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Wheel Bearing Loose?


ditto17
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Had my 2003 Pathfinder 4X4 in to a dealer for re-call work. One additional issue they found was "left front wheel bearing loose - recommend adjustment" I assume this would be the outer bearing?

I am pretty handy, is this something I can do myself? Any special tools required?

 

Thanks in advance for any input.

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Yes you can, take the hub off, remove the bearing lock nut plate, and then tighten the lock nut until there is no more play. You'll probably only have to turn it like 1/8 -1/2 a turn. You may want to clean and repack the grease while you're in there. As they are serviceable bearings.

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Download a copy of the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section. It'll show you an expanded view and tell you how to adjust the preload.

This is something you can fairly easily with just basic tools and the ability to jack the car up and remove the tire.

Mine is on jack stands right now waiting for me to finish replacing the brake pads, rotors and repacking the wheel bearings...

 

B

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Thanks for the replies. I am going to give it a go.

 

One more question: it appears that I need a special tool to tighten the "wheel bearing lock nut". I am aware that i need to torque it up and then back it off just to make sure the bearing is seated correctly.

 

Question is.....where to I find this tool? Local tool shops have no clue. Is there something else that will work?

 

Thanks again, Cheers

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You know, I've done what the FSM calls for and they kept coming loose. After that just the normal snug plus some, perfect ever since. As far as the tool goes, it is out there. Before I found one I bought a 4-prong socket and cut two off and ground to fit. When a socket can't be had or made, a punch will do. Tap along the edge of the retaining ring to spin it until it's where you want it.

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Yes, the problem I encountered on mine was the retaining bolts (tiny little guys that keep the lock ring in place) kept shearing.

Last time I had to service my wheel bearings I replaced those guys... Had no issues since. Yes, it still gets loose but that is part of it....just not caused by the lock ring backing off...essentially just wear.

I use a punch to tighten up mine, a tool could be made no problem like Kingman said, but a punch works great.

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x3 on the punch, or even an old screwdriver.

I've never had mine come loose though, much less shear the keeper screws!

I do go to snug, and then to the next tightest locking position though (usually, sometimes that can bind), and I always do a hand on wheel check within a week/100 miles, just to be sure.

If the hubs heat up from driving (not braking), umm, they are too tight.

 

B

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Sheering the pin and set screws off is definitely odd... never seen one do that even with looser-than-all-get-out bearings.

Edited by Kingman
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Yes, I thought so too...but it only happened AFTER I went crazy with my torsion bars. I cranked em up and started having issues, now they are slightly higher than stock and hadnt had an issue since...

And a screwdriver works too...

So does the hand spin technique!

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Gentlemen, thanks for your help. Job is completed!

 

Managed to find a "K/D 4WD Spindle Nut Wrench" (model 2487) in the discount tool bin at a local tool store......a mere $9.99!....said it would work for a "Dana 44" (which I heard was a close fit) so with a little work with the bench grinder and it fit pervectly with the wheel bearing lock nut. Torqued it down to ensure it was seated properly and then backed it off to zero, then about 13 ft/lbs of torque. A couple of taps to line up the screws and was good to go. Also replace the two drive belts as they were worn out too.

 

Many thanks for the tips and encouragement!

 

Last task.....I have a leaky drivers side valve cover. To re and re involves taking off the throttle body, etc. so I am told. Can a guy like me pull this one off too?

 

Cheers

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Gentlemen, thanks for your help. Job is completed!

 

Managed to find a "K/D 4WD Spindle Nut Wrench" (model 2487) in the discount tool bin at a local tool store......a mere $9.99!....said it would work for a "Dana 44" (which I heard was a close fit) so with a little work with the bench grinder and it fit pervectly with the wheel bearing lock nut. Torqued it down to ensure it was seated properly and then backed it off to zero, then about 13 ft/lbs of torque. A couple of taps to line up the screws and was good to go. Also replace the two drive belts as they were worn out too.

 

Many thanks for the tips and encouragement!

 

Last task.....I have a leaky drivers side valve cover. To re and re involves taking off the throttle body, etc. so I am told. Can a guy like me pull this one off too?

 

Cheers

 

So, you are a Pervect demon? Robert Asprin? Just random trivia from my cluttered mind...

 

Before you go and remove things, humor me and just try tightening the valve cover screws (bet you they are 1/4-1/2 turn loose). You'll need a long phillips head screw driver, probably 1'+, and a flashlight, but you can get to almost all of them without any real issue. Just tighten them to snug+ and see what you get...

Yes, you could manage it, but lets see if you have to first. ;)

 

Nice score on the tool and good job on the modification/wheel bearing tightening as well. :aok:

Told you it wasn't too hard! Humor me though, and next time you drive 10 miles or so without heavy braking, put your hand on the hub to see how warm it is. Shouldn't be uncomfortable to the touch...

Also, when convenient, jack up that corner, grab the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock and push/pull either side oppositely. You are trying to feel if there is any play (that would be the wheel bearings), and it will be evident if there is.

I'm sure you did a good job, I'm just the cautious type that likes to double check... :shrug:

 

B

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