Anyone running Pennzoil 10w30 High Mileage?

[PrecisionX]

I have an 04 SE with 124,xxx on it and am about to do my first oil change so I picked up some Pennzoil 10w30 High Mileage. Has anyone else here used it? Any recommendations for a filter?

[shoesandsocks]

DO NOT USE A FRAM FILTER NOT A REQUEST U LIKE YOUR PATHFINDER DONT SUBJECT IT TO THAT! now that i got that out of the way purolator is like one of the best and they make filters for bosch and mobil1. Napa gold/Wix filters are also great just not fram cardboard ends with like two pleats on it.

 

And i personally never run penzoil i dont know if its good or bad i just know i love my mobile 1 or royal purple

[Towncivilian]

Purolator, Bosch, Wix, NAPA Gold filters are all fine, pick any.

 

Pennzoil HM 10W-30 should be fine. Why 10W-30 over 5W-30? 5W-30 will flow better at lower temperatures and both a 5W-30 and 10W-30 are within the same viscosity grade at operating temperature. There is no advantage of a 10W-30 over a 5W-30.

[PrecisionX]

I should just swap out the 10w30, it's what the dinks at autozone said was required according to their computers which I should have known better. I'm going to take the stuff back as well as the filter and just go to NAPA like I usually do

[drewp29]

I highly recommend a full synthetic. I don't know if the Pennzoil you have is FS, but if it isn't and it were me, I would take it back. I use Mobil 1 5W-30, but am considering a 0W-30 at my next change to see if I gain any MPGs.

 

But I would listen to Town before anyone concerning lube, he knows his stuff.

[devonianwalk]

But I would listen to Town before anyone concerning lube, he knows his stuff.

 

 

Yeah, I'm convinced of his input as well.

[adamzan]

Pennzoil Platinum is an excellent synthetic. If you don't want to use synthetic oil I would use pennzoil yellow bottle.

 

You don't need high mileage oil unless you have leaks.

[theexbrit]

I use Pennzoil 10-30w, don't need 5w as it never gets very cold in Southern California!

 

I'm also using a dreaded Fram Toughguard at the moment but will probably use something else next oil change. Everyone has their own likes/dislikes as always, & I'm not particularly "wedded" to one brand or another.

 

As for synthetic oil in a high mileage car here's what I found out from several sources.........

 

"Should I Use Synthetic Oil In My Car?

That depends on the vehicle's age, mileage, and the carmaker's recommendations for engine lubricants. Older vehicles with high mileage tend to have excessive mechanical wear in the engine, allowing for
internal oil leakage. On vehicles with high mileage, it is not recommended to use full synthetic oil because it is thin and very free flowing, and use of it does (more often than not) result in internal oil
combustion. I used full synthetic oil in a Plymouth Neon. After logging120K miles the car started to consume oil at an alarming rate. Concerned, I switched to a semi-synthetic oil that was more full-bodied
and the consumption stopped. I logged another 30K miles and sold it. It's still running with over 200K miles today and it doesn't burn oil.
Carmakers use full synthetics and semi synthetics in some of their engines today. In most cases, you will find that a synthetic lubricant is used when there's a high performance engine with tight engine
tolerances, high compression, and high operating temperatures. Follow your owner's manual for motor oil recommendations. If you want to use synthetic oil and your car is still under warranty, check with your local dealer before switching to synthetic oil (just to make sure you're covered with the switch)."

 

It seems that semi-synthetic is the best choice for high mileage cars.

[borninabarn]

I myself would never use Pennzoil.At our dealership many of the motors that had to be torn down that had alot of extra sludge in them you could look at their oil change sticker and see that they were using Pennzoil.On the Fram oil filters so right about not using.When I worked in Denver a Nissan Dealership we had a Fram filter cut apart and a Nissan filter cut apart on the counter and whatever Fram uses for its filtering is any cardboard they can find it looks like? I have opened many to see the cardboard had jap writing on the paper.The nissan filters are the way to go! Ask your Nissan Parts Advisor to give you a deal on buying 5 or more and see if you will mark them down a little?I always did for the customer.

Edited February 27, 2013 by borninabarn

[theexbrit]

:laugh:

 

I love all the different opinions I wonder how somebody like Pennzoil & Fram can stay in business for all these years if they're so bad I'm not biased to any one product & I agree that Fram filters seem like shee-ite with all that cardboard. I watched a couple of videos on YouTube where they cut open different filters & the Purolator seemed to have lots of filter surface area compared to the Fram, also better bypass valve, etc.

 

Anyway, I'm not trying to start any "oil fights", everyone has their own thoughts on these subjects. Personally, I'd like to find a good oil & filter that MOST people agree is worth the money.

[Towncivilian]

Engine oils today are tested against American Petroleum Institute certifications. The current specification is API SN. If an oil meets API SN (or even recent, but outdated specifications like SM and SL), it will not cause sludge or significant deposits unless you run the oil too long, or there are mechanical issues (such as a malfunctioning PCV system, intake air leaks causing excessive dirt entry, coolant entering the oil) which deplete the oil's additive package quickly and render it unable to protect the engine and prevent deposits from occurring.

 

In most engines and driving conditions, any SN conventional oil with any filter will easily make it 5k miles. Fram ToughGuard are alright filters since they have a silicone anti-drainback valve compared to the ExtraGuard's nitrile. Fram Ultra filters are built like tanks and are great filters, though unless you have 7.5k oil change intervals or higher I wouldn't bother with it. I'd still pick a Purolator Classic for cheaper at WalMart over a Fram ExtraGuard.

[PrecisionX]

Ok well I haven't had time to change my oil yet considering my schedule, I am a couple hundred miles over but still have the Pennzoil and filter in my truck and plan on taking it back. What would be recommended for a 5w30? What for a semi-synthetic? How about castrol? I'm going to be changing it next week when I am off from work.

[Towncivilian]

There's no need to overthink things, really. Just about anything will work fine. Mobil Super 5000 5W-30 and a Purolator Classic L14610 should be cheap at WalMart, about $16 total.

[theexbrit]

There's no need to overthink things, really. Just about anything will work fine. Mobil Super 5000 5W-30 and a Purolator Classic L14610 should be cheap at WalMart, about $16 total.

 

I think a lot of the "horror stories" that people put out are generally because they didn't follow the rules. As TC said if you change the oil & filter every 3-5000 or so, any oil & filter will do. People go way longer between oil changes, or again as TC said, have other problems but blame the oil or filter for sludge, etc.

 

My dad got over 350,000 miles out of an old 4-banger Hillman Husky back in England in the 1970's without synthetic energetic high mileage multiweight non-dinosaur skeleton oil & without silicone magnesium titanium-plated plasma cut plutonium coated oil filter doohickey's. :laugh: :laugh:

 

Just change the fluids on a regular basis & you should be fine.

[devonianwalk]

My dad got over 350,000 miles out of an old 4-banger Hillman Husky back in England in the 1970's without synthetic energetic high mileage multiweight non-dinosaur skeleton oil & without silicone magnesium titanium-plated plasma cut plutonium coated oil filter doohickey's. :laugh: :laugh:

 

This should be your sig quote!!!

[drewp29]

I use Pennzoil 10-30w, don't need 5w as it never gets very cold in Southern California!

 

I'm also using a dreaded Fram Toughguard at the moment but will probably use something else next oil change. Everyone has their own likes/dislikes as always, & I'm not particularly "wedded" to one brand or another.

 

As for synthetic oil in a high mileage car here's what I found out from several sources.........

 

"Should I Use Synthetic Oil In My Car?

 

That depends on the vehicle's age, mileage, and the carmaker's recommendations for engine lubricants. Older vehicles with high mileage tend to have excessive mechanical wear in the engine, allowing for

internal oil leakage. On vehicles with high mileage, it is not recommended to use full synthetic oil because it is thin and very free flowing, and use of it does (more often than not) result in internal oil

combustion. I used full synthetic oil in a Plymouth Neon. After logging120K miles the car started to consume oil at an alarming rate. Concerned, I switched to a semi-synthetic oil that was more full-bodied

and the consumption stopped. I logged another 30K miles and sold it. It's still running with over 200K miles today and it doesn't burn oil.

Carmakers use full synthetics and semi synthetics in some of their engines today. In most cases, you will find that a synthetic lubricant is used when there's a high performance engine with tight engine

tolerances, high compression, and high operating temperatures. Follow your owner's manual for motor oil recommendations. If you want to use synthetic oil and your car is still under warranty, check with your local dealer before switching to synthetic oil (just to make sure you're covered with the switch)."

 

It seems that semi-synthetic is the best choice for high mileage cars.

 

 

Hmmm, interesting. My Pathy does in fact consume oil, and it has ~170k miles on the odometer. I just chalked it up to a faulty PCV valve, which I am going to change soon. I'll still change the valve, and if nothing it still uses about a quart every 800-1000 miles then I will switch to a blend at the next oil change.

 

Thanks for the input!

[Towncivilian]

The PCV valve is buried under the lower intake manifold on VQ35DEs. It's hell to get to. If you decide to change it, put some red threadlocker on the power valve screws while you're there too. Might as well change out the spark plugs when everything is so easily accessible with the LIM off, you're getting close to having 65k on them if you changed them around 105k. If you want gasket and PCV part numbers I can post them.

[drewp29]

Yeah, that's the only reason I haven't done it yet. Oh, my pathy is a 5-speed, so no power valve screws. I changed the spark plugs at 154k when I purchased it, so they should be alright.

 

I am probably going to add an oil catch can while I am doing the PCV valve, just to see how much I collect over time, and potentially keep the engine from burning any bypass oil.

[drewp29]

After logging120K miles the car started to consume oil at an alarming rate. Concerned, I switched to a semi-synthetic oil that was more full-bodied

and the consumption stopped.

 

Funny, after several years of consuming domestic beer I started consuming it at an alarming rate. Concerned, I switched to micro-brews that were more full-bodied and my consumption decreased. It definitely didn't stop, but I drink less and enjoy it more . . .

[Towncivilian]

Sounds good. Do you want part numbers? Provide your VIN if you do.

[mel.d]

I use to be the type to over analyze oil and oil filters and would only buy the best. My father on the other hand buys the cheapest oil and oil filters from Walmart and has never had any issues with any of his cars. Many of which have gone 200k+ miles.

 

I've read many experiments on used oil analysis between different brands of oil and oil filters and have come to the conclusion that there is no need to go overboard and buy the best oil and oil filters on the market. A cheap but good Purolator filter and Walmart brand oil works just fine so long as the oil changes are done per recommended intervals.