Bluewulf73 Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 So, not sure where my posts are but some of you might remember my posts on the issues I was having re: stalling and stumbling while at idle. Brief recap: Pathy started stumbling and stalling wihle at idle at intersections and red-lights. - Changed Air FIlter - Cleaned MAF - Cleaned TB - add high idle to the stumbling and stalling - Cleaned and lubed the AICV - Changed plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor No change so it is sent to Nissan Canada (stealership for repair) They told me it was the AICV - Changed AICV - Issue still present, high idle is fixed Dealership believes it is either the TPS or some highly unlikely, obscure item inside or under the IM (approximately $1500 fix)- TPS is cheapest so that was next on the list - TPS is changed Get truck back from stealership. No stalling for about five days. Then stumbling but not stalling about once per day, still at idle/intersections. Lately, with the weather warming up stumbling is more pronounced and has stalled about three times in the past two weeks. It stumbles almost to stalling about three times per day while at idle. Engine catches the stumbling and revs to around 2500 rpm then everything normalizes. Throughout this entire ordeal, I have not had the engine light come on one single time. Other symptoms I have noticed: When I fill up it acts up for about half tank then it acts as good as new. - Changed the fuel filter. Did not help I am thinking it is either the fuel pump, or fuel pressure regulator. When the pathy starts stumbling, it feels the same as when a car stumbles as it is running out of fuel. Lately, the car hesitates as well, while accelerating. Something else that makes me wonder...it is getting harder and harder to start the car and the bettery dies pretty quickly (took only 20 minutes for it to die with just some music on) - Battery and starter was changed last year. I am wondering if going through those water crossings fouled up my alternator enough to cause these symptoms. I am getting fed up with this issue as I just spent on new suspension and I can't go too far as I am affraid the car won't start once I am in the boonies... Just wondering if any of you would care to point me in the right direction. I am thinking replacing the fuel pump simply because replacing the fuel pressure regulator would be difficult as I, once again, would have to remove the IM. (replacing the fuel pump should be easier, I think) So, things I could replace that will, hoepfully make a difference: Alternator (upgrade, perhaps?) Fuel pump (found a good used one for $80) fuel pressure regulator (PITA, POS, ) Distributor (i've read somewhere it was the culprit) PCM (I've read elswhere this was found to be the culprit) Any and all comments (other than get rid of it and get something else) are welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Do you get any stumbling under load? Does it mostly happen when the engine is warm? On a cold start all is well but then starts the stumble? Sounds similar to when my distributor went out. 1st: Check your fuel pressure. Making sure the fuel pump and regulator is good to go. How to and what pressures are in the FSM. Pretty easy to follow. To check your distributor. You can take off the cap and rotor. Once off, you should see some screws to take off the internal cover. Take that off carefully. Now you will see the coil and ignition module. You can check all the wires in there for any loose connections, corrosion etc. But, you can also remove the components easily. What I found, was my coil was grounding out to the distributor housing on the bottom. To where just looking at everything assembled up top looked normal. If your fuel pressure is good to go. I would check these components in your distributor. A quick check and Amazon has our distributor for Link: $97 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 I am starting to get stumbling under load. Funny enough, it almost feels like the pathy is climbing a set of stairs. Even when looking at the rev-counter. It climbs, pauses, climbs, pauses, climbs...everytime it pauses, I can feel the hesitation. It happens 99% of the time, when the engine is warm (its happened to me twice where the engine stalled completely when cold) Ok well, I'll take a look at the fuel pressure and the distributor. Thanks for chiming in on this rebelord. I'd heard that the ditributors in these cars are finicky but had only heard of one case where the distributor was the actual culprit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Diagnostics is the hardest part of being a mechanic. We all know if an engine isn't running it is going to be Air, Fuel or Electrical. Work your way through each system, be thorough. I know you'll figure it out. Try not to get frustrated it's only a machine and it doesn't hate you. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 Diagnostics is the hardest part of being a mechanic. We all know if an engine isn't running it is going to be Air, Fuel or Electrical. Work your way through each system, be thorough. I know you'll figure it out. Try not to get frustrated it's only a machine and it doesn't hate you. Thanks bushnut. I don't hate me truck, hate's comin from me other half . Actually, she's taking pretty well. I'll look into the fuel pressure and distributor first and go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 Ok, so opened up my distributor and other than some rusty spots and some signs of water ingress, I see not much wrong here. I've attached some photos. I also wiggled the post to check for excessive play. Nothing excessive found so I checked the connector and seal. The seal is broken (probably how the water got in) but the connector was relatively clean and there is no rust, only a tiny bit of dust. About 2" away from the connector, it appears that the person who installed the kill-switch on the truck, took its signal from the blue wire on the distributor connector. It is soldered but the tape keeping it clean had seen better days so I took a brush to it and re-taped the connection. I also checked the ground leading from the battery ground to the body (immediately after the battery, about 6" off the post) and it had been removed from the body because the battery is taller. Anyway, I attached it to the battery tray in hopes that makes a difference as well. Checked the alternator and, although a bit dirty, there is no excessive build up so I no longer think the brushes inside would be causing the issue (anyone think so?) In any case, I will take a brush and vacuum to it later. Hopefully it makes a difference. After the brief work I did on YoDa, It started more easily ( not counting my eggs yet)..but as I was climbing a hill, it hesitated a couple of times . Anyone think it worth replacing the distributor, judging by what you see above? If not, next thing to check is the fuel pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 In the FSM there is a section on how to test your ignition coil. Check that. Plus the resistor that is on the outside of the distributor. There a section on how to test that. Testing those is how I found mine bad. As once those were wonky I pulled my distributor apart. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 Hmmn. Overlooked that part. THanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 Sounds like your on the right track....water and electricity just don't mix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 So, been looking around for a replacement distributor.(The one on Amazon cannot be delivered to Richmond, or Canada for that matter. So, I've gone looking for replacement distributors in local stores (Lordco, Canadian Tire, NAPA, Vancouver Auto Parts, ETC.) The average price is $350.00. Highest price quoted was $500.00, lowest was $249.00. WTF So went on Ebay and found some (claimed as new) for $80.00 all in all, after taxes and shipping, $114.00 Happy, once again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Ya. Sorry about that. Took for granted that I am in the US. But 114 to Canada isnt bad at all. Hopefully it works out. Oh, make sure you mark everything before you pull the old one. Unless you are planning on re timing it. Which is a PITA to see the timing tab and mark btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qatcool Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 I believe we have the same dilemma, please let us know when you solve the problem. i will look forward Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 Ya. Sorry about that. Took for granted that I am in the US. But 114 to Canada isnt bad at all. Hopefully it works out. Oh, make sure you mark everything before you pull the old one. Unless you are planning on re timing it. Which is a PITA to see the timing tab and mark btw. Yah, no worries. I already researched the snot out of "Distributor Change on R50s". I don't have a timing light andI don't want to have to pay to get the car towed or fixed so yeas, marking everything and photographing is high on the agenda. WHo knows, I might just do a video tutorial again. Time to brush up on my automotive parts-speak. I believe we have the same dilemma, please let us know when you solve the problem. i will look forward Oh, when I find the fix for this problem, I will be posting it. I will be so happy to get rid of this issue, it will be posted for everyone to see, read, hear, etc., etc., etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qatcool Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Yah, no worries. I already researched the snot out of "Distributor Change on R50s". I don't have a timing light andI don't want to have to pay to get the car towed or fixed so yeas, marking everything and photographing is high on the agenda. WHo knows, I might just do a video tutorial again. Time to brush up on my automotive parts-speak. Oh, when I find the fix for this problem, I will be posting it. I will be so happy to get rid of this issue, it will be posted for everyone to see, read, hear, etc., etc., etc. Any luck finding the fix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 25, 2013 Author Share Posted May 25, 2013 NOt yet. It hasn't acted up for a while (until this afternoon) so I have not been able to get any kind of reading I still think its my dist. or fuel pump. My friend seems to think it might be a fouled-up O2 sensor. His reasoning for this is that the Pathy runs very rich while it stumbles and stalls... Still, no codes at all which make this job very confusing. I already ordered my replacement Dist. and will pick up a replacement fuel pump soon too. Both are things I can easily replace at home. I am going to do one at a time so I can get definitive answers. I'll post up once parts are changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 If you need a timing light I bought one for around 10 dollars at princess auto. If you have one nearby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 25, 2013 Author Share Posted May 25, 2013 If you need a timing light I bought one for around 10 dollars at princess auto. If you have one nearby. We have a Princess auto around 45 min. away from me. I might just wander over, fall in the store and come out with a timing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHAOSMARINE Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 This sounds like a problem I have also. Replaced distributor, plugs and wires, nothing, still happens. I live in an emissions free city so I cleaned out my catalytic converters, still happens but it has more power until she decides to stumble and stall. I'm thinking it is a fuel related problem also. It has the original fuel filter, most parts on it are still factory, so I'm hopefully taking care of that problem at the same time I get my valve cover gaskets replaced. One thing I don't understand is if it is a fuel problem wouldn't it be harder to start or stumble and stall shortly after starting? It NEVER happens to me until its warmed up and especially on hotter days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 27, 2013 Author Share Posted May 27, 2013 (edited) This sounds like a problem I have also. Replaced distributor, plugs and wires, nothing, still happens. I live in an emissions free city so I cleaned out my catalytic converters, still happens but it has more power until she decides to stumble and stall. I'm thinking it is a fuel related problem also. It has the original fuel filter, most parts on it are still factory, so I'm hopefully taking care of that problem at the same time I get my valve cover gaskets replaced. One thing I don't understand is if it is a fuel problem wouldn't it be harder to start or stumble and stall shortly after starting? It NEVER happens to me until its warmed up and especially on hotter days. Maybe the issue is caused by the pump warming up and that is when it starts acting up...otherwise it could be the O2 sensors as it only happens when they are supposed to be at normal operating temperature... Anyway, I just got my distributor and I have a course of action that I'm sticking to. I am going to replace the distributor first, then the fuel pump and then the O2 sensors. If that does not work well, the last two things to replace are the MAF sensor ($$$$) and the fuel pressure regulator ($$$$ or long hours taking the IM off...again just to change the FPR.) I want to keep this truck and I guess that replacing parts that are 15 years old is not that bad a thing. If anything, I will, hopefully get another 10-15 years out of it. Still cheaper than buying a new car... I'll see if I can do this on-by Friday n I'll post. Really friggin busy @ work this week. Edited May 27, 2013 by Bluewulf73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHAOSMARINE Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 I will definitely be keeping an eye out for how it goes for you. I dont have the dineros to do anything right now. Just spent a ton on sending my wife to a convention in July and our 10 yr anniversary is in November. I thought about the O2 sensor but figured a fuel issue. I am not mechanically inclined at all so it's all a guessing game for me. I know a mechanic I'm going to call and take it to his shop for him to diagnose, we'll see how that goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qatcool Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 HI i am also keeping an eye on it goes, and i am also not mechanically inclined. just a question how many O2 sensors does are R50 has and the location. may be I can DIY this thing. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qatcool Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Maybe the issue is caused by the pump warming up and that is when it starts acting up...otherwise it could be the O2 sensors as it only happens when they are supposed to be at normal operating temperature... Anyway, I just got my distributor and I have a course of action that I'm sticking to. I am going to replace the distributor first, then the fuel pump and then the O2 sensors. If that does not work well, the last two things to replace are the MAF sensor ($$$$) and the fuel pressure regulator ($$$$ or long hours taking the IM off...again just to change the FPR.) I want to keep this truck and I guess that replacing parts that are 15 years old is not that bad a thing. If anything, I will, hopefully get another 10-15 years out of it. Still cheaper than buying a new car... I'll see if I can do this on-by Friday n I'll post. Really friggin busy @ work this week. I have read somewhere here that they used a MAF from nissan Maxima, although the engine is VQ, can we use the same in our VG. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 28, 2013 Author Share Posted May 28, 2013 (edited) I have read somewhere here that they used a MAF from nissan Maxima, although the engine is VQ, can we use the same in our VG. Thanks I think what you are referring to is this. MAF FIX It seems to work on the VQ engines. I did not find anything for the VG33. I am just going to try and get one from a wrecker (unless they ask for stupid $$) then I'll look into alternatives. Maybe someone else can chime in if they have actually done a maxima VQ MAF to VG33 swap. Edited May 28, 2013 by Bluewulf73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 If you can get one from a wrecking yard for el cheapo. Then worth a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 If you can get one from a wrecking yard for el cheapo. Then worth a shot. It would be nice...problem is that wreckers here gouge everyone on everything... Set of flares for my 98, without hardware...$100/flare...used, off a wreck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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