Canadian Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Hi guys, Im having some trouble with my truck throwing a P0505 IACV code, seems my iacv is seized, so I went to the junkyard and pulled the IACV from the only other 3.5l they had in the yard, and it to seems seized, is there a way to manually power them to ensure operation? Anyways I installed the used part on my truck and the code went away, but my truck wont take to the idle relearn procedure, it idles @ nearly 1600rpm and when I get to the step in the relearn procedure without consult 2 machine where it says to disconnect the brown TPS connector and plug it in within 5 seconds the trucks idle increases even higher to about 2200rpm and it hits some sort of soft rev limiter and just bounces off of that repetitively.As far as I can tell Im doing the test to the letter. TPS is confirmed calibrated, PCV is less than 10k old with new OEM part, truck is warm battery voltage good. So Im almost sure the junkyard IACV may be junk aswell (dunno how long that truck has been in the yard)So Im looking at aftermarket IACV's, and they dont sell them with just the IACV sensor, how come? Why do they all come with the piece of cast it bolts to? Ive never removed my cast piece and always just removed the sensor itself, same with the one I pulled from the yard. Is it needed? Its surely driving up the price.Any recommendation on what to try here? Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 I have no idea if this would work on a Nissan, but I did check an idle air valve on a friend's Chevy once by unbolting the valve from the intake manifold and turning the key on. We then watched the valve go through what I assume was some kind of self-check where it extended and retracted again. If your old one is junk anyway, you might try digging into it to see if it comes apart enough to unseize whatever's jammed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swanicyouth Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 (edited) Just order the aftermarket Hitatchi part. That's what I did a few years ago - problem fixed. They call it a junk yard because it's a yard basically filled with junk. When you order the the part - you will get the aluminum piece as well. They come as an assembly. Of course, your ECU could be fried.... The idle relearning procedure didn't work 100% for me. After you drive it a while - it will relearn the idle on its own. Edited January 1, 2016 by Swanicyouth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wmj259 Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 I am new to this issue, why would the ECU be fried? I am having almost the same problems. Idle was so jumpy, and had my ecu repaired from Module Repair Pro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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