BrSurfer Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 So, a few weeks ago I decided to get rid of those drops of oil coming from the rear main seal and I also tried to fix some “tic tic tic” noise that was coming from the engine – mainly from the top part of it. I started replacing all the valve lifters and then since I had the transmission out (easy access to the lower part of the engine) I also replaced the crankshaft main bearings because when cleaning the oil pan I detected some very small play on them and I thought that could be the root cause of some of the noise… Well, after all this effort I’m kind of disappointed cause I found out that I still can hear some “tic-tic-tic” sound coming from the left side of the engine. Granted, it got WAY better but I still can hear something when I'm next to a wall of with the hood opened. It definably sounds like coming just from the left top side - driver’s side. I was wondering what could be wrong now and the only thing I can think of is that I re-used the exhaust manifold gasket because it was in very good shape and parts here where I live are not that easy to find. I wonder if this sound could be just a small leaking on this gasket (it's a metal one). I REALLY appreciate if you guys can provide some input on what to look for. This is driving me crazy!!! Is there a way to check the exhaust for leaking?? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Are you sure it isn't injector ticking? Use a long handled screwdriver to act as a stethoscope to listen and try to pinpoint the noise. What oil & filter do you typically use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 I got that same noise. No idea where the hell it's coming from but I am pretty sure it is the injectors and they probably tick from age. It does not make the sound when you rev in neutral or when you drive around in low gears and at high rpms. It will only come in when the engine is moving at around 2000-3000 rpm in higher gears on the highway. Basically it only goes in under load. I know what a leaking manifold sounds like and it is definitely a different kind of ticking because even my camera will not pick it up it's just so high pitched. I can't pinpoint it with a stethoscope because it doesn't show up when the vehicle is not moving. No idea what it is. I never replaced the EGR valve or EGR valve gasket though and that's the last thing I would look at. So I just said screw it and drive around with the noise because it doesn't seem to affect anything. Every VG30E and VG33E I have heard for some reason develops this weird ticking sound under load over time. Of course this is not to be confused with the studs breaking, which is a different problem and sounds a little different too. You can check for carbon deposits. If the manifold leaks you will see black carbon deposits. Other thing you can do is feel for any exhaust coming out around the gasket areas. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 If it is intake carbon deposits, you can use something like Amsoil Power Foam, Seafoam Deep Creep, or even hot water (sucked in very carefully through a vacuum line to prevent hydrolock) to clean out the deposits from the intake. Be sure to follow all instructions if you use something like the former two options. My VQ35DE has loud injector ticking at idle, but I believe that's characteristic of the VQ35. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrSurfer Posted September 8, 2012 Author Share Posted September 8, 2012 Are you sure it isn't injector ticking? Use a long handled screwdriver to act as a stethoscope to listen and try to pinpoint the noise. What oil & filter do you typically use? The noise sounds more "metalic" than the injectors and it comes just from one side. I would think if it was injectors it would come from the middle near to the intake. I'm using ELF 15-50w and I don't know which filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrSurfer Posted September 8, 2012 Author Share Posted September 8, 2012 In my case I get the sound in whatever rpm. It doesn't matter if it is under load or not. I may try the screwdriver trick suggested by TownCivilian later today... Thanks guys. I got that same noise. No idea where the hell it's coming from but I am pretty sure it is the injectors and they probably tick from age. It does not make the sound when you rev in neutral or when you drive around in low gears and at high rpms. It will only come in when the engine is moving at around 2000-3000 rpm in higher gears on the highway. Basically it only goes in under load. I know what a leaking manifold sounds like and it is definitely a different kind of ticking because even my camera will not pick it up it's just so high pitched. I can't pinpoint it with a stethoscope because it doesn't show up when the vehicle is not moving. No idea what it is. I never replaced the EGR valve or EGR valve gasket though and that's the last thing I would look at. So I just said screw it and drive around with the noise because it doesn't seem to affect anything. Every VG30E and VG33E I have heard for some reason develops this weird ticking sound under load over time. Of course this is not to be confused with the studs breaking, which is a different problem and sounds a little different too. You can check for carbon deposits. If the manifold leaks you will see black carbon deposits. Other thing you can do is feel for any exhaust coming out around the gasket areas. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Why such thick oil? Sure, it's hot in Brazil, but the engine's cooling system will generally keep the average oil temperature around the same, thus eliminating any potential benefits of a thicker engine oil in terms of heat dissipation. A 5W-30, which is what is preferred in the service manual and likely your owner's manual, will certainly suffice and will warm up to operating temperature faster, and the oil pump won't work as hard to pump the oil. Even a 10W-30 or 10W-40 if 5W-30 is unavailable in your area would be a better choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 If the oil is too thick, the lifters tick... mine do it with 10-30 when the car's sat in freezing temps overnight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrSurfer Posted September 9, 2012 Author Share Posted September 9, 2012 (edited) Interesting, I was checking the maintenance manual I have downloaded from US and it says 10w30. However, the manual I have from Nissan (Brazil version) says 15w-40 and this is what I used to have. Now, I’m moving from the south of Brazil to the North and the temperatures there range from 55 to over 104. The manual says in this conditions I should go with either 20w-40 or 20w-50. I’ve chosen 15w-50 to be also covered during eventual lower temperatures. Also, since the truck has already some good mileage a friend (Mechanic Engineer) said I should be good with this choice. Even now that is winter and I’m still on the south we are having 86+ here. Why such thick oil? Sure, it's hot in Brazil, but the engine's cooling system will generally keep the average oil temperature around the same, thus eliminating any potential benefits of a thicker engine oil in terms of heat dissipation. A 5W-30, which is what is preferred in the service manual and likely your owner's manual, will certainly suffice and will warm up to operating temperature faster, and the oil pump won't work as hard to pump the oil. Even a 10W-30 or 10W-40 if 5W-30 is unavailable in your area would be a better choice. Edited September 9, 2012 by BrSurfer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrSurfer Posted September 9, 2012 Author Share Posted September 9, 2012 Yeah, I can see that happening, but doesn't that tick disappear once the engine is hot? I’m not experience the same behavior here, and I’m getting pretty hot days now and the ticking is still there even with engine hot. If the oil is too thick, the lifters tick... mine do it with 10-30 when the car's sat in freezing temps overnight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Yeah, I don't think mine's ever ticked for more than 30 seconds at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Higher mileage does not necessitate use of thicker oil. Use 10W30 heavy duty engine oil like Rotella if available, or any 5W30 or 10W30 passenger car motor oil. A 50 weight 'hot' oil is excessively thick in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Yeah, I can see that happening, but doesn't that tick disappear once the engine is hot? I’m not experience the same behavior here, and I’m getting pretty hot days now and the ticking is still there even with engine hot. Hydraulic lifter tick is probably a good reason. Again I'm just hypothesizing here but I don't see why not especially on a high mileage engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Exhaust manifolds really can cause a lot of ticking sounds... I just removed mine today so I can machine them flat again and hopefully solve this problem for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 An older engine, especially one that wasn't terribly precise to begin with, might benefit from thicker oil. I think my dad runs 20w-50 in the tractor engine that powers his '67 Triumph. The VGs are more precise, so unless it's well and truly flogged out, 5 or 10 weight is probably fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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