitted headlight projectors and given their sharp cutoff and having no beam angle adjustment, I'm blinding everybody when carrying weight. If I adjust the lights for a loaded car then I see nothing when I'm driving alone.

 

Any suggestions on springs that are similar to stock but a bit stronger? Any thoughts on these: https://www.mevotech.com/part//SMS81115 ?

Edited December 20, 2023 by EricCR

[R50JR]

On 12/20/2023 at 5:40 PM, EricCR said:

As most stock R50s, mine sags a lot in the rear. With 2 people on the back and some cargo it basically bottoms out. Simply stepping on the rear bumper drops the whole rear end. I was going to get the ARB EMU 2922 following a recommendation, but even though they advertise 3/4" raise, all reviews I've seen mention at least 2" unladen which is too much as I don't plan to do anything to the front. My plan is to keep it as close to stock height as possible but reduce the sag. I retrofitted headlight projectors and given their sharp cutoff and having no beam angle adjustment, I'm blinding everybody when carrying weight. If I adjust the lights for a loaded car then I see nothing when I'm driving alone.

 

Any suggestions on springs that are similar to stock but a bit stronger? Any thoughts on these: https://www.mevotech.com/part//SMS81115 ?

 

 

Have a look at this company. You could also search on google for "rubber spring spacer". There might be cheaper but similar products.

 

https://www.superspringsinternational.com/products/

[EricCR]

Great, thanks.

 

Seems like these paired with a new set of springs would be ideal.

[R50JR]

26 minutes ago, EricCR said:

Great, thanks.

 

Seems like these paired with a new set of springs would be ideal.

 

They do seem promising. My tire rubs the rear shock when fully tucked, so this might work like a bump stop to limit flex.

[EricCR]

Watched quite a few videos on those Sumo Springs. Most people who complain install them wrong. There needs to be about a 1" separation with an unloaded car, otherwise it's "I don't need my kidneys" rough. I saw a lot of folks wrongly adding spacers so they made contact.

 

All in all, much more simple than installing airbags and basically makes your stock constant rate springs behave like progressives. I'll get fresh new springs first, try loading the car and if it still drops too much I'll shell out for the Sumos.

 

Thanks, again!

[Slartibartfast]

Fresh springs sounds like a good place to start. I realized recently that what I thought were lift springs in my parts car are actually just the size they're supposed to be. The sagged-out springs in my '93 make them look like lift springs. Gotta get those swapped out one of these days.

 

Those Sumosprings are interesting. Looks like a giant squishy bumpstop.

[cham]

I found myself in the exact same situation as you about a year ago Eric.  I ended up going your initial route with the rear OME MD springs (2922) and it improved so many aspects of the vehicle I never regretted it.  Now I personally kind of like the raked out look combined with the fact that I carry a lot of gear on weekends heading to the mountains it seemed like the perfect solution.  Well I will say after installing the MD springs just in the rear, it was too stink bug looking even for me, I didn't let it stay like that for long.  With likely sagging front springs as well, the disparagement was too much so after a couple months I decided to put MD springs in the front too. 

 

For a while I debated whether to actually do the Light Duty springs over the MD because I liked the raked look.  Well I'm very glad I didn't, so much so I also added the Rocky-Road front trim packer with my MD springs because I wasn't happy with just the MD springs up front.  Even after the springs settle, with just MD in the rear I think it would be too much of a difference.  When people say 2" lift, that's from the sagged out state. It's 0.75" of lift over the stock from the factory height. 

 

I'd recommend actually just going ahead and doing the OME 2922s in the rear for now and when the funds permit go with the matching springs in the front.  You won't regret it and in the meantime the handling of your Pathfinder will feel like new.   Despite what people say, worn out springs also have a huge contributor to body roll and polar moment of inertia.  My guess is if you went with a factory like replacement for example from Moog, you'd wished you had gotten a lift.  

[EricCR]

If only I had read your post a week ago. I already ordered a set of stock height springs from Rockauto (Lesjofors) as well as new Sachs struts since I reckon the old shocks probably didn't like being fully squished so frequently. I'm waiting for that to arrive to see how the car sits afterwards.

 

I really wanted something at most 1" higher, but I was afraid of ending up with an exaggerated raked stance since most people report that the advertised lift is less vs what you end up with. If it still sags after this I'll go for those sumo springs and call it a day. At least I would know the springs and shocks are brand new and it's simply that R50s were always meant to drag their tails.

Edited February 13 by EricCR

[EricCR]

Update:

 

Got the springs and shocks installed (Lesjofors springs, Sachs shocks, stock height) and it raised the rear about 2cm. It went from 82cm (32.3") to 84cm (33"), measured from the floor to the lower edge of the wheel arch. The rear doesn't sag anymore so I'm happy. Time will tell how long it takes for the new springs to get soft and saggy again, but for now everything feels great.

 

Well, not everything as I noticed all the bushings in the trailing arms are shot and the bolts won't budge. That probably explains a few weird clunks. Would it be better to get all the arms new or have poly bushings made for the old ones?

Edited April 2 by EricCR