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Pacesetter Header Questions


RCWD21
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Besides the crossover pipe differences between the set for an auto and a manual would it really matter which set I chose to go with? On certain sites they say that the headers for an automatic are short tube and others say that they're long tube and vice versa for the manual transmission. I'd like to get long tube if I could and save about $30 without having to buy gaskets on top of a higher price.

 

Manual transmission headers are 70-1198

Automatic transmission headers are 70-1197

 

I can find a set for an auto with gaskets cheaper than I can a set for a manual. Is there an actual difference between the runners between the 2 sets or is that just something they say to sell more? In the pics I don't see a difference in anything other than the crossover pipe so that's why I ask. Thanks for any help by the way!

Edited by RCWD21
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To be honest the auto ones look like they would fit on either an auto or a manual. I have them. Fit and finish sucks so be prepared to "modify" some stuff. I had to beat and bend the fskc out of my egr tube cause the bung was angled wrong.

 

Mine were long tube.

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Is the crossover pipe the only difference between the two sets? Pacesetter gave me the generic this only fits that response..

 

I planed on getting another egr tube to be able to get around the reworking of the tube, or even use braided stainless and have my dad's friend (professional welder) weld it to the pip to give me some flex in the area, and even then I could have him weld one on in the correct location and go over all the welds to make sure everything is held together correctly.

 

I'm aware of the "issues" these have from the egr bung to the occasional "quarter sized" hole feeding the Y-pipe from the passenger side and then finally to the "heat paint" they ship them with. I assemble chinese scooters and atvs where I work and I'm all too familiar with that black shipping pain that burns off after a while then let's everything get all rusty and corroded, I think there's more smoke than there is actual paint anyways lol

 

Which set did you end up ordering when you had them though?

 

Sent from inside my potato

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Well I mean I could but it's still working so I'd like to keep it if I could. But I'll determine that once I see if the bung is off more than I'd like to mess with, but no I'm not required to pass due to the age of the vehicle. Since its older than a 95 all I have to really pass is a safety inspection

 

My biggest concern is being able to remove the studs and get enough wiggle room to get everything out. The TBI intake is sorta stupidly designed in the aspects of where they placed the egr valve...

 

Sent from inside my potato

Edited by RCWD21
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Is the crossover pipe the only difference between the two sets? Pacesetter gave me the generic this only fits that response..

 

I planed on getting another egr tube to be able to get around the reworking of the tube, or even use braided stainless and have my dad's friend (professional welder) weld it to the pip to give me some flex in the area, and even then I could have him weld one on in the correct location and go over all the welds to make sure everything is held together correctly.

 

I'm aware of the "issues" these have from the egr bung to the occasional "quarter sized" hole feeding the Y-pipe from the passenger side and then finally to the "heat paint" they ship them with. I assemble chinese scooters and atvs where I work and I'm all too familiar with that black shipping pain that burns off after a while then let's everything get all rusty and corroded, I think there's more smoke than there is actual paint anyways lol

 

Which set did you end up ordering when you had them though?

 

Sent from inside my potato

According to my amazon history, I ordered:

 

Does your area require emission test? If not, just delete the egr pipe and valve.

Don't do this. It is there to help emissions. I'm no hippy but if it is working fine, leave it alone. Besides you will have a code if it doesn't work.

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According to my amazon history, I ordered:

 

PaceSetter 70-1197 Black Exhaust Header

 

 

Don't do this. It is there to help emissions. I'm no hippy but if it is working fine, leave it alone. Besides you will have a code if it doesn't work.

Thanks for the part number adamzan.

 

And the only emissions equipment I've removed is the AIV unit by the ignition coil which surprisingly after 30 years doesn't have a spec of rust on it anywhere. It was only removed due to the long tube leading to the cat being damaged

 

Since you've had them on, if you still do, how have the performed over stock?

 

Sent from inside my potato

Edited by RCWD21
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I did notice an increase in power. But before that I had the stock exhaust which was repaired in sections with various spare pieces of pipe I was able to scrounge up.

 

I have 33" tires and it does seem to hold speed easier on the highway.

 

It's amazing what graduating college and getting a real job can do for the budget, lol.

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Don't do this. It is there to help emissions. I'm no hippy but if it is working fine, leave it alone. Besides you will have a code if it doesn't work.

No code. At least on the pre OBDII vehicles. The research I did before deleting mine, most people said deleting gave you a little better milage and power. It does idle better and maybe a little more snap, but that could be because I was expecting it.

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I did notice an increase in power. But before that I had the stock exhaust which was repaired in sections with various spare pieces of pipe I was able to scrounge up.

 

I have 33" tires and it does seem to hold speed easier on the highway.

 

It's amazing what graduating college and getting a real job can do for the budget, lol.

Well I plan on going to 33" tires once the 31" toyos wear out, it might look stupid but there's no need in wasting good tires with full tread.

 

Sent from inside my potato

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