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88 Pathy 3 link front. 63" chevy rear


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Well got a little update. Got everything filled back up with fluid last night and took her for a little test spin. Have some pretty bad vibration going on. I kinda figured it would but was hoping to get lucky. I just cheated over to much on my intermediate shaft. I am going to redesign the crossmember and put the case at more of a 45 degree angle to bring my angles closer to centerline. On a good note, the patch panels sealed up nicely.

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Thanks man! This way is definatley way more in depth than crawler gears or buying an adapter and running an atlas or D300. I love doing this kinda stuff plus i couldnt drop $3K on an atlas setup. It should do very well when i get the vibes straightened out.

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Thanks man. So i have a small dilemma. I am re-doing the crossmember and clocking the tcase to about 30*. I now have the output of the factory tcase and input of the 720 case in line with eath other. I angled the 720 case the same as the factory angle of the driveline. I am trying to find a happy medium. Like it is now, the rear shaft still has an offset of about 3", which induces a compound angle. How much offset is ok? Also, the bottom of the skid will be roughly 3" below the frame rails, which i do not like, but i believe i will have to deal with it. There is just no way to align the intermediate and rear shafts without the case hanging down. Guess this is the biggest issue with trying to do this setup, getting all the angles to like each other and at the same time not hang down like a stump below the frame rail. I have read everything i can find about driveshaft geometry and angles and blah blah blah. Should i try running single joints on both ends of the rear shaft and get rid of the double cardan? Should i run multiple double cardans? Stick with the one i have now? Any insight? Thanks in advance.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I believe I got it worked out. I had my local driveshaft shop remove the double cardan joint and yoke and install a standard tube yoke. Got it mounted back up this evening and took her for a test run. No vibes up to 65. Now I just have to build a front shaft and we will be back in business.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Few pics of the new crossmember and setup. Still have to plate the bottom and make a cable shifter. I drove it a good bit over the weekend. I still have a small vibration right when i take off, but thats as good as it is going to get. With this setup, it is not possible to get all the angles to play nice with each other. Also got my new tires mounted.

 

tcase57.jpg

 

tcase56.jpg

 

tcase58.jpg

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Thanks man! I believe I'm going to can the 720 setup. I just don't like it. It works but you will never get it prefect with all the angles. I drive alot on the road and don't like vibes. Plus I hate how it sits below the frame. I've been researching with my machinist buddy at work and we have an idea on a tx10 to tx10. If you don't mind the vibes and stay mostly on the trails, the 720 setup would be fine. I can't handle things not being right!

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Wrapping up the dual tx10's. It was a little more in depth than i thought, but should work great. The big thing was getting the 2-4 shift rod cut down to the right length to where it would bottom out on the adapter plate when shifted to 4 high. All i have left to do now is cut down the output shaft, seal all the cases up, mount it, and build an extra crossmember, which will be easy now by using the factory mount located on the auto tail housing. Also have to adapt the additional shifter. Pics

 

adapter10.jpg

 

adapter9.jpg

 

adapter8.jpg

 

adapter11.jpg

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Looks awesome.

 

But I'm not clear on exactly what was done (I didn't see in anything in earlier posts to this thread, unless I missed a section altogether:).

 

There is a custom mounting plate and another (partial) part of another casing that is between the 2 TX10's? Is that correct? What is the other casing from? What did you use for shafts etc to connect the 2 cases?

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Thanks guys. The partial case in the middle is acting as a spacer. It is a pathfinder automatic transmission tail housing which allowed it to bolt directly to the rear factory tx10. The factory output shaft is splined the same as the female input. That is how they are connected. I cut about 1 5/8" off the output shaft, which left enough to slip into the female input and close the gap up (see pics above).

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Thanks guys. The partial case in the middle is acting as a spacer. It is a pathfinder automatic transmission tail housing which allowed it to bolt directly to the rear factory tx10. The factory output shaft is splined the same as the female input. That is how they are connected. I cut about 1 5/8" off the output shaft, which left enough to slip into the female input and close the gap up (see pics above).

 

It this correct?

 

The 1st section is the TX10 reduction casing and 1/2 of the casing for the front out put shaft.

 

The 2nd section is a combination of a custom adapter plate which the tail housing from a Nissan automatic trans is mounted.

 

Then the TX10 transfer case is mounted to the automatic trans tail housing. The main shaft from the reduction section (which is the TX10 main shaft) is shorten 1 5/8" and this slips into the female input shaft of the TX10 transfer case.

 

Pretty innovative. How long is this from the end of the transmission to the end of the output shaft in the TX10?

 

What would really be great is a shorten shaft for the reduction section, and the custom mounting plate could be drilled o accept the front of the TX10 directly.

 

How strong are the TX10's. I retained my TX10 after swapping in the LT1 and haven't really tested it to see how well it will hold up to the hp and torque from the LT1.

 

I'm considering a flipped Dana 300, but this has caught my interest. The Dana is 2.62:1 which is better than the 2:1 of the TX, but being able to double this certainly is appealing.

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