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Should rear upper shock mount have fore-aft play?


NovaPath
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I can't remember what they looked like when I swapped out the OEM for the bilsteins. Should the upper shock be pinched tight in between the mount? Mine can move front and back about 1/2", and i've been chasing a rattle lately that sounds like it is coming from that area exactly. Thinking about just adding some washers and tightening it down, but unsure if it is supposed to be able to float fore and aft....

 

Thanks!

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I can't remember what they looked like when I swapped out the OEM for the bilsteins. Should the upper shock be pinched tight in between the mount? Mine can move front and back about 1/2", and i've been chasing a rattle lately that sounds like it is coming from that area exactly. Thinking about just adding some washers and tightening it down, but unsure if it is supposed to be able to float fore and aft....

 

Thanks!

 

If I'm understanding you correctly, the answer is no. There shouldn't be any movement. But you shouldn't seek to 'pinch' it tight between the mount with washers. Rather your bolt should match the inner diameter of the eyelet, or use a bushing to fill up the eyelet. (you did say fore/aft movement)

 

But if you were referring to it being able to move side to side within the mount, sliding along the bolt...You probably could try to take up that slack with washers, but again, a properly designed bushing would do that for you too.

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I can't remember what they looked like when I swapped out the OEM for the bilsteins. Should the upper shock be pinched tight in between the mount? Mine can move front and back about 1/2", and i've been chasing a rattle lately that sounds like it is coming from that area exactly. Thinking about just adding some washers and tightening it down, but unsure if it is supposed to be able to float fore and aft....

 

Thanks!

 

There should be no movement. It should be pinched tight to the bushings and crush sleeve. A few washers should fix but make sure your mount isn't spread apart. Dodge pick ups are notorious for that if you dont crank down the mounting bolts with a breaker bar.

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Pleased to report, the problem has been fixed. I went to Lowes tonight and bough the appropriate sized washers. I set to work in the parking lot after getting my tool kit out, and promptly pulled the bag of industrial grade zip ties out. From there, i ran a zip tie around each side of the shock. A test drive says this is fixed-permanently. And, if i'm wrong and the zip ties fail(can't possibly happen...), then when I stop being lazy I have the correct sized washers.

 

In my defense, it is flippin cold out, and there is a blizzard coming. I had to make it to the liquor store as well, a man's gotta have priorities.

 

Thanks for the help! In all seriousness even though this is obviously temporary I did it simply to confirm before dismantling. I will most likely wait until they inevitably fail before I install the washers, but for now it is so nice to drive a quiet truck again!

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I'm not quite understanding what you zip tied to fix this? But glad you made it to the liquor store before the storm!

 

 

Sent from my Pathfinder

Edited by CDN_S4
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I'm not quite understanding what you zip tied to fix this? But glad you made it to the liquor store before the storm!

 

 

Sent from my Pathfinder

 

 

I just ran a zip tie around the bolt/spacer on each side of the shock to keep it from moving fore/aft in between the upper mount.

If the two outer "I" are the sides of the mount, and the II is the shock/grommet, I ran a zip tie around the = Not sure if that makes sense. Basement flooded and I got into the blizzard supplies a bit early to make me not care as much :)

 

I=II=I

II

II

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