Strange Clinking Noise?

[bulletsforringo]

A few days ago I replaced the worn bolts on my driver's side upper link spindle and I have noticed since then there is a clinking noise whenever I hit a bump- It's pretty unsettling. I did an inspection and initially thought it was a problem with the bushings on the stabilizer bar but I am having second thoughts as the sound and "feel" of the noise is feeling more centered around the pedals...like underneath a little to the right- if that makes any sense.

I'd appreciate any guesses, thanks for the help.

[Precise1]

Do you mean the upper control arm mount bolts? (not correcting, just different terminology so I understand) It sounds like perhaps the new bolts are longer and bottomed out so it isn't properly secured, or perhaps not sufficiently torqued?

Replacing those bolts shouldn't affect anything else though so I would start there.

 

Have you checked your tension rod bushing? (lower control arm back to the frame) Those wear hard and will allow metal on metal contact.

Also, try re-torquing the front cross member bolts as well and let us know if it still does it.

 

B

[bulletsforringo]

Thanks for the quick reply Precise1, I purchased my replacement bolts from nissanpartszone.com- I don't believe they were OEM but there was no note stating a difference in length. I compared them to the old bolt and they seemed to be the same (old bolt's threads were stripped though?). I only had one bolt on my upper control arm mount...pretty sure that was the work of the PO, they did some crazy things to my Pathy.

 

Getting the replacement into the hole that had been missing a bolt was very easy however, the other hole was very difficult. I would torque it in most of the way and then it would become loose again. A couple threads on the replacement bolt did get stripped in this process. I sought help from a more experienced mechanic and he ended up using an impact wrench and finishing it up with a tire iron. There weren't any problems initially but I did go wheeling the next day as I was pretty eager and my rig had been out of order for a while. Perhaps this was a novice mistake on my part.

 

I will check the tension rod bushing and re-torque the bolts as you recommended. Thanks for the help!

[adamzan]

I think the mistake was jamming the bolt in with an impact gun without cleaning up the thread with s tap first. Hopefully the new bolt isn't ruined.

[bulletsforringo]

Adamzan,

Yes, that was a mistake- and a novice one at that. I am a beginner mechanic and fixing up my Pathy is my first foray into this kind of thing. I am to understand that I can fix/restore the threads with a tap if I need to? Sorry about the question but I really don't know.

[ahardb0dy]

I wouldn't just re-torque the tension rod nuts you really need to remove the nut and the bushings to check the hole that the tension rod goes through, a lot of times especially on trucks that have the front end cranked up (via the torsion bars) there is considerable wear on the holes, they tend to get oblonged (is that a word??), and if the holes are no longer round it allows the rod to move which can cause a clunking noise.

 

You should consider replacing the tension rod bushings if they are original, Rockauto has a kit from Moog and is what I used in my 94.

 

On my 87 hardbody I used to own, the holes in the tension rod mount were bad and I had plates made and a friend welded them over the existing mount, machine shop punched new holes in the plates (before they were welded on of course) and than re-installed everything.

 

Another thing to check with the tension rods if the holes in the mount are not round any longer there could be wear in the tension rod itself and they would need to be replaced, their are write ups on here as to replacing the bushing cups if they are gone, I did not have them on my hardbody and did not notice any problems by not having them.

 

As far as the upper control arm spindle mounting bolts, you can check with a pry bar to see if there is any play where the UCA bolts to the frame.

 

Another cause for a clunk, and this is normally only found when doing a full lock turn while going up an incline is the steering stops hit the metal on the lower control arm causing a noise, early trucks did not come with plastic covers on the bolt heads but later trucks did, if yours doesn't have the plastic bolt covers or even if it does a little grease on the bolt heads and the metal on the lower control arm will minimize any noise.

 

Also make sure the shocks are tight and the rubber bushings are in there and are in good condition.

 

Download the Factory Service Manual from the garage section if you haven't already, it's free and you will refer to it often,

 

Welcome to NPORA we like to see pics, introduce yourself in the new member section if you haven't already.

Edited June 9, 2013 by ahardb0dy

[Precise1]

Yes, it sounds like the threads were already damaged and a problem, especially if it (partially) stripped the bolt as well. Just to re-inforce, jamming a bolt in and just cranking on it in these scenarios rarely works well or long and often makes it more difficult/costly to repair correctly. Now I honestly believe the issue is your UCA mount bolts and check them right away, it might not be safe to drive if you are missing bolts or they aren't tight.

Re-tapping might not work anymore either, at least with the same size threads. FYI, when 'chasing' a tapped hole to clean up the threads, it is important to use a roll or cold form tap to properly replace the material, not a cut tap. A cut tap might just cut out even more material leaving you with weak, undersized threads and the illusion of proper strength and engagement.

I suspect that at this point they should be drilled over and tapped to a new bolt size, but it shouldn't have to be much larger, or some sort of threaded insert or helicoil be installed. At this point I do not recommend doing it yourself, but watch the repair person to learn.

It is very important that your front tires are properly attached to the truck, and if there are any damaged or misformed threads on the bolts, they are junk so throw them away. Like I said, you might wind up with a totally different pitch anyway so no big loss.

 

I had just copied someone info on all of this, I'll dig it up and repost here...

 

B

 

Here is a start...

As for the stripped out holes, they can be retapped and that would allow you to mount properly without any special set up. One person used helicoils so threadserts or whatever might be an option as well. I really would try that first. Here is some info...

http://www.nissanpat...stripped holes

Edited June 9, 2013 by Precise1
added

[bulletsforringo]

Thanks for all the info Precise, I will have a professional do it. This is definitely something I am learning from. I appreciate all the help everyone has offered.

[Precise1]

You are welcome. That is how I learned 1/2 of what I know, someone took the time to show/explain it to me.

Just passing it along...

 

B

[bulletsforringo]

Alright,

 

I have had the spindle issue fixed and the noise is still present. Just thought I would give an update to keep everything in the open. I will be checking the bushings for the tension rod and the control arms. Will follow up after that!