Another "R50 console swap in a WD21" topic.

[BlueKrogan]

So I saw numerous topics on this, and since I was inspired and an avid coffee drinker while driving, I grabbed an R50 center console from the junkyard; I lucked out on the color too since it matches great with the grey interior.

 

I somewhat know what lies ahead of me (such as moving the handbrake 2" or so towards the driver side) so I have a few questions that I didn't see any answers to, so here it goes:

 

1) Unfortunately, I don't have a manual transmission, (it would've been soooooo easy to just slip the R50's manual shift boot over the shifter) so I grabbed the R50's automatic gear shifter as well, since the WD21's won't sit flush with the trim piece.

 

How hard is it to swap automatic gear shifters? I'm not really comfortable about the idea: if I screw something up, the car will pretty much be immobile. I take it that I'll have to drill new holes to accommodate the new bolt down pattern?

 

I also hear that the wiring is different too, so on the electronic side of things, it isn't plug and play?

 

2) Does the WD21 drivetrain selector shifter handle twist off? I took the R50's because why not lol, but when I tried to take mine off (in order to take the boot off) it wouldn't budge. It is just stuck and caked on due to its age? I'm really afraid that I'll break something if I keep applying pressure.

 

3) I got this weird idea to bolt the rear portion down: since we have to remove the seat belt buckles to make it flush with the floor as possible, what if I drill holes on the bottom of the console which will line up with the holes where the buckles bolt down, and bolt the seat belt buckles through the console itself to the floor? Smart or stupid? 

 

I hear people cutting pseudo slits so it sits flush with the buckles' mounts, but I'm really trash at measuring and cutting

 

4) The mounting bracket where the front of the WD21 console screws in, do I need to drill holes in the R50 console to mount to that bracket? I take it that the mounting bracket should be covered to give me an idea of how far foward the R50 console should be placed.

 

5) I see that the R50 has a 2nd power outlet at the rear of the console where the 2nd set of cup holders are. It's not really a priority for me and I can live without it, but out of curiosity, has anyone actually got it powered up and ready to use?

 

I'm sorry for all the questions and nitpicks, I love this SUV so much and I want everything to look factory/flush as possible, instead of a hack job. Also, if it matters, mine is the curvy dash.

 

 

Edited November 5, 2022 by BlueKrogan
Additional information and questions.

[Slartibartfast]

Obligatory "haven't tried this mod, but..."

 

Unless the gap between the stock shifter and the console is hilariously bad, I would be inclined to come up with some kind of adapter bezel instead. That said, the R50 and WD21 use basically the same slushbox, so the shifter throw at least should be the same. If the cable ends match, the shift interlock is the same, and the electrical diagrams in the service manual match, you could probably make it work. I would be surprised if it was plug-and-play, though. Maybe the plastic cover for the R50 shifter would work with the WD21 innards? I tried to take my shifter apart once and decided to stop before I broke something. IIRC there are two screws on the back of the handle, but either the shift lock mechanism or the overdrive switch wiring was still holding it down, and I couldn't be arsed to take the whole thing out and puzzle it out on the bench.

 

The transfer case shift knob just unscrews, yes. It may need reminding of this. Wrap it in something first so you don't tear it up with the channel locks.

Measuring a curved console against a padded trans tunnel doesn't sound like fun to me either. I would remove the front seats and belt receivers, fit the console where you want it (get your shifter and front mounts sorted first), then trim as needed until the receivers fit again. 

 

You might get away with passing the sleeves on the seat belt bolts though the plastic, so long as the seat belt is still bolted metal-to-metal when you're done. If there isn't enough length on the spacers, either you'll warp/break the plastic when you run the bolts down, or the seat belt bolts won't be seated properly.

 

Hooking up the outlet wouldn't be too hard. You could splice wires into the circuit for the cigarette lighter, or run a separate feed if you're planning to run heavier loads. I ran a separate feed to the outlets on mine because the stock lighter has hilariously tiny wiring, and I wanted to run an inverter.

Sounds like you're going the right way for the look you want. The pictures I've seen of this mod completed looked pretty good. I went a different direction and made a console from scrap steel for mine. It does not look factory (it's hard to disguise a .50-cal ammo can, not that I tried), but it's got cupholders and it doesn't rattle. 

[BlueKrogan]

Can I swap in the R50's tunnel plate?

[Slartibartfast]

I'd be very surprised if the WD21 and R50 floor pans were similar enough for that to work.

[BlueKrogan]

f***, I'm just gonna pull the plug on this project. The automatic transmission shifter alone makes it a pain in the ass to deal with, and there isn't enough info out there on what to do to mount it, along with wiring it up properly.

Edited May 7, 2023 by BlueKrogan

[Xander386]

edit: replied in wrong topic. switched tabs without looking. sorry

Edited May 24, 2023 by Xander386
replied to wrong topic. silly mistake.