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1000 to replace a clutch?


csutke
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So I think that my clutch is taking a crap. It was replaced around 80k miles by the pervious owner I think. It now has 161k on it. So if it was done at 80 it's due again. I took it into a shop, he said that he would like to do a full diag on it, which I'm prob gonna do but he said that the clutch is prob gonna run around $1000. Does this sound reasonable?

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That isn't a deal.

There are no T-bars in the way like the WD21s, and the parts (flywheel-new or resurfaced, pressure plate, clutch plate and throw out bearing) should be about $300-400 depending on what/where you get them. It is a bit of work, but also something he can do in a day easy.

I have a hard time paying $80+/hr for a mechanic as a machinist who never made 1/2 of that, when most of it is just grunt work I can do just as well, if not better. Odds are most of it is done by a helper paid $15/hr anyway...

 

That said, if you do not have a place to work, a weekend free, the tools required and friend to help, you might not have any choice.

I'd get at least another quote, it seems steep to me...

 

B

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Here is info from alldata...

 

1997 Nissan-Datsun Truck Pathfinder SE 4WD V6-3.3L (VG33E)

Vehicle » Transmission and Drivetrain » Clutch » Clutch Disc » Parts Information

Parts Information OEM Part # Price

Clutch Disc

 

Disc

301000W024 $138.00

Labor Information Skill Level Mfg. Warranty Standard

Clutch Disc

 

Replace

Includes: R&I Transmission.

B 7.0 10.2

Note

 

To R&R Flywheel, Add

B 0.0 0.2

 

 

So 10.5hrs x $100(guessing average) is just above $1000

Save for a few thing breaking, that's pretty ballpark. If this is at a shop, the tech only makes around $300 of that. Be nice and bring him a pizza or some beer as a thanks!

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Not beating up the Tech, or trying to argue, but at $30/hr, I don't think a pizza or beer is needed. :blink:

I also doubt it takes 10 hours with access to full shop, tools, lift. I'm sure you can do it much faster than that yourself...

I'm sorry if the shops soak up so much of the money, but all it does is hurt the tech and customer at the same time.

 

I am the guy who brings doughnuts to the shop (the few times I have to go)...

 

B

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Pulling a transmission by yourself, Im guessing for the first time, is defiantly going to be a full weekend job. The flywheel would need to be inspected and machined or replaced if needed. B is right, there are not torsion bars hanging in the way, but getting all the bell housing bolts will be your biggest hurdle. That and having a steady jack or several friends to bring the transmission and transfer case down, then back up(she's a big heavy girl). You can alway try and negotiate the price down if you have been there before, or need other things done.

Edited by 5523Pathfinder
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^ He does know better than I, he does it for a living.

 

It is a bit of work, I'm just saying that if you have the resources and a weekend, you could save yourself 1/2 the $. :shrug:

 

B

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Well I've got a copy of the fsm although I don't feel like this is my league. I know my limitations and this is well past them. So to the shop it goes if and when it needs done.

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I am tackling this tomorrow in my 87 z24 d21. I have done this in my 95 when I did an auto to standard swap. I agree the top bolts are a huge PITA. I used extensions ad a swivel bit to get at these bolts, and honestly with some patience, it's not that bad, but as soon as you start swearing lol take a break. Luckily I have the factory body lift and that gives me 2" of clearance.

 

For difficulty, honestly it's a lot of work, but it's fairly simple. Bolt off bolt on, the most difficult thing I came across was putting back the pivot arm onto the clip (something like that can't remember exactly the proper names) it takes some persuasion and I found that to be the biggest pain even more than the top bolts.

 

About warrenty, my clutch, pressure plate, and bearing are under warrenty from napa. I also bought a torque wrench so I can do everything to spec. Highlighted all the torque specs in the Haynes manual. Including tools, parts and oil. Total cost is just over $300, huge savings.

 

I'd shop around for a better deal, if you have a constant mechanic you keep going to talk him down a bit, make up a lie and say budget will do it for $900 (could back fire tho) or if the shop is empty, make a comment "oh you don't look too busy" they might be more willing to knock it down

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For the top bolts, help makes it easy. Have someone up topguide and hold the socket on the bolt while you crank it out. It makes those top bolts a 10 minute job without any real pain, swearing, etc.

You still need a 6" extension, universal joint and 12-18" extension though, WD21 VG30 anyway.

 

B

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You need to find someone that does mech work on the side or has a small shop, $1K is a joke.

 

For comparison, my guy, swapped the tranny in my sentra, put a new clutch and clutch cable in and charged me $80

 

Of course there is more work involved in a 4wd but he also charged me $530 to swap in my JDM engine in my former pathfinder, change the rear main seal and replace the timing belt.

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A list of friends you need to have:

 

1) electrician

2) plumber

3) mechanic

 

Luckily I'm an electrician and I have a mechanic buddy, anyone want to be my plumber friend :):rofl:

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A list of friends you need to have:

 

1) electrician

2) plumber

3) mechanic

 

Luckily I'm an electrician and I have a mechanic buddy, anyone want to be my plumber friend :):rofl:

We'll I'm an electrician apprentice, so almost there. My dad is an ASE master certified mech ( before you ask why I don't have him do it, he lives on the other side of the state I think, and even though he's my dad he's a bit flakey.) so I'm in your position I need a plumber buddy as we'll :D

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the clutch kit I bought from Rock Auto was about $250.00 if I remember, A friend of mine used to be a used car dealer and the shop he used charged me $250.00, this was 3 years ago and it cost me an additional $50.00 to have the flywheel resurfaced. If you look around I think you can find a better deal.

Edited by vagabond
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