PatD Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Let me pick your brains about my 99 LE brake issues here. I replaced brakes all around, along with an OME lift. Old rears weren't all that worn out. With the new brakes, the rears will not engage. With the pedal to the floor, you can still grab and rotate either rear tire. I checked the load sensing valve, adjusted it to both extremities, to no avail. Swapped the LSV thinking that the old one was faulty - still no luck with the new(ish) one adjusted to max or min. Replaced the master cylinder with new one. Still no change. When icy out, and the brakes applied, the rear wheels still somewhat drive while the fronts are locked up. I checked the booster as per the factory service manual and it checks fine. Also ran 2 litres of synthetic fluid through while bleeding. Shouldn't be any air in the system. The hand brake does engage fine. About 2 months ago, a kid ran out in the street in front of me. I obviously braked hard, and that would have been ROUGHLY around the time I last remember the brakes working real well. Gotta be something simple I am overlooking here. I am getting some pressure to the rears, as I can bleed them, and the shoes do travel when the drum is off, but not enough to do any real work. Any ideas? I'm lost. Thanks in advance. Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Did you follow the correct bleeding order? 1. LSV air bleeder (4WD models only) 2. Left rear brake 3. Right rear brake 4. Left front brake 5. Right front brake All brake fluid is synthetic, by the way. If it's on the bottle it's just a stupid marketing gimmick. Perhaps your wheel cylinders are shot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 The rear brakes self-adjust every time the emergency brake is applied. Try applying the e-brake a few times...it may help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatD Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 The proper bleeding order was followed each time it was bled. When I adjusted the new rear brakes I tried it right from when you could just hear them drag, up to needing both hands to turn the wheel with no applied brakes. The first tank of fuel at that adjustment ran about 50 KM less than the usual. Any other ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatD Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 forgot ot mention, as the brakes are currently adjusted, I get about 4-6 clicks before you really got to pull. T get any more clicks is an unreasonable yank on the handbrake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 (edited) Indeed, you're correct. On 1997-2000 Pathfinders, the rear brakes self-adjust every time the parking brake is applied. Fronts self-adjust every time the brake pedal is pressed. On 2001-2004 Pathfinders, both the front and rear brakes self-adjust every time the brake pedal is pressed. Though since the OP has replaced at least his brake shoes previously, I'd assume the shoes are adjusted properly. EDIT: Oh, two new replies. Your parking brake should have between 6 to 8 notches with a reasonable amount of force applied. Adjust it following the procedure on page BR-30. Edited March 8, 2012 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatD Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 (edited) The shoes were adjusted from "loose" to what would be considered too tight. Throughout the entire range, there is no pedal brake force. The system also has no leaks. Drums are new as well. With regards to the parking brake, 6-8 is factory reccomended, I indicated the 4-6 to show how quickly the shoes engage. The star adjusters are out quite a bit considering the shoes and drums are new. Wheel cylinders function. They do not leak, and they do actuate when the drums are off. Edited March 8, 2012 by PatD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Is all the drum brake hardware (springs, seats, washers, etc) intact and in working order? It is possible to adjust the brake pedal freeplay and height, but this is probably not the correct course of action. I'm not very familiar with drum brakes so I'm afraid I have no more useful advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 I would try bleeding the rears again. When I did mine it was such a pain to get all the air out of the rear lines and cylinders. Try gravity bleeding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatD Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 When I did them, I replaced all the hardware, but for the star washers, so all springs and retainers are new. Regards to bleeding, having changed both the LSV first, and then the master cylinder, I have run 2 litres of fluid through it. I bled the crap out of them. Will run another bottle through to rule out. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Did you bench bleed the new master cylinder first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatD Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 I bench bled the master cylinder as manufacturer suggests. I also just checked the wheel cylinders to see if they are traveling. They are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatD Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Replaced the wheel cylinders, checked rubber lines for balooning, bled the system again. Anyone else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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