cvdloc Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Hey guys, first post! So let me give you a preview into my 95 pathfinder and the plans for this beast in the near futureHad this truck for 2 years now, done a bit of everything to it, auto to standard tranny swap to name one. After this summer I plan to completely remove the drive train and throw in a 4bt, with Dana 44 upfront and 60 in the rear, add a 6" lift, 1-2" body for tire clearance. But that's in a couple months...Now my issue is 4wd doesn't engage.. I figured the hubs are just seized.. So I took them apart. I do have photos, can't figure how to upload them yet.. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary so I cleans them up greased them and threw them back on.. Still no 4wd Would there be an outside issue that I could investigate? Front driveshaft locks when engaged but wheels move freely (drove around the block acouple times and still doesnt) make a note I am doing a sas in 4 months but I am planning to go wheeling every weekend I can until then. I have looked into manual hubs and they cost 120$ and takes 2 weeks to ship.Now I don't want to replace auto hubs with manual then figure out its something else, is there a way I can test this? I have an idea of taking the hubs off until you seethe axle and see if that spins with the front driveshaft. Would that work?But the main question, is it worth it? (4 months with this ifs then I'm torching it out) Thanks guys, I hope to hear back from someone soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Put the whole truck on stands, put it 4hi, and spin the rear tires. Make sure the front driveshaft does spin, and listen for the click of the hubs engaging. If one hub is bad neither front wheels will engage, same if a CV axle is bad. Its an open diff thing. If the front driveshaft doesn't spin you're transfer case might be bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Welcome to NPORA !! The axles will spin when in 4wd with out the hubs, but of course the tire won't turn, as you know the locking hub is what locks the axle to the hub causing the wheel to turn when in 4wd. You should be able to take the auto hub off the truck, and looking at the inside you should be able to press the inner gear in so it meshes with the outer gear, if the inner gear won't push in than that is your problem. Also when greasing the hubs too much is not better they only require a light coat of grease to function properly. When engaging 4wd make sure the front tires make a complete revolution or sometimes the hubs won't lock, Usually to test the 4wd I will find some dirt or sand, engage 4wd and do a quick power brake to see if the truck digs down or if just the rear tires want to spin, easy way to tell from inside the truck, I wouldn't go crazy power braking but a quick test will be ok. It is possible that "brake A" and "brake B" are worn, see diagrams below: You can download the Factory Service Manual from the garage section for free, You can upload your pictures to tinypic.com, that is what I use, after uploading you just copy the code on the left side of the page that says " for forums and message boards" and paste it into your post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Hey guys, thanks for the quick reply. i have lifted the truck up and have done those test, I haven't pushed in that sleeve, I just want to be able to isolate the issue, so tonight I am taking the front hubs off, and spin the drive shafts, theoretically the front axles should spin, right? If not, I'm not sure I'll post it here and see what's next. I don't want to mess around with the auto hubs. For 120 I can get a set my manual hubs, easy install and I'm not going to kill myself over the price, even though that ifs is gone in a couple months. If anything is wrong with my theory let me know, otherwise I will post the results! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 And I will test your theory too. Mind aswell while the hubs are off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 (edited) You can take the hubs off and turn the front driveshaft by hand with the transfer case either in 4 high or 4 low and the half shafts should turn, if not there may be a problem with the front axle. If you are replacing the IFS soon anyway, and you are taking the hubs off anyway, might as well clean them again with some brake clean, see if they engage without any grease, you should be able to turn the driveshaft by hand with the 4x4 engaged with the hubs on and the tires should turn. Just as I said make sure you turn the tire a complete revolution before you try to see if the hubs work by turning the driveshaft, you should be able to hear the hub engage. Edited June 18, 2013 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 If you do buy manual hubs, someone here would probably buy them when you're done with them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Well I did my test.. And when I spun the drive shaft only the driver sides output shaft was spinning not the passengers. Now, I am a noob when it comes to axles, especially this ifs crap, now what could be broken? The issue would have to be closer to the front diff beforeit drops down, now dont laugh but could that be a cv joint? how can i check this? plus how expensive is something like this to fix? if its cheap and would provide me with good experience, i would be tempted but otherwise i might hold off and count down the days until i torch this thing out! thanks guys!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 That's normal, its an open diff up front so it'll spin the one with the least resistance. Basically when its up in the air whichever one it chooses, although I guess one wheel should be spinning in one direction and the other in the opposite. Block one wheel from turning and try again, the other side should start spinning. You can see the flanges a few inches away from the pumpkin where the CV axles bolt to it, check for movement at that point. If you see movement at the flanges but not through the rest of the axle, you've got a broken CV joint. If you can only get one side to turn no matter what your differential is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 I ran the test and everything works fine, i got both output shafts to spin. so its the auto hubs that are the issue. i ended up ordering a set of mile markers and should be here in 2 weeks! i will be sure to make an install thread, couldnt find mile marker installation anywhere, only on the warn brand. they couldnt be much different but still, why not take a couple pictures. i would be interested in reselling these in a couple months, mind aswell get some extra coin for the sas/4bt swap, among other things. next on the list, torsion bar crank up! 2 3/4" lower in the front, just got lazy after my tranny swap so its about time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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