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Fun with cams! help!


Firstgenpathy
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So yesterday I was driving home and lost a lot of power it felt as if I was only running on three cylinders. it would only stay running at over 1500 rpms and even that was rough. it only even out around 2k only in park. so I got it home and and tore into it today. thinking it was timing I tore the front end apart and went to correct the timing mistake i could only guess the previous only did wrong it, was 2-4 teeth off, so further along I went to adjust the left cam and to my surprise it spun. thats not supposed to happen. so i took of the valve cover and the rocker arms and the cam was broke at the first bearing.

 

so... I need to know if this has happened to anyone else and how am I supposed to get the remainder of the cam out.

 

While I am in here is there anything else I should do, The timing belt and tension-er and water pump was recently replaced. and should i replace both cams or just the one?

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I think a compression check should highlight any bent valves you may have. If I were in your shoes and you find you've got several bent valves, I'd immediately start looking for a low mileage JDM engine, do not pass go, do not open the motor, I think it'd be much better off in the long run to just toss another one in there.

 

So you've either got (don't frag me, I taking a stab in the dark here...) $500 - $700 for JDM engine, and labor to swap the motor, which for a mechanic I bet they'd prefer, unbolt and toss the one, put in the new and they're done..Lets say an even $1,000

 

OR you spend on parts to replace the cams (both sides) machine and rebuild both heads, replace head gaskets, basically it's a top motor rebuild, that's a lot of work. And while they're in there, it's also going to be timing belt, front seal, and water pump. Time, parts and labor on that will be equal to, if not greater than an engine swap. Just replacing the timing belt and front seal on my engine cost me $500 and there were no damaged parts to deal with.

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Hell why not, you realize I'm speaking purely from a hypothetical stand point and will probably never do a swap in my life, I don't have the knowledge or resources to do so, but yes, given everything that I've read on here about doing the VG33 swap I think it would make perfect sense.

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You know, unless you want to do the swap just for the hell of it, that's one thing, okay new more powerful motor, that's great....but if you're getting into this because of your current motor needing to be rebuilt, before you go all in on the VG33 you need to atleast verify the status of your existing motor, at this point for all anyone knows, you could possibly get away scott free with just a set of cams, until you get your engine diagnosed, you are totally in the dark. Infact if it's just a set of cams, I think there is a little hotter cam you can use out of a VG30DETT probably, that would really wake up a vg30 and that's a direct drop in and go application!

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Can definitely not use cams from a DE(TT)

 

Oh well, I figured they were close enough in the channels they ride in, figured the lift and duration just a little more extreme. Isn't there another cam option open to us though?

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Nismo European spec, Schneider racing, Jim Wolf, '84-'3/87 300zx cams, and and a few others.

OKAY that is what I was shooting for when I said DETT, I meant 300zx motor, I thought all the twin cam vg motors were a "DE" aren't the cams the same for the n/a as for the twin turbo?
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Yeeesh man. There's the '84-'89 300zx with the same single cam motor VG30E(T) as our Pathfinder then the '90+ 300zx with the VG30DE(TT).

Edited by Kingman
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First I've heard of a camshaft snapping! That sucks.

 

I doubt a compression test will tell you much without a camshaft. Maybe one of the guys who's done the VG33 swap with VG30 cams has a crap VG33 cam they'd sell you cheap for testing purposes.

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[squeak] sits down

 

Lol, uh ok thanks teach! Good info :-D

The DE part stands for dual over head cam. That motor uses one cam for intake and one cam for exhaust with variable valve timing per cylinder head. Our dinosaurs use one cam for both intake and exhaust per head.

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So tore into it today and even though it was a good place to start I can see any visiable valve damage. No areas of contact or anything. Sigh! Time to put it all back together and get a new cam. Here's the pic

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B3u9r81m9OssZm8tTTQ5Ull3WjA/edit

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