BrianD Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 Got in my 98 Pathy the other day and turned the key. It cranks but it won't start. Been lukn on line for an answer but there's so many things it cud be. I pulled the fuel tank access door off from under the rear seat and cleaned it up in preparation for a fuel pump but then thot I wud try adding "fuel" 1st to see if it fired. I removed the rubber intake and sprayed Quick Start Ether into to the intake while cranking it..no fire. I DID replace the distributor bearings a while back an it's been running @ 99% perfect...it had a wee bit of very tiny miss but otherwise fine. I just spent $600 on exhaust and want my baby running again but want to try to solve this at home if possible. Where do I begin? I understand there is No Inertia shut off switch - is that correct? Wud it be the coil inside the distributor? If so, how wud I check it? What's 1st - what's next in order of finding the prolm? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanx in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colinnwn Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 Got in my 98 Pathy the other day and turned the key. It cranks but it won't start. Been lukn on line for an answer but there's so many things it cud be. I pulled the fuel tank access door off from under the rear seat and cleaned it up in preparation for a fuel pump but then thot I wud try adding "fuel" 1st to see if it fired. I removed the rubber intake and sprayed Quick Start Ether into to the intake while cranking it..no fire. I DID replace the distributor bearings a while back an it's been running @ 99% perfect...it had a wee bit of very tiny miss but otherwise fine. I just spent $600 on exhaust and want my baby running again but want to try to solve this at home if possible. Where do I begin? I understand there is No Inertia shut off switch - is that correct? Wud it be the coil inside the distributor? If so, how wud I check it? What's 1st - what's next in order of finding the prolm? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanx in advance. You need 3 things, fuel, spark, and air. Pull a spark plug and see if it's wet and smells of fuel, and sparking. Using a timing light might be easier for spark I'd you have one. But I wouldn't buy one just for this. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted October 3, 2017 Author Share Posted October 3, 2017 Thanx Colin - I'll do that in the morning and see if there's spark coming off the plug. I changed all the plugs, wires, cap & rotor not too long a go. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Take the dizzy cap off and check to see that the rotor turns when you crank it. If it does possibly a distributor issue. If not the timing belt could have broke, though unlikely while sitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted October 3, 2017 Author Share Posted October 3, 2017 UPDATE! Sooooo..I have an update on this prolm using info from the Nissan Service Manual and a buddy of mine who was a mechanic in the past. He called another mechanic while he was here about it..no luck for a solution. I checked: ...(Not necessarily in this order): - for spark by removing a spark plug, grounding it and cranking it - no spark - for power to the dist cap - 15v good. - the crank position sensor by unplugging the plastic multi-connector from the Dist., inserted a paper clip into pin 5 - got -0.75 dcv - the ground in pin 6 of the multi - connector and it was good - the resistance of the coil in the distributor and got .7 ohms - the fuel in the tank - Check - the smell of fuel is strong enuff when cranking the engine with a plug removed. - the rotor while cranking - it IS turning when cranked. - the fuel pump relay - it's good - the ignition fuse - also good. - the cap and rotor for continuity - they are also good - checked for power that feeds the distributor cap - also good. So what am I missing? Still no fire - it's gotta be the distributor right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remus92 Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Sounds like it to me. The only ignition coil you have is also a part of that distributor. I guess i don't know spec for resistance of the coil but having messed with my distributor as much as i have most ignition issues i start by blaming that damn thing. If you have a known good one to test with you would know for sure. If you end up buying one... Do not be cheap! It will not function very long. The oem Nissan parts are better (and more expensive) in this case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted October 3, 2017 Author Share Posted October 3, 2017 Thanx Remus - So I can get this from Nissan ya? or the wreckers? Much appreciated veteran! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remus92 Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 You can try a junkyard one! Of it hasn't been stripped usually those and the maf are the first things to get ripped out. Nissan has them. Last one i bought was 440 though. I think the cheapest you can get it from Nissan will be through Courtesy Nissan. They have a pretty solid online parts store. I tried ones from rock auto and various brands. The best one lasted 6 months. I got the nissan part over a year ago and haven't had any issues since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 WHHHAAAAAAAT!!!!! $440 $$$$$ uh that wud be US dollars! - so once I add our freekn Prime Ministers taxes so we can pay for all those Muslim C*** S** he's letting in, like the little bitch that he is, then it'll be??? $600? sorry over werkd under paid and hadda few beers - While I'm still working to pay for all those welfare sponges. Thanx Remus - good advice - young ppl don't know the value in the advice of older ppl that have been there - done that. I'm glad U told me that. Thanx man..ok calm now. Cheers Ps - been to Texas a few times - loved it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 So everything is good except spark? http://easyautodiagnostics.com/nissan/3.0L-3.3L-3.5L/how-to-test-the-ignition-system-1 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 Thanx One spirit brain - Awesome read - and yep - it's prolly gonna be a new distributor. Thanks for the link!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 Well looky here- I CAN buy the just the coil - $20.00 - I think it might be worth the try for the cost ya? http://www.canadapartsonline.com/search/?N=0&Nf=price6%7CGT+.01%7Cshipping2%7CGT+0&Nr=AND%28universal%3A0%29&Ntk=Main&Ntx=mode+matchallany&Nty=1&PN=0+9224&VN=4294954887+4294964482+4294964923+4294961057+4294966788&universal=0&Nf=price6|GT%20.01|shipping2|GT+0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 Or there's this one ... You save $181! I cannot find that transistor tho. Might have to buy the entire DIST. Sigh* http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Coil-Pack-for-Nissan-Frontier-Pathfinder-Quest-Xterra-Infiniti-QX4-/231338530112?fits=Year%3A1998%7CModel%3APathfinder&hash=item35dcd9d540:g:VvEAAOSw8btZhWdN&vxp=mtr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 I also found this. I am going to order both parts - I'll let U know what results I get. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Control-Module-ICM-For-Villager-QX4-Nissan-Quest-Pathfinder-Xterra-NEW/401300326818?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3D392b979d97304018a377f12458ff6e89%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D231338530112&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Yeah let us know how it works. It would be nice to rebuild our own dizzys if possible Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 I got a used Dist from the wreckers - $209.00 - when I got it home and opened it - the bearings were shot and a bunch of screws were missing, it had a broken plud and was full of rust. I took the coil and Ignition Control module out of it. I installed the coil into the Dist that's already in the engine - no fire. I left the rusty coil in it and installed the ICM and it fired up. I put the original coil back in it and it fired up again. I put the all the parts back into the rusty Dist from the wreckers and I'll return it for a refund...minus the good ICM. I go to test drive it and get a coffee and my right front brake line blew! WHICH BLOWS! Fixin that now. Where's my beer? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 209 dollars for a used distributor? What the fskc? I have a used one out of a 3.3L Xterra (same) that I would have driven to you from Ottawa for that much money lol. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 I returned it to the wreckers this morning but I got the good ignition Control Module out of it first. So Zero $ to fix it. Thanx man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 (edited) haha serves them right for selling used @!*% for as much as a new one costs. What wreckers was it? Edited October 10, 2017 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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