jjonez Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 Hey guys, hoping to get some quick advice. So a few weeks ago I perhaps foolishly followed the advice of a friend and hosed down my engine bay, only to have the CEL pop up with P0335 for the crankshaft position sensor. I cleaned the wiring harness connectors for the sensor that are at the top of the bay and most likely to get messed up, disconnected/reconnected the battery and this seemed to fix things up. However 5 days later the light comes back on, this time with P0325 for the knock sensor as well as P0335. I haven't noticed any change in performance/weird noises/etc. I feel like it could just be an issue with continuity, but can't be sure. Any advice before I take it to a shop? I feel like it could pricey, especially considering how difficult the crankshaft position sensor is to get at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 Well it sounds like you've got some sensors to change, but both are the hardest to get to. I just changed my clutch and had to remove the crank sensor, it was a pain, but it is doable. But since it was part of the clutch change (since you'll destroy it when you take the Trans out, atleast that's what I'm told) so things like my exhaust, driveshafts, and aftermarket chassis supports were all removed. And the transmission was lowered at the rear to make room for my tools so I could loosens the hard to reach bolts at the top of the Trans. And even then with all of that space, I could still get maybe a 1/4 of a turn on the ten mm bolt that holds the sensor and shield in place. So, like I said it's by no means easy, but it is possible to reach. I have also changed my knock sensor, I didn't relocate it, I changed it and put it back in the correct space on that engine. But that involves pulling the upper intake, fuel rail and lower intake, it took about 4 hours, but it's totally possible. So to wrap up, it's possible to change both on your own if you are mechanically inclined and a patient enough to do the job right. Hope this info helps. Let me know if you have any questions. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Check the connectors again, maybe using a little dielectric grease. Then clear the codes, and see if it comes up again. If it does, clear the codes and run it while wiggling the harness to see if there are any changes. A copy of the FSM is available through the link in a thread pinned in the Garage section, and it will have diagnostic info on these items. Considering the PITA locations of the sensors, verify that they are bad first. Even if you don't change them, you might keep a shop from chasing the wrong thing and costing you more $. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 I did the sensor relocation trick . /https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=nissan+knock+sensor+relocation&ei=UTF-8&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-001 or http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f46/knock-sensor-relocation-how-41704/ this worked out for me, I was able to do the work in a little under an hour. there are many opinions on whether this will lead do engine trouble down the road. I chose to chance it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DejectedNuts Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 I hope for your sake you soldered it and used heat shrink tubing instead of wire nuts! I had a 1997 Maxima with that knock sensor trouble code. My fix was to let the CEL burn out lol. I sold it to my parents at 330,000kms and they gave it away but last I checked it had exceeded 400,000kms (250,000 miles). As I understand it, the knock sensor is only necessary if you get bad fuel. However, it does suck not to have a working CEL so I understand why you would change it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 Just for reference, this is my crappy photo of where the knock sensor is in its stock location, it's designed to detect a knocking engine (go figure, lol) so it's best if it's mounted as close as it can to do its job better. While the relocation is tempting, it's just not my cup of tea. it sits between cylinder 3 and 5 on the left hand side on the base of the block. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjonez Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 Thanks for all the replies. I cleaned the harness again and cleared the code. Now no more check engine light, and no more P0335. I do still have a pending fault for the knock sensor though. I'm kind of ignoring it for now. Should I expect to see any significant changes in performance/mpg? I don't think I'm really noticing anything yet... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 When my knock sensor had legit failed, iwas getting 10 MPG, so yes, you will notice some performance issues with the car. I vaguely remember there being something about how some other problem has a tendency to throw not only it's code, but a knock sensor as well. Can't remember, what exactly it was, a search around the forums would be a wise idea, considering all that's left is the KNOCK CEL. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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