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What should I do next?


PrecisionX
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Cliff notes: 2001 Texas Nissan Pathfinder SE w/LSD 127,000 miles.

 

Know issues:

-stripped wheel stud in front driver side hub

-coolant hose needs to be replaced due to a tiny crack at the end of the hose

-original suspension

-245/75/16 Toyo Open Country AT2

 

Oil change is up to date and the vehicle is generally in great shape and well taken care of. I intend to lift it and want a daily driver friendly but ready for camping/off roading/bad weather/whatever rig. Does the OME kit with springs/struts come as one unit like a coil over or did you have to pay double labor to have it installed because the springs are separate from the rest of the kit? Should I just get OME springs and Bilsteins? What about useful things to have in my truck at all times so I don't end up stranded?

 

Here's the Donkey

 

D638C0CD-CDEF-4700-89A9-9A94DFC4B443_zps

 

D3DAFA48-AD4D-4A0F-A593-EC75E080A2E9_zps

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What you should do next is fix the above mentioned problems. Continue reading this forum and other 4x4 sites to find out what YOU think you should have with you. Those requirements will vary from between regions. Are you talking about mechanical stranded or stranded off road (stuck) or what?

 

 

Sent from my Pathfinder

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What you should do next is fix the above mentioned problems. Continue reading this forum and other 4x4 sites to find out what YOU think you should have with you. Those requirements will vary from between regions. Are you talking about mechanical stranded or stranded off road (stuck) or what?

 

 

Sent from my Pathfinder

Those issues are getting fixed. I'm talking about off road stranded and mechanical stranded. Rescue stuff, straps, hooks, jack recommendations... Those things. What I can do to this that's going to keep me very off road capable without going overboard and making this thing miserable to drive on the street.

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Well...

 

Lift

tires

under protection

Tow Strap

Hi lift Jack

 

 

These are the basics... Then you start going for little extras to make the truck more capable like:

 

Lockers

rack - lights

Steel or aluminum bumpers

winch

etc..

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I've already gotten the tires taken care of and was thinking about mating an OME kit with struts. I know they're not 32s but I needed tires before I could swing the lift. What kind of under protection have people been going with?

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Again, you need to take the time to do you own research. All the info is out there. Don't depend on other people to feed you your answers. This is your vehicle. There isn't a magic list that will make your pathfinder effective of ineffective.

 

 

Sent from my Pathfinder

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I get that, I'm not looking for someone to tell me everything to do I'm just looking for advice. For as many things as there are out there for info there are things that are not. Some people find things necessary and others don't so I'm just looking for opinions

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The OMEs and Bilsteins are both good options, more so on the premium end. The OMEs struts and springs will come separate, and you'll either need to reuse parts from your current strut setup, or buy new (reuse is dependent on vehicle conditions). I'm not sure if anyone offers a "quick strut" that's install ready. But having done the procedure myself several times, rental doing compressors work just fine if you're the DIYer.

 

As for gear, a recovery strap is a good start, at least for someone to tug you out. Sliders and skids offer that extra piece of mind. A lot of other things you might carry just really depends on your terrain.

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I'm a DIYer but I'm in the middle of a New England winter with no garage so as far as the OME install is concerned I'd have a shop do it which I'm not sure how much that will run me or if I'd be better off just getting OME springs and separate struts vs the strut/spring package.

 

The only skids I know of came in a $500 kit. Someone on expedition portal did it but as far as sliders and skids I really don't know where to start. I'm not getting into anything super serious but I also want to cover my tail. I took off my Reese hitch without any problem (didn't want to get rear end fender bendered ending up with a bent frame like my XJ that had a Reese hitch on it) My running boards came off easy too. I'd like lights but there doesn't seem to be many easy options for those without drilling and I don't even know where to begin with electronics, not my forte one bit haha

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Best bet then is to find a local shop and ask around for prices. Of course, if there's no rush, you could wait for warmer weather and make some local acquaintances who might be able to help out for some pizza and beer.

 

Fleurys (Steve), who replied to your post earlier, is having a sale on aluminum skid plates. He also sells lift spacers. I have an older set of his skid plates and they've held up well. Rocky-road.com sells sliders and the OME parts. I have their Super Sliders...they're ok; only thing I don't like is how they mount to the chassis, but otherwise they're solid.

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I'm a DIYer but I'm in the middle of a New England winter with no garage so as far as the OME install is concerned I'd have a shop do it which I'm not sure how much that will run me or if I'd be better off just getting OME springs and separate struts vs the strut/spring package.

 

The only skids I know of came in a $500 kit. Someone on expedition portal did it but as far as sliders and skids I really don't know where to start. I'm not getting into anything super serious but I also want to cover my tail. I took off my Reese hitch without any problem (didn't want to get rear end fender bendered ending up with a bent frame like my XJ that had a Reese hitch on it) My running boards came off easy too. I'd like lights but there doesn't seem to be many easy options for those without drilling and I don't even know where to begin with electronics, not my forte one bit haha

Without a hitch you have no rear recovery point. This is a unibody truck so unlikely a hitch would cause you any problems, I'd personally put that back on.

 

In my opinion armor before lift. I did it the opposite and regret it. A lift will allow you to get places you shouldn't be without under carriage protection. There are options for the front skid, I recommend Fleurys, but for the center 4x4 parts seems to be the only gig around.

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Without a hitch you have no rear recovery point. This is a unibody truck so unlikely a hitch would cause you any problems, I'd personally put that back on.

 

In my opinion armor before lift. I did it the opposite and regret it. A lift will allow you to get places you shouldn't be without under carriage protection. There are options for the front skid, I recommend Fleurys, but for the center 4x4 parts seems to be the only gig around.

Here in South Africa we NEVER use a hitch as a recovery point. Not sure what your ratings and construction is.

 

Here we use the 50mm ball. These things are prone to ripping off there bolts.

 

Becomes a super projectile on the end of a snatch strap. Will go through your windscreen and take you head off.

 

Not sure what your options are on a unibody setup.

 

Just my 2 cents from over the pond.

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

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Slight misunderstanding there. Definitely don't use the tow ball as a recovery point, but using the trailer hitch receiver as a recovery point is better than nothing (and there's nothing there without it).

 

The OP's reason for removing it is a valid one. But I'm with NovaPath about having it vs. not having it.

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Slight misunderstanding there. Definitely don't use the tow ball as a recovery point, but using the trailer hitch receiver as a recovery point is better than nothing (and there's nothing there without it).

 

The OP's reason for removing it is a valid one. But I'm with NovaPath about having it vs. not having it.

Unfortunately I've already given away the hitch but I still think I made the right choice on that one considering I live in Massachusetts, the rear end crash capital of the world (that's probably not a fact) but the amounts of dick heads on the road here is a stunning number.

 

So does this Fleury front skid just bolt in? I checked out some of the slider options including the super slider but it looks like the basic set would work the best if anyone has experience with them. I basically want to toughen up a daily driver R50 without doing anything too wild. I probably won't do lockers but I do want to help keep this thing from getting F'd up if I did get into a mess.

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On my pintel type, I do mild pulls, never a tug.

 

On snatches, I bridel my two 16mm points together to share the load between the two chassis members and pull a safety harness from the pintel to the the snatch strap.

 

Front I also have two 16mm extensions from the chassis that carry my suspension as well. Full cross member welded to across the chassis and further anchored around 150mm deep down the chassis members.

 

But where to attach these type of recovery points to a unibody??

 

Or do you just not EVER get stuck, lol.

 

Here my tow bar and one of the 16mm points.... Excuse my grandson playing under the car, not easy to entertain a ten year old while you are working.

f5980d8ae30b6cc9a11fef2b9cb0ed26.jpg

 

 

 

Has the Pathy got place for mounting bolts to attach something substantial to it.

 

In a mud bog situation, you can easily exert three times your cars weight on those points to get it unstuck. Snatching then adds another vehicle's forces and momentum to that.

 

I'm paranoid and don't believe you are ever strong enough on a recovery point.

 

We had a case here a few years back where a recovery hook came off a cruiser. Ripped out the chassis with bolts and all.

 

Proceeded to come off the recovery strap, fly across to the next obstacle where it virtually amputated a forum members leg where he innocently stood watching the action.

 

It came from behind him, he did not even see it coming. One moment he was standing, the next he had his feet knocked from under him.

 

Hospitalised and eventually lost his job. Took two years to get back to "normal".

Life changing stuff, and I pray I am never part of, or contributor, to something like that.

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

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Hence my question as to whats available and how to attach to a unibody.

 

What do the "professionals" say. Was there an ARB or something available and how do they mount.

 

I love my Nissans, and will do most anything to defend them, but I'm starting to think that the R50 is a softroader, and probably now understand why Nissan did not release it in our country as a 4x4 workhorse like the Hardbody and Patrol.

 

We would probably have broken them here.

 

Please don't think I am disrespecting your ride, quiet the contrary, I would have loved one of those in my driveway. I have always liked the station wagon.

 

Nissan did nothing more than the Terrano2 and Patrol here.

 

Hence an outside company jumping in and purchasing double cab Hardbodies and converting them to the station wagon that I have.

 

But Nissan bought them out and shut the opperation down just before the Terrano2 was released.

 

I think I have one of about 2000 of these MK3 models ever made in the just more than a year they were available.

 

Personally I think you need to seek some professional advise regarding possible load forces and how to attach the kit to the Pathy.

 

Also pretty sure that the aftermarket guys would have something available. I see you guys have strict regulations that you have to comply with.

 

Here we are basically left to our own conscience.

 

 

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So let's state the obvious: every recovery situation presents its own challenges, and all parties need to be fully aware of the situation and their vehicles in order to proceed in the absolute safest manner possible.

 

I'm not dismissing any of the aforementioned scenarios, but I think they complicate the question. Even the safest recovery effort still poses a safety risk.

 

As for recovery points, a stock Pathfinder has none. Zero. Simple as that. But by the same token, neither does a stock Xterra, Hardbody, or probably even a Patrol.

 

The loops at the front are solely for anchoring points. Should they be used for recovery? Probably not. Can they? Possibly, if conditions permit.

 

Is a hitch (again, the receiver, not the ball) a recovery point? Again, no. It's ratings are based solely on towing rolling loads. Can it be used for recovery? Possibly, if conditions permit.

 

Short of an ARB or TJM front bumper, no professionally-made item for an R50 is suitable for recovery. There is no such support. Improvisation and discretion are the best recovery tools at our disposal, but this is not uncommon for any other 4x4.

 

Despite the unibody and strut-based IFS, I don't think this vehicle is any softer than any other Nissan in terms of off-roading. It has the same drivetrain, plus the most-powerful engine option of anything before 2004 (except maybe the VG33ER in few vehicles). It lacks a frame...so what? Call it what you will, but the unibody is the frame. Mine's rated to tow as much as any other Nissan truck/SUV, and way more than any Jeep. And it rides a helluva lot better, too (former Jeep and Frontier owner, btw).

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Me thinks you heard me saying its cr@p, not my intention at all, sorry.

 

Not saying its soft either, just stating that your options for after market additions for the rough and ready "overkill" stuff we like to add, is being limited.

 

Then your vehicle testing every so often puts a further damper on what you can or can not do.

 

I would be very apprehensive to take to your vehicle with a welder, where as my old D21 has spent many hours under a grinder and welder.

 

My concerns is around the limitations of recovery options.

 

You seem to be experienced enough to do things within limits and keep yourself and bystanders safe, the next guy who purchases that vehicle from you one day, may be a total idiot. Gets himself dead with a shackle and half a bumper through his head.

 

I apologise if I offended you

 

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No worries, I'm not offended. I didn't take your comment as saying the Pathfinder is crap. I just don't think it's fair to judge its capabilities just because something isn't available off the shelf.

 

I wouldn't be any more apprehensive welding to a unibody. It's still steel. It needs to be prepped, and it needs to be properly reinforced, just like any other frame. It's a different beast, no doubt, but not taboo.

 

Bottom line is that it's what you make of it. Many guys wheel these hard without these "typical" parts. Some guys live and die by Hi-Lifts...the same guys will probably tell you they've never had to use it, or it's the last thing they'd use. Some guys do it with parts not meant for it! Recovery points are just one thing of many that any wheeler should think about it. Just because they're not on a shelf, doesn't mean we should feel SOL about it.

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Wow! Never intended for my comment to cause such a raucous! That being said, never use a hitch ball as a recovery point for the reasons above. I have a D-Ring receiver that plugs in that I use, and I've also used the front tie down points many times with good success. The point is to do it as safe as possible, I use properly rated nylon straps(not chains) and always have a weight in the middle. Also, whenever possible we do not "snatch" we pull slight tension on the strap before trying to pull the vehicle out. In the end it comes down to knowing your equipment, knowing your vehicle, and having common sense.

 

I do stand by my comment though, without an aftermarket rear bumper, on the R50, a hitch is the ONLY quasi safe place to recover from. I used it along with my D-ring receiver to pull a large box truck out of a snow bank during the blizzard of 2016 here recently, even.

 

There appear to be only a handful of people on this forum that really push these R50's, and I think it is safe to put myself into that category. I've personally had solid luck with the front tie downs and the hitch as a recovery point.

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NEVER under estimate the capabilities of the Nissans. No matter how soft they look.

 

Its usually the driver that is the limiting factor.

 

Seen this many times. Also seen guys do stuff with the Pathy I feel can be classified as abuse, but then I probably can often be classed as an abuser myself.

 

Its all good fun. Mine is my daily drive, so I kinda take good care of it, well I try.

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

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4x4parts.com automotive customizers lift. It is what I run, the strut top out issue is way overblown.

Is that the AC 2" lift? I only have 245/75/16s though and they're brand new. I've heard this kit is a B to install and requires a lot of "oops my trucks is already in pieces but I need this whatever that isn't included"

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