New to NPORA and looking for help!

[Shane4x4]

Hey all, new to this forum but have been on other forums for different vehicles in the past.

 

I've got a 99.5 pathy, 3.3l 4x4 A/T 137k for miles. It's my DD, and currently having problems keeping me from driving it. making getting to work a daily challenge.

 

one night the transmission starting slipping bad in OD, and then in 3rd. the following day i drained the trans fluid and did a filter. Among prior research i came across the TPS problems. tested, only read 2.4v at WOT "replaced" I also cleaned the TB. SINCE then it still shifts odd, kind of slipping into the next gear, catching OD early and staying in it. and the idle speed surges under a light throttle position. I've done a ton of research on all the relearn procedures however all of them i come across do not specify my 99.5 3.3l. and or are for the drive-by-wire TVPS set up "newer"

 

All i really need is the correct relearn procedures for my pathfinder. Since i've cleaned the TB and the TPS.

 

Any and all help is greatly appreciated, Thanks ahead of time all!

[bushnut]

how was the trans fluid when you changed it? It could just be a plain old worn transmission.

[Precise1]

In the Garage section there is a pinned thread with a link for a FSM download. Download 1999 and 2000, and you have yours bracketed. I can only assume the info is there, I do not know it myself.

Have you checked the tranny brain for fault codes? It might tell you something of value...

 

B

 

[Shane4x4]

the tranny fluid was in need of replacing, it was brownish in color. The previous owner i don't think understood PM. prior to the drain and filter it .drove alright, shifted good but definitely shifted somewhat slow. So it wouldn't surprise me if the fluid change is the end all of the transmission as most would say happens. I'll be able to check a few more things along the lines of sensors and voltage/ohms values when i replace my multi-meter in the next few days.

 

Precise1 I will search in that section for a more specific year range and hope for better luck there. Thanks for the advice gentlemen.

[Shane4x4]

My extensive research has left me finding FSM for 01-04, or just 95 itself. neither of which help because the 01+ has drive by wire and all the procedures ask me to listen for the TP motor "which i do not have". Or it's for 95's which to my understanding has OBD1 since OBD2 didn't become in use in the US until 96. However i did get one PCM flash relearn to work which i found odd. Now i have non of the previous codes.

 

What I have done since the last post mechanically is removed both post cats, one had fallen apart inside and rattled like crazy, the other appeared fine. however removed regardless to maintain equal exhaust bank pressure/CFM.

Also the thermal element/fast idle cam was dripping, as i dug into that the outer retaining plate for the cam spring fell into the subframe, therefore it is inoperable until i order a new one. Likely the cause of the low cold start idle.

 

NOW what is happening:

 

-Idles at 500rpm on cold start for 5-10min, then increases to 1000rpm.

-As soon as you select any gear after the cold start and the vehicle has warmed up, it will maintain an idle speed of 1300-1400rpm at 0mph. Doesn't matter what gear you select.

-Still has the surging idle behavior in OD at highway speeds under 10-15% throttle position, what surge has started the slightest increase in throttle position will stop it.

 

Current/ new codes: P0120 throttle/ pedal position sensor circuit A

P0161 O2SH circuit B2S2

P0141 O2SH circuit B1S2

 

*I imagine the O2S codes are do to the high constant idle.

 

I am going to visit the garage I used to work at and use their Identifix and Mitchell programs to dig a little deeper, but if anyone on here can help narrow down a direction to pursue that would be a great deal of help. Thanks in advance!

[Rebelord]

For the 3.3l there is no idle learn.

Having your fast idle cam innop will give you those cold start issues. Also may be cause of your O2 sensors throwing codes. As the ECM ia expecting a higher idle with certain reading but getting otherwise.

As for your high idle in gear. Make sure its fully warmed up. My 99 does pretty much the same until coolant temp reaches nominal 179-185° . Then all is good. Again contributed by your fast idle being broken.

There is a proper link for the FSM for your year.

Surging at light throttle on highway. And fast idle can also be from a vacuum leak. Check everything for if you have a broken vac line. Or cracking intake tube.

 

 

 

Sent from my Moto X

[Shane4x4]

Okay, things i will check next. I monitored my live data driving with my scan tool, the coolant temp hangs at 170, nothing more. So im replacing the thermostat. I also got the proper nissan TPS/Idle switch adjustment after a new one is installed. It is in much further detail than anything i've found online so far. I'm going to check and verify ground to the TPS from the sensor and the PCM as well.

 

Hopefully after all of this i will resolve or determine the problem. Thanks for the advice Rebelord!

[Precise1]

My extensive research has left me finding FSM for 01-04, or just 95 itself. neither of which help because the 01+ has drive by wire and all the procedures ask me to listen for the TP motor "which i do not have". Or it's for 95's which to my understanding has OBD1 since OBD2 didn't become in use in the US until 96. However i did get one PCM flash relearn to work which i found odd. Now i have non of the previous codes.

 

What I have done since the last post mechanically is removed both post cats, one had fallen apart inside and rattled like crazy, the other appeared fine. however removed regardless to maintain equal exhaust bank pressure/CFM.

Also the thermal element/fast idle cam was dripping, as i dug into that the outer retaining plate for the cam spring fell into the subframe, therefore it is inoperable until i order a new one. Likely the cause of the low cold start idle.

 

NOW what is happening:

 

-Idles at 500rpm on cold start for 5-10min, then increases to 1000rpm.

-As soon as you select any gear after the cold start and the vehicle has warmed up, it will maintain an idle speed of 1300-1400rpm at 0mph. Doesn't matter what gear you select.

-Still has the surging idle behavior in OD at highway speeds under 10-15% throttle position, what surge has started the slightest increase in throttle position will stop it.

 

Current/ new codes: P0120 throttle/ pedal position sensor circuit A

P0161 O2SH circuit B2S2

P0141 O2SH circuit B1S2

 

*I imagine the O2S codes are do to the high constant idle.

 

I am going to visit the garage I used to work at and use their Identifix and Mitchell programs to dig a little deeper, but if anyone on here can help narrow down a direction to pursue that would be a great deal of help. Thanks in advance!

What? The first link in the FSM thread pinned in the Garage section takes you here http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/Just download the 2000 version...

You'll want to start at EC-181 for the P0120 code. Your downstream O2 sensors aren't happy because you have no cats.

 

B

[Shane4x4]

UPDATE***

 

I have looked into the TPS diagnostic procedures in the FSM as well as fast idle switch, cam position sensor. Since my last post i've replaced my IAC "first, with no symptom changes." along with my distributor "second, with some symptoms getting better.". IAC was on a whim chasing the surging/ high idle since TPS read accordingly, and the distributor was because i came across online that the shaft bearings like to blow apart commonly on pathfinders. Took inspection cover off and sure enough metal shards and missing 4-5 ball bearings.

 

After replacing the distributor the idle is almost normal in and out of gear, in P or N it idle's at about 600-700rpms and idle rough like a skip. but the shifting has improved along with the surging idle while driving.

 

The surging idle still is present, but not as often. And on first start up when its cold it still stalls unless you give it some throttle for a few seconds then let off. Maybe due to the fast idle cam gear assem. not being functional at the time?

 

Still however have the codes:

 

-P0120 TPS circuit A

-P1490 VC/V bypass/V

- P0161 O2SH circuit B2S2

- P0141 O2SH circuit B1S2

From what i've researched the P1490 will not affect driving or running conditions. It is simply part of a self check for emissions. And Precise1 as far as the O2S I don't think they're unhappy due to lack of cats, i still have the two "assuming they are actually cats" immediately off the exhaust manifold. Where there are pre O2S and post O2S. The cat's i removed were downstream of any O2S. So do you think the reduction in restriction of exhaust gas flow is tripping them?

Really looking for some more insight as i continue this mess. I've exhausted the FSM's and my multimeter just about.

Thanks, Shane.

[Precise1]

 

From what i've researched the P1490 will not affect driving or running conditions. It is simply part of a self check for emissions. And Precise1 as far as the O2S I don't think they're unhappy due to lack of cats, i still have the two "assuming they are actually cats" immediately off the exhaust manifold. Where there are pre O2S and post O2S. The cat's i removed were downstream of any O2S. So do you think the reduction in restriction of exhaust gas flow is tripping them?

Really looking for some more insight as i continue this mess. I've exhausted the FSM's and my multimeter just about.

Thanks, Shane.

I'm a little confused. You say the FSM has been exhausted, but you don't know where the O2 sensors are, much less the 'assumed cats'? Try page FE-10+, it is all pretty clear.

Exhaust into manifolds, past primary O2 sensors, into primary cats, through the down pipes, past the secondary O2 sensors, etc. I'm not sure what you have removed at this point...

 

I haven't dealt with those other codes, so I have little input there.

 

B

[Shane4x4]

I hadn't looked into the FSM for an exhaust diagram simply because what i removed for cats im sure was added to the vehicle prior to my ownership. I have just looked up an exhaust diagram to verify that what i suspected to be a cat right off the exhaust manifold is indeed a cat. With pre and post o2s for those.

 

The two cats i removed were both different lengths and brands, also they were installed after the post o2s with no other o2s after them. I am sure their removal is not affecting anything.

 

leaving the "cat discussion" aside ill just keep digging through the FSM for my answers.

Thanks for the insight and the lead to the FSM. Shane

[fixinto]

My fast idle cam has been disabled for years and it idles fine, starts up chugs a little around 650 to 800 then in 1 to 2 seconds comes on up to 1200 and slowly drops off as it warms up. If you are rocking the 3.3 cable driven there are 2 temp sensors. the one under the intake will cause wonky stuff. also the reset for the tps if it is the one for said engine and they didn't change anything is pretty easy. 2 feeler gauges and an ohm meter. "truck not running" dont quote me because it has been a couple of years but.

Hook the meter leads upto wide open throttle part of the sensor " small alligator clips" will be 3 pins, hook the leads to the top 2. ohms should read pretty low with the throttle closed. Mine read about 19 ohms, was as low as i could get it. "even asked someone to meter theirs to verify 19 was normal" the manual says shorted. /shrug moving on, if it is adjusted correctly u can stick a .012 feeler gauge in between the throttle linkage and the throttle stop bracket and it should still read low ohms, then stick a .016 feeler guage in there and it should read OL or "open leads, over load, whatever you want to call it depending on what type of meter your using" pull the gauge out and the meter should snap back to low ohms. done. if the idle is high or low after that adjust your idle adjustment screw located on the back corner of the intake under the wonky 3 tube canister that its too early in the morning to remember the name of "take care not to knock off the hose that goes to your egr valve, its under the cylinder shaped canister" anyways, its a small round opening and plastic phillips head screwdriver, u will need a thick nubby screw driver to fit into the hole and clear the brake master cylinder. Adjust idle to desired position and walk away. i have a link to a crappy youtube video i made when i had my intake off and did this adjustment with it sitting on my little portable work table one night. fun times for sure.

 

 

hope you get it fixed up and all of that blather may help you some how.

 

Pat

[fixinto]

=)

Edited March 20, 2015 by fixinto