aley Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 The rack and pinion on my '97 SE is leaking. It's not a huge amount yet, five or six drops in the driveway after sitting overnight, but it's picked up quite a bit over the past couple of months and I don't expect it to stay small. I also just discovered a torn boot on the passenger's side of the rack. Is there any reason I should try to reseal the rack rather than just replace it? My parts store quoted me just short of $300 for a reman rack assembly, complete with inner tie rods, so it's not horribly expensive to replace it. Also, how involved is the removal and replacement of the rack? It's not clear from a cursory inspection how to get the rack off the truck. I'm assuming that the toe-in has to be set after replacing the rack? Any other tricky things? Is this a job that's better left to a shop, or is it something that can reasonably be done in the driveway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Before you begin, be sure to lock your steering wheel so that it can't turn, or else you'll risk breaking your clock spring. Removing the rack should be relatively straightforward. You'll need to remove the splashguard, "H"-shaped brace, the swaybar and the swaybar mounting brackets first. Count and write down the number of exposed threads on the inner tie rod ends so that when you reassemble the new tie rods, your alignment won't be totally messed up. (You'll probably still need an alignment afterwards). Remove the inner tie rods from the tie rod ends. Remove the P/S lines attached to the rack, being sure to catch any fluid that begins to drain from the lines. Remove the bracket holding the P/S line to the subframe. Disconnect the steering linkage from the rack. Remove the 4 bolts holding the rack brackets to the subframe. At this point the rack should be able to pull straight forward out of the subframe. Reinstallation is reverse of removal. You may want to install new steering rack bushings as part of this procedure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Keep a bottle of degreaser handy and don't forget to park on a tarp or, at least have a drop cloth to catch all of the PS fluid. I had a dang mess. Also, I picked my own rack off of a '96 QX for less than $40 (after I brought back the old one for the core ... $10 IIRC?). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aley Posted June 5, 2013 Author Share Posted June 5, 2013 The entire subframe is slimed with oil from the leak, so I imagine I'll start with lots of degreaser. :-) I suppose I'd worry a bit about the longevity of a salvage yard rack, especially the boots. Did you replace the boots on yours? $40 sounds a whole lot better than $300. :-) XPLORx4, thanks for the detailed steps. You make the process sound plenty simple, and probably saved me breaking my clock spring, which I hadn't even considered. :-) Any suggestions on removing the inner tie rod ends? Will a pickle fork work, or will that just damage them? I'm not clear on what the parts guy said about "inner tie rods included," but if I go with the reman rack I guess I'll find out. :-) Are the bushings a dealer-only item? I've seen various other threads where they contribute to sloppiness and cause a clunk when the wheels are turned, so I guess I ought to go ahead and replace them. Thanks, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 I was able to get my steering rack bushings at the dealer for about $13 each. Give em a call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 The entire subframe is slimed with oil from the leak, so I imagine I'll start with lots of degreaser. :-) I suppose I'd worry a bit about the longevity of a salvage yard rack, especially the boots. Did you replace the boots on yours? $40 sounds a whole lot better than $300. :-) I actually got in touch with a member here that "runs the ship" at a Nissan parts counter. His user name is "Alkorahil" He hooked me up with new rack mounts and the other stuff. Chances are, he'll get you Nissan parts cheaper than going to your local Nippo dealership. Any suggestions on removing the inner tie rod ends? Will a pickle fork work, or will that just damage them? I'm not clear on what the parts guy said about "inner tie rods included," but if I go with the reman rack I guess I'll find out. :-) I'm soo trying to be a redneck. I used a small pipe wrench but, I'm sure someone will chime in with the correct tool to use. Are the bushings a dealer-only item? I've seen various other threads where they contribute to sloppiness and cause a clunk when the wheels are turned, so I guess I ought to go ahead and replace them. Again, check with Alkorahil here .. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 (edited) The best tool for this is an inner tie rod tool, such as shown here: http://www.harborfreight.com/inner-tie-rod-removal-set-69619.html Edited June 6, 2013 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 The R50 inner tie rod screws into the rack. It's pretty straightforward if you have the correct tool. There's a slotted washer that you have to bend over the inner tie rod end so that it doesn't loosen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 The best tool for this is an inner tie rod tool, such as shown here: http://www.harborfreight.com/inner-tie-rod-removal-set-69619.html Good heavens! $50 for a special tool or $9 for a chinese pipe wrench. I would get the tool if I planned on being a mechanic though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 You said " I'm sure someone will chime in with the correct tool to use.", so I chimed in! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aley Posted June 7, 2013 Author Share Posted June 7, 2013 Since the remanufactured rack comes with the inner tie rods, I hopefully won't need the correct tool. If they're not installed (or aren't installed correctly) I'll probably make do with a pipe wrench, with rags and duct tape to keep from scarring up the inner tie rod. Thanks to everyone for their insights. I understand a whole lot better now how the entire thing goes together. This is the first truck I've worked on with rack and pinion steering, so it's a new beast to me! Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 It is possible to install the rack with the inners attached. Go that route if you can. You said " I'm sure someone will chime in with the correct tool to use.", so I chimed in! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 It lux like my rack and pinion steering is now leaking on my 98 Pathy - did U get a re manufactured one? If so - where'd U get it? How much $? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 When I replaced mine. I got it from Autozone. 150ish and came with their lifetime warranty. Sent from my Moto X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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