enkrypt3d Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 So since I'm about to pull the trigger on some 16x8 rims and 265/75/16 tires that should fit without a lift - should these tires look ridiculous if I lift the truck with these size tires and wheels? Second issue - I want to get better shocks and that can support a moderate lift... so which bilstein shocks will give me 2-3 lift and what other parts do I need or should I just reindex my torsion bars? I'm undecided....... thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 First off, shocks don't give you lift, but you will need longer ones once lift is obtained (well front you can get away with, rear you will need a little extra length, that is assuming you want a suspension lift and not a body lift). Coils and a torsion bar re-index/crank and possibly some aftermarket UCA's to help with ball joint angle will grant you 2-3" depending on which combination of stuff used (results can vary depending on components sourced). Or you could just get a 2 or 3 inch body lift depending on your hearts desire (or both, suspension and body!) Otherwise B (Precise1) has I believe a 2" bodylift and 31x10.5R15s on his truck seem quite fitting on his truck 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 I know that shocks do not provide lift - but you have to have to have shocks that can allow for the lift which I don't have right now.Can I get 2" by reindexing the OEM torsion bars? And I heard that jeep cherokee springs in the rear to give a 2" lift? I think I dont need a lift with my 265/75/16 tires & 16x8 rims.. but may need to reindex... And which shocks should I get that are SOFT and not unsettle the truck every time I go over a bump and allow for a 2-3 lift in the future? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 And by the way what front bumper is that? Looks sick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Mis-read/understood the shock part of the question then, my fault! 2" is quite possible with a re-index and a crank of the torsion bars, UCAs are upgraded as the ball joints will sit at a strenious angle depending on the amount of crank done and sometimes quite hard to align as well. JGC coils have mixed results, there's a thread on bich ones are optimal (as their were many options on JGCs I believe), some people get 3", some 2"... I got about 3" when I initially put mine on but time and the addition of an external spare tire carrier sagged them about an inch for me Brand dependent I believe a 265/75/R16 is *about* a 31 in height which is a stock optioned size for a wd21. And the bumper on the pictured truck (again, truck belongs to member "Precise1" and is not mine, just anexample of a 2" lift on 31s) is an ARB brand one with modded mounts to fit his bodylift correctly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 Yea I know lets get that other moderator in here and speak up! Lmao I think I'm gonna pull the trigger this weekend on some new wheels and tires and hopefully this shop can crank up those tbars even tho its not sagging as much as it used to be... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Who are you? What do you want? What are you doing on my screen? Yep, my Pathy has a 2" body lift and 2.5" suspension lift with 31" tires. I didn't want to try to sky jack it to fit 33" tires and make it slower with worse mileage. It looks like it sits right to me... I know that shocks do not provide lift - but you have to have to have shocks that can allow for the lift which I don't have right now.Can I get 2" by reindexing the OEM torsion bars? And I heard that jeep cherokee springs in the rear to give a 2" lift? I think I dont need a lift with my 265/75/16 tires & 16x8 rims.. but may need to reindex... And which shocks should I get that are SOFT and not unsettle the truck every time I go over a bump and allow for a 2-3 lift in the future? Yes, you will need longer shocks to allow for full articulation, but you can drive 'normally' with the stock length as well. I recommend you measure from the ground to the body crease at all 4 wheels and write the numbers down somewhere. Do your suspension lift and then re-measure. The difference in height will be how much longer the shocks need to be (only in the back though). I can't recall offhand but there are several threads you can look up that have all the lengths listed. Yes, you can get 2" with the stock bars easily. I did at least that and I have that sick (heavy) front bumper. As Nunya said, it is an ARB bull bar modified to fit my 2" body lift, and yeah, it is pretty solid! 265/75/16 should come out to be 31-31.5" diameter which is stock on some Pathys so no, you shouldn't have to lift to get them to fit. BUT, depending on the width of the rims and the backspacing, there might be some rubbing unless you go a little higher. I can't tell from here... I hear people say good things about the Bilsteins, but there are several good brands out there. One option is to go with the adjustable Ranchos so you can tune them to your preference. Again, there are a few threads that go into great detail about shock options so I suggest you search for them. If you can't find the info, let me know and I'll try... B Damn, that is a good looking Pathy up there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 Haha nice! Should I Go with the 5100 Bilsteins or the 4600's? And I guess I should get all 5 wheels & tires so I have a spare... damn this is getting expensive lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Honestly, I don't know the Bilstiens well enough to recommend which one, I just know that people here have talked favorably about them. And yes, I would get 5 rims/tires. More $, obviously, but I think it is worth it... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 I use Monroe Ford bronco 2 shocks up front with Ford f250 (non HD) shocks in the rear. In the front it allows me to run 1" balljoint spacers with low pro bump stops and still droop right down. Way nicer ride with a 3.5" torsion crank. In the rear the f250 shocks sacrifice only .5" of compression travel while allowing an additional 3" of extension travel to fit the 5.9L v8 JGC springs with straightened pigtails for 3" rear lift after loaded and 33x12.5 spare on the back. Was under 140 for all 4 at the local Lordco, super smooth ride but they flex well.2 years of trail abuse and DD use...no issues yet. They still ride great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 Ok so whats the most cost effective way to get me a 2" suspension lift? Springs in the rear? (which ones?) new torsion bars or just reindex OEM? Would that be enough without causing any issues with the UCA being at a crazy angle or would I have to swap those out too? I'm trying to decide what's better body lift vs suspension lift? Precise1, you have both? So that gives you 4"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 I use Monroe Ford bronco 2 shocks up front with Ford f250 (non HD) shocks in the rear.In the front it allows me to run 1" balljoint spacers with low pro bump stops and still droop right down. Way nicer ride with a 3.5" torsion crank.In the rear the f250 shocks sacrifice only .5" of compression travel while allowing an additional 3" of extension travel to fit the 5.9L v8 JGC springs with straightened pigtails for 3" rear lift after loaded and 33x12.5 spare on the back.Was under 140 for all 4 at the local Lordco, super smooth ride but they flex well.2 years of trail abuse and DD use...no issues yet. They still ride great. I'm not sure what you mean by adding spacers on the ball joints and adding 3.5" torsion crank? wouldn't that be 4.5" in the front??? Wouldn't that put too much stress on the ball joints? And what are 5.9L v8 JGC Springs with straightened pigtails? 4.5" in front and 3" in rear? can you post some pics I'm totally confused... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 http://www.jcwhitney.com/rancho-spacer-kit-rear-quicklift/p2020010.jcwx?filterid=d1686y1995g119j1 would these spacers sit on top of the springs in the rear and if I get new UCA's I'd be done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 The balljoint spacers don't add lift. They increase the gap between the outer balljoints so that it increases your front suspension extension travel. It just keeps the ride smooth after cranking the torsion bars. You can lift the front as high as you want with the stock torsion bars, but there is only so much travel so the higher you crank them the closer they get to their max down travel and your ride gets harsh when there are pits or grooves in the road. You dont need balljoint spaces for a 2" torsion crank, that isn't very much. I'm just letting you know what my setup is. I run 3-4" suspension lift and 3" body lift. For the rear I use JGC springs from the upcountry 5.9L v8 model. They give u 3" rear lift, then I use ford f250 shocks in the rear. Monroe brand. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 You DON'T need upper control arms for a 2" lift. The balljoint angles are still fine at that height. Upper control arms should be used for 3-4 inch front crank as the angles do start to get more severe at those heights. I use stock ucas with 4" torsion bar crank and balljoint spaces for my setup. Just letting u know its unnecessary to buy ucas for a 2" front torsion bar lift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Cheapest and easiest way to a 2" suspension lift. For the front: crank the torsion bars up 2".(free) Buy energy suspension ultra low profile bump stops and install them in the front upper bump stop position (16$) For the rear: Junkyard v8 JGC springs and you have to cut the pigtails off them to fit.(20-30$) Monroe 1995 Ford f250 (non-HD VERSION) rear shocks (70$ for both) This will give you a true 2-2.5" suspension lift for about 120$ and that's front and rear lift included. I started out with exactly that setup so I know it works. Only thing that needs to be modified is the lower rear shock bushing for the pathfinder needs to be swapped into the bottom of the f250 shock or drill out the f250 bushing since the pathfinder uses a thicker lower shock post than the f250. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted July 21, 2013 Author Share Posted July 21, 2013 Cheapest and easiest way to a 2" suspension lift. For the front: crank the torsion bars up 2".(free) Buy energy suspension ultra low profile bump stops and install them in the front upper bump stop position (16$) For the rear: Junkyard v8 JGC springs and you have to cut the pigtails off them to fit.(20-30$) Monroe 1995 Ford f250 (non-HD VERSION) rear shocks (70$ for both) This will give you a true 2-2.5" suspension lift for about 120$ and that's front and rear lift included. I started out with exactly that setup so I know it works. Only thing that needs to be modified is the lower rear shock bushing for the pathfinder needs to be swapped into the bottom of the f250 shock or drill out the f250 bushing since the pathfinder uses a thicker lower shock post than the f250. I'm guessing we're talking about the rear shocks from the JGC? Or are the ones from the front the ones I want? Also I would be going with the bilstein 5100 shocks which will allow for the ~2" lift... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted July 21, 2013 Share Posted July 21, 2013 You use the front JGC coil springs in the rear of the pathfinder. The coils give lift....all the shocks do is stop the springs from bouncing repeatedly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted July 21, 2013 Author Share Posted July 21, 2013 Yes guys I know what the purpose of shocks are for. lol.. I have an Acura NSX with KW V3 Coilovers 15-way compression / rebound adjustable and ride height adjustable.... It's just been a long time since I've ever wanted to RAISE a vehicle and not lower it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted July 22, 2013 Author Share Posted July 22, 2013 what year JGC am I looking for? And how do they need to be modified? (pig tails removed?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 The years are the ZJ chassis which i believe is like 94-99? It's the more modern rounded style grand cherokee that has the v8. I'm pretty sure the older cherokees only had a 4.0 inline 6 engine. If you can find a ZJ with the "upcountry" package , they had a factory 1 inch lift. So you are guaranteed 3+ inches. Regular v8 springs will grant you 2"+ Yes you must cut the pigtails off the one end. Make sure to cut exactly the same amount. Also do it gently with a cut off disc and take breaks. You don't want to get a coil spring too hot or it will lose its heat treatment. Hacksaw is a safe bet but have fun. Lol. I used a cut off disc and took my time and mine are fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 Any chance you have a pic of what you're talking about for the pig tails and why do they need to be cut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heloflyboy Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Where do you live? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 Los Angeles area...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 The pigtails are a section of coil on the end that curls inward and closes off the end diameter of the spring. In short, without removing it, it don't fit! Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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