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97 pathy lift help


DsR50
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alright so i decided to make a lift for the pathfinder. I dropped the struts 5inchs and i figured out the hard way that i must drop the sub frame. so i like the amout of clearance with just the strut spacer, but the lower A arm angle is a bit extreme. so i need someones opinon on if i drop the sub frame about 2.5 inchs so i can still get a decent A arm angle if itll align and be alright

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A 5" strut spacer combined with a 2.5" subframe drop will cause problems with both alignment and CV angle. Also, a 2.5" subframe drop will be very difficult to install because it will be hard to get a wrench or socket on the nuts securing the drop-brackets to the chassis. You'll also need to extend the steering linkage.

 

And of course, you'll also need to do something about the rear suspension.

 

Check out krfabs.com which has a complete 4" subframe drop kit that includes all of the parts you need to lift the front. You just need to find the correct springs and shocks to lift the rear.

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A 5" strut spacer combined with a 2.5" subframe drop will cause problems with both alignment and CV angle. Also, a 2.5" subframe drop will be very difficult to install because it will be hard to get a wrench or socket on the nuts securing the drop-brackets to the chassis. You'll also need to extend the steering linkage.

 

And of course, you'll also need to do something about the rear suspension.

 

Check out krfabs.com which has a complete 4" subframe drop kit that includes all of the parts you need to lift the front. You just need to find the correct springs and shocks to lift the rear.

yea i just dont want to spend the 500, i see what you mean about the exccesabilty so im thinking 3 inches might be good. as for the alignment its about 4 degrees positive camber droping the Sub frame down 2.5 with put that at less thank 2deg which is alignable. so i think 3 inches would be good

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  • 2 weeks later...

For the rear, did you get the WJ adapters? or do something else to make them fit?

i just cut 2.5 inches of 3in exhaust tubing and centered it on the perch and welded it

 

well its definatly big

ya! ya! go big or go home

 

Looks awesome! nice job man.

 

What part of CA? that doesn't look like SoCal in the background, or at least I don't recognize it.

Edited by DsR50
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What does 'sleeving' the tie-road mean?

 

It means installing a larger-diameter pipe tube around the tie-rod to give it more strength and prevent it from bending. Probably suggested because of the huge tires.

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It means installing a larger-diameter pipe tube around the tie-rod to give it more strength and prevent it from bending. Probably suggested because of the huge tires.

 

I thought that's what it meant but wasn't sure. That's not a bad idea because unlocked front diffs can quickly bend tie-rods. Is the larger diameter pipe welded on or is it just a snug fit pipe?

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I thought that's what it meant but wasn't sure. That's not a bad idea because unlocked front diffs can quickly bend tie-rods. Is the larger diameter pipe welded on or is it just a snug fit pipe?

 

The pipe is usually welded on, otherwise you can't adjust the tie-rods. Locked or open front diff shouldn't have any effect on whether tie-rods bend or not. If you're bending tie rods, you're using way too much skinny pedal.

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