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BrSurfer

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Everything posted by BrSurfer

  1. Sorry for the Late answer. Yes, it's factory.
  2. Fernando, sorry to hear that, but at the same time I'm glad to see you got back safe. Have you checked what happened with the transmission when you arrived in Buenos Aires?
  3. Yeah, I can see that happening, but doesn't that tick disappear once the engine is hot? I’m not experience the same behavior here, and I’m getting pretty hot days now and the ticking is still there even with engine hot.
  4. Interesting, I was checking the maintenance manual I have downloaded from US and it says 10w30. However, the manual I have from Nissan (Brazil version) says 15w-40 and this is what I used to have. Now, I’m moving from the south of Brazil to the North and the temperatures there range from 55 to over 104. The manual says in this conditions I should go with either 20w-40 or 20w-50. I’ve chosen 15w-50 to be also covered during eventual lower temperatures. Also, since the truck has already some good mileage a friend (Mechanic Engineer) said I should be good with this choice. Even now that is winter and I’m still on the south we are having 86+ here.
  5. In my case I get the sound in whatever rpm. It doesn't matter if it is under load or not. I may try the screwdriver trick suggested by TownCivilian later today... Thanks guys.
  6. The noise sounds more "metalic" than the injectors and it comes just from one side. I would think if it was injectors it would come from the middle near to the intake. I'm using ELF 15-50w and I don't know which filter.
  7. So, a few weeks ago I decided to get rid of those drops of oil coming from the rear main seal and I also tried to fix some “tic tic tic” noise that was coming from the engine – mainly from the top part of it. I started replacing all the valve lifters and then since I had the transmission out (easy access to the lower part of the engine) I also replaced the crankshaft main bearings because when cleaning the oil pan I detected some very small play on them and I thought that could be the root cause of some of the noise… Well, after all this effort I’m kind of disappointed cause I found out that I still can hear some “tic-tic-tic” sound coming from the left side of the engine. Granted, it got WAY better but I still can hear something when I'm next to a wall of with the hood opened. It definably sounds like coming just from the left top side - driver’s side. I was wondering what could be wrong now and the only thing I can think of is that I re-used the exhaust manifold gasket because it was in very good shape and parts here where I live are not that easy to find. I wonder if this sound could be just a small leaking on this gasket (it's a metal one). I REALLY appreciate if you guys can provide some input on what to look for. This is driving me crazy!!! Is there a way to check the exhaust for leaking?? Thanks in advance.
  8. Those 265/75s will rub. I have those with 2'' of lift and I still had to cut a little bit of the plastic next to the front bumper to make them clear when turning.
  9. We can always move that lower part of the strut up a little, like this : Right Mr Chuck? Welcome aboard!
  10. Here it is mate, these are the pictures of the strut modification: You can see the original place were the coil base was siting. This modification also helps clear the tire in case you are using a wider measure.
  11. Thanks for the feedbacks guys! Thanks! I will take some pictures to show you the strut set up, but as long as you know how to weld it should be pretty straight forward.
  12. I don’t usually post much here but I’m always reading and searching for information. I can’t tell you how many times the tips I got from npora help me fix things or just serve as inspiration to me. Big thank you for all of you guys! Awesome community! So I finally did something “extra” in my truck and I decided to share with you guys some of the steps and the final results. About 6 weeks ago I discovered that one of the cylinders was sucking water from the cooling galleries so I had to take the path to a friend’s shop to open the upper part of the engine and do the heads. Since the truck would be there for some weeks waiting till I imported all the parts from US I decided to take the plunge and finally do a SFD. We had some experience on this since we have done the same in a friends truck. In his case the SFD was 3.2’’ since he raised his truck that much , but for my truck we decided to go with 2.4’’ SFD. It was easiest to get the tubes in this measure (6x6 centimeters) and everything could be done faster and cheaper - without custom welding. Here it is a picture of the kit and the install. [/img] [/img] [/img] We also created a steering link bolt on kit using part of a steering link from Ford together with the pathfinder one. This way I can reverse back to the original (removing the SFD) if I want. [/img] We ordered an aluminum strut spacer for the top of the struts, it is 3 centimeters high, so it is a little higher than the 1’’ you usually use there. [/img] Here were I leave we have a local pathfinder club and many R50 have 1 to 1.5’’ inches of lift in the front and 2 to 3 ‘’ on the hear. To achieve this lift in the rear we swap the coils using custom ones made here. In the front end the struts are modified, the base of where the coil sits is re-welded 1 to 1.5 inches higher. Everybody is using this configuration for years here with no issues at all. So I did the same. Summarizing, I lifted the truck about 2.5 inches on the back and 2.4 in the front with a SFD of 2.4 inches. Before, in low rider style [/img] Final result (I’ve just changed tires to 265x75 R16): [/img] I’m sorry to mix things around regarding centimeters and inches… I really don't know if I posted the pictures correctly, I hope it works. (FIXED!!)
  13. That is really nice to know. Thank you guys for all your feedbacks!
  14. Well, I will put some more effort on trying to find one here. But, at the end it may be easier to get one in US and pay for the shipping. Car parts here are too expensive. Thanks!
  15. Yeah, it looks like this is not so unusual. I know 2 other guys here from Brazil Pathfinder Club that faced the same issue. Is your truck lifted? I wonder what could be causing this...
  16. Unfortunately, for most of the time I'll be traveling on-road and I believe I will miss that safe ride once going to the mountains on fast roads. So, I was thinking about putting a disconnect link option, but then I still need the sway bar. Thanks for the feedback!
  17. Yes I know, I was looking for a stiffer one and I figure this should fit just fine.
  18. Hi People, So, the rear sway bar from my Pathfinder broke a week ago. I was not wheeling or anything, I figured it was when the truck flexed in my garage entrance – which is not much at all. Anyway, I took it off and after looking at rupture point I could clearly see that it was about to broke for some time, the place was with 60% of the area covered by rust. The truck has about 2 inches of lift on the rear and I haven’t extended the Sway bar links. So, do you think that not extending the links could be the cause of the rupture? I’m riding without the bar since that and I was able to feel the difference immediately, so now I’m looking for a replacement. I have checked some junk yards but no luck so far . I’m in Brazil and Pathfinders are not very popular here. When looking at some online shops on US I found this one : http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/2025-pathfinder-sway-bar.html Does anyone know if this is good?? Should I just stick with a OEM one? Thanks in Advance! P.S. I have now a 1999.5 Pathfinder, my signature was outdated.
  19. I've just bought mine from StreetSideAuto.com, US$163.99 shipping include. Warn premium It was the best price I found.
  20. Thanks for the tip! I believe energy suspension should have all I need, right?
  21. Cool! Thanks for all your replys folks. Now I can spend that money in something else, still wondering what exactly... I'm going to US next month and I need to figure out what would be the best investments (parts).
  22. Hi Guys, I'm buying another pathfinder, this time a R50 99.5. Off course, I will probably keep my beloved wd21. The more the better , right? I don't know much about R50s.So, here it is my question: Do I need to install a aftermarket transmission cooler in it? I did that on my wd21, but I'm not sure if that's a must for the r50s. Thanks!
  23. I had this same problem some time ago. Same fix, it seems that those wires in the MAF connector are a little short.
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