WyKi Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 (edited) Hey guys where do you think this noise is coming from? Bottom/crank or top/cylinder head? Seems like the top right/passenger's side but then It could be somewhere /something else. Thanks guys. http://youtu.be/kOWYxjFAv_I Edited June 19, 2012 by WyKi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 Hard for me to tell in that video, you need something like..... http://www.sears.com/kd-tools-kdt835-mechanics-stethoscope/p-SPM222404844P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 (edited) You have (at least) two different noises going on. There is a very obvious high-pitched tap that is at a very irregular rhythm, but then you also have an underlying, subtle, low-pitched knocking. I'll listen again and edit I don't think the high-pitched tapping/rapping is from anything related from the cylinders or cam/valves. It's just going too slow to be from that stuff, not to mention the irregular rhythm. If your engine is idling at ~800rpm, any sort of noise from a cylinder or valve/lifter is going to be ~13 times per second. Edited June 21, 2012 by 1994SEV6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WyKi Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 Rpm is at around 500-800 so yea I imagine that it should be higher, where do I adjust? I don't have the original snorkel connected neither. The breather from the valve cover to the aircleaner. Think those thing would have something to do with the low rpm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Rpm is at around 500-800 so yea I imagine that it should be higher, where do I adjust? I don't have the original snorkel connected neither. The breather from the valve cover to the aircleaner. Think those thing would have something to do with the low rpm? I wasn't saying your idling RPM was low. If it idles smoothly at 500-800 like you said, then leave it alone. Unless the air flow is somehow restricted, the lack of air intake components would not contribute to lowering your RPM. You should replace those parts, though. I could hear some whistling either from the air cleaner sucking air in, or some vacuum leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 What happens if you remove all the v-belts? This may sound stupid but sometimes the accessories can make noises like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhornet Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 the ticking is an exhaust leak or possibly a spark plug wire jumping fire that would explain it being erratic and the lower noise is not a good thing but may hold on for a bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 That sounds like a rod loud and proud. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WyKi Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 19: Ok, yea I find it does idle ok an those rpms, just not used to it being so low, on my 92 it was almost at 1k at idle and smooth too. From what I see all vacuum hoses are installed except that breather to aircleaner one and the snorkel bit. MAD: yea i've thought about the exhaust leak on the manifold as its been said by others so it could be a possibility. On the lower noise being that like you said its not good but could hold on, you think that I would be able to change the bearings and not have to regrind the crank? King: You say rod, same last question goes to you? And would main bearings do the same noise? I would imagine if it were the mains it would sound even worse. I guess I'll be changing rod bearings then, should I change the mains while I'm at it? Sorry for making it such a long post but it should would be nice to keep this engine going strong for atleast 120k miles more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 What does you oil smell/look like Compression test? Get the proper air intake setup back on there also. These engine need the proper intake/back pressure...that is where i would start Sounds like a bad plug or water in the fuel to me though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 His air cleaner is fine without the restrictive accordion tube, TBIs run crappy without the entire assembly though. Back pressure - so very wrong. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 (edited) His air cleaner is fine without the restrictive accordion tube, TBIs run crappy without the entire assembly though. Back pressure - so very wrong. What do you mean by Wrong? BTW...Mine runs like crap with out the intake tube Edited July 23, 2012 by Mauitrailguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 What do you mean by Wrong? BTW...Mine runs like crap with out the intake tube They don't need exhaust back pressure lol no engine does... old myth that really needs to hurry up and die. Mine ran great without the tube and so did the others I've turned wrenches on. However it didn't run great when I forgot to put it back on and plowed a mud hole, but that's self explanatory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 His air cleaner is fine without the restrictive accordion tube, TBIs run crappy without the entire assembly though. Back pressure - so very wrong. Check! Back pressure is a myth, at least on a 4 stroke Otto cycle engine. The 2 stroke oil burners are a different story for a different thread... I actually believed that nonsense a while ago but after doing some research it turned out to be one of those incorrect internet facts. Accordingly sized pipes for velocity is what you want. If you have a leak before the oxygen sensor though you might have issues. Now the TBI trucks do tend to run funny with TOO much air flow. There is a specific range that the MAF sensor expects and if you throw that off the chart then the ECU is going to flood the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 Which is why if you take the air cleaner assembly off they barely run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 Yeah as you said they do not run well without the entire assembly. I can see the argument for it not running well without even the tube too. Of course that can be fixed by removing the battery terminal for a few seconds. The ECU will not be able to adjust for removing the entire assembly though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 Actually that noise sounds a lot like a broken off camshaft retainer bolt. I know Mr510s engine lost a retainer bolt back there and the cam would just walk back and forth and make that noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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