Sparrow Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Okay so I had a 95 Pathy that I bought a month or so ago kind of on impulse because it was the first wd21 I had seen in this area in forever, turned out to be a much bigger problem than we had first thought and I had to sell it because with my limited time and recourses there was no way I would be able to fix it. So now I'm looking for a new one. In my area there is a distinct lack of wd21's available, I've found an R50 that I might be able to get at a reasonable price, and shouldn't be terrible to fix up it just basically needs a engine rebuild and it should be back to stock. My thing is, I am emotionally attached to the wd21 model but I'm considering a R50 because they are more readily available. Also almost all of my experience with these trucks is with the wd21, all I know about the R50 is that it went to a unibody design. Can any body tell me what where the major upgrades or downgrades when Nissan released the new model? Also do you think I should bide my time and wait for a first generation to show up (if it ever does) or will another model suit me just fine? Thanks, and sorry for my rambling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 As unofficial rambler-in-chief, no worries Bud! So, what do you plan to use the Pathy for, and what do you plan to do to it? Are you willing to travel to get one? Argueably, the WD21 is a little cheaper and is a bit more versatile with more available options for lifting, exhaust, etc. It is also the body style I favor, finding good ones is getting more difficult though... The R50 is more modern, has more power and OBD2; both being undeniable advantages, but with OBD2 and unibody and less aftermarket support, your mod options are more limited. Still, suspensions lifts via coil springs and spacers are available, even sub frame drops. They have been wheeled enough to prove themselves capable... My wife has a 1999.0 R50 and I'm on my second WD21 so I have a pretty good understanding of both of them. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparrow Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 I won't be using it for anything major, just playing around off road and utility driving since my DD is a car. My problem is no one wants to sell their wd21 and when they do it's a POS. I'm willing to travel a little but haven't been able to find anything within my range for a while. Also being a newer model and probably being more computerized will it be harder to do the work on it myself? And is the towing capability as good as a wd21? What about its crawling ability? And you said an R50 is plenty capable off road? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 An R50 will be fine, and they do drive nicer on the road (ours has heated mirrors and heated leather seats. Quite nice!). Plan on getting some manual locking hubs, and then suspension lift/rims/tires is your choice. I agree, picking up a POS WD21 is no gain. I snatched up a pristine, stock, low mileage one when I ran across it. Most are old and beat. The R50 had more miles when we bought it, but was a deal. $4k for a stock, 90% 1999.0 with 150k on it, smogged and ready to go; only needed tires. The R50 isn't too much more computerized, but has a more complicated exhaust and 4 O2 sensors. The ECU, tranny computer, MAF, TSP, coolant sensors, crank angle sensor, etc are all existent in both from what I have dealt with. With the OBD2, working on them may actually be easier. Our R50 had a stumble some times, the OBD2 reader said 'intermittent misfire, cylinder #1'. Turned to be an injector that failed only when hot, parked and re-started. That was very helpful info to start with, the generic WD21 'injector misfire' would have been a lot harder to track down! The R50 is slightly longer, slightly wider and weighs the same or more with a stronger engine. It tows as well or better than a WD21. Without a lot of work, neither the WD21 nor the R50 is a Krawler. I am not a Krawler, nor have I Krawled either. No comment. And you said an R50 is plenty capable off road? Look around and do a search for R50 photos and videos and you will see. Specifically, search for Pezzy, I'll bet that chicky-poo has taken her R50 places you might not want to try. Here is a primer for you... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/14848-wheeling-ardbeg-on/?hl=video&do=findComment&comment=245257 B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparrow Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Thanks for your help! I'm going to be meeting with the guy first thing tomorrow and if I can talk him down to a reasonable price then I'll be driving it home. I'll keep ya updated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Good luck! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparrow Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 Well I bought it this morning, it's a '97 4x4 with a standard transmission and 180k on the clock. I payed 2k for it and this is how it sits right now, bone stock. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l257/yugupja/IMG_5169_zpsdaeb9fdc.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l257/yugupja/100_1142_zpsbe984c47.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l257/yugupja/100_1140_zps843fb1b0.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l257/yugupja/100_1143_zps7d69e191.jpg First thing that needs to be done is replacing both the U-joints, which I'll be doing monday when the scrap yard opens. Next the CV axle assembly needs to be replaced on both sides, and then find out where the oil is leaking from and get that fixed, at first it looked like it was the rear engine seal was bad but now I'm thinking it's coming from the T-case. I'll be looking deeper into that later today. Unless anything else that's hiding right now shows up then that should bring it back to being fully mechanically sound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Cool, congrats! Not many R50s have a manual tranny, so thats a plus as well! Looks like it still has plenty of life left in it. Our R50 has 175k miles on it and an inlaw has one with 265k, both run flawlessly. When you are chasing that oil leak, tighten down the valve cover screws as well. That is a common source... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Wow, nice buy Bro. It sounds like you've got some work ahead of you but if you're up to it (I wouldn't be, I don't know how to do any of that stuff you mentioned) You're going to have a nice vehicle for years to come. It's straight, looks good, doesn't look like any accidents, interior? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparrow Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Wow, nice buy Bro. It sounds like you've got some work ahead of you but if you're up to it (I wouldn't be, I don't know how to do any of that stuff you mentioned) You're going to have a nice vehicle for years to come. It's straight, looks good, doesn't look like any accidents, interior? Yeah, I've decided to do all my own work to save money and to gain experience but I wouldn't be able to get even half of this stuff done with out my dads know how. And the whole truck is in really good shape, no evidence of any wrecks, clean original title, no week spots in the frame that I can tell. And the interior is clean, only a small rip in the edge of the divers seat. To be honest I think the previous owner just used it as a mall crawler and did pretty routine maintenance up until the oil leak showed up, so it hasn't had a hard life at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 You don't really have a frame (unibody), and there was some sort of strut tower recall you might want to look into if you live in a rust prone area. Also, change the model date in your description, it will help avoid confusion in the future. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparrow Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Whoops I knew that, slip of the tongue (slip of the finger?). And I completely forgot about updating my info, I'll get that fixed in a bit. Thanks for the info about the recall, I'll look into it since I'm on the gulf coast. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparrow Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 Well I found the source of the oil leak, it was the rocker cover like you said so I cleaned all the gunk off of it and backed the screws out a little and reseated 'em nice and tight.... still pouring oil when the vehicles on. So I'm going to be pulling it off tomorrow and replacing the gasket to see if that will make it stop. Right now it looks like it's all coming from the passenger side but common sense tells me to go ahead and replace the other one too but dang it if I don't want to have to pull that intake manifold thingamabob off the top in order to get to driver side one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Yeah, that plenum makes getting to the drivers side a pain. Try replacing the passenger side first (just tighten the drivers side without backing off, you can get to most of them) and see what you get, you might be lucky. If you do have to pull the plenum to replace that side, might as well change the plugs while you are there (if they need it) and maybe clean the butterfly/intake? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparrow Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 Well I pulled the right rocker cover off today and the gasket was in three different pieces. No wonder it was leaking so bad smh. Also I pulled the 1st plug (after a good long soak of first engine degreaser and then pb blaster and that daggum thing is the origional spark plug and after 180k there is literally nothing left. I know what I'm doing tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 I have pulled plugs R50 that I believe were original at 150K and 250K respectively. Both vehicles started and ran fine... Bah, can't seem to find the other one, but I'll post it when I do... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparrow Posted March 25, 2014 Author Share Posted March 25, 2014 Mine starts and runs but by the way that 1st one looked I'm going to feel a whole lot better after I replace 'em tomorrow. I'll uploaded a side by side comparison pic tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Curious as to why you're going to the scrap yard to get u joints? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparrow Posted March 25, 2014 Author Share Posted March 25, 2014 Curious as to why you're going to the scrap yard to get u joints? Well I say scrap yard, we have a place up the road that's an odd mix between a car salvage yard and an auto-zone they sell new stuff, remanufactured stuff, and stuff you rip out of the junk cars yourself. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparrow Posted April 4, 2014 Author Share Posted April 4, 2014 Erg! I need help, I'm replacing the slave cylinder and I cannot get ANY pressure in the clutch pedal. I'm trying to bleed the lines but I can't get anything to happen. Also the line that goes into the slave cylinder and the hole in the screw are not wanting to line up I've gotten it close several times but never spot on. Any suggestions on what I could be doing wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparrow Posted April 4, 2014 Author Share Posted April 4, 2014 Never mind, my dad was able to do it in less than 10 minutes. I spent a freaking hour trying to get it done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 LOL Erg! I need help, I'm replacing the slave cylinder and I cannot get ANY pressure in the clutch pedal. I'm trying to bleed the lines but I can't get anything to happen. Also the line that goes into the slave cylinder and the hole in the screw are not wanting to line up I've gotten it close several times but never spot on. Any suggestions on what I could be doing wrong? How can you expect pressure when the line to the slave cylinder isn't attached? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparrow Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 I had it attached, its just that I was having trouble getting the holes to line up just right. But now that we got that fixed my daggum break lights have come on and they are staying on regardless, I have to disconnect the battery when I turn off the truck 'cause they stay illuminated. Any idea what that could be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparrow Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 Well I found out what was wrong with that one too, a plastic plug on the break pedal snapped off and the deadman's switch opened up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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