PatD

Replaced the wheel cylinders, checked rubber lines for balooning, bled the system again. Anyone else?

I bench bled the master cylinder as manufacturer suggests. I also just checked the wheel cylinders to see if they are traveling. They are.

When I did them, I replaced all the hardware, but for the star washers, so all springs and retainers are new. Regards to bleeding, having changed both the LSV first, and then the master cylinder, I have run 2 litres of fluid through it. I bled the crap out of them. Will run another bottle through to rule out. Thanks.

The shoes were adjusted from "loose" to what would be considered too tight. Throughout the entire range, there is no pedal brake force. The system also has no leaks. Drums are new as well. With regards to the parking brake, 6-8 is factory reccomended, I indicated the 4-6 to show how quickly the shoes engage. The star adjusters are out quite a bit considering the shoes and drums are new. Wheel cylinders function. They do not leak, and they do actuate when the drums are off.

forgot ot mention, as the brakes are currently adjusted, I get about 4-6 clicks before you really got to pull. T get any more clicks is an unreasonable yank on the handbrake.

The proper bleeding order was followed each time it was bled. When I adjusted the new rear brakes I tried it right from when you could just hear them drag, up to needing both hands to turn the wheel with no applied brakes. The first tank of fuel at that adjustment ran about 50 KM less than the usual. Any other ideas?

Let me pick your brains about my 99 LE brake issues here. I replaced brakes all around, along with an OME lift. Old rears weren't all that worn out. With the new brakes, the rears will not engage. With the pedal to the floor, you can still grab and rotate either rear tire. I checked the load sensing valve, adjusted it to both extremities, to no avail. Swapped the LSV thinking that the old one was faulty - still no luck with the new(ish) one adjusted to max or min. Replaced the master cylinder with new one. Still no change. When icy out, and the brakes applied, the rear wheels still somewhat drive while the fronts are locked up. I checked the booster as per the factory service manual and it checks fine. Also ran 2 litres of synthetic fluid through while bleeding. Shouldn't be any air in the system. The hand brake does engage fine. About 2 months ago, a kid ran out in the street in front of me. I obviously braked hard, and that would have been ROUGHLY around the time I last remember the brakes working real well. Gotta be something simple I am overlooking here. I am getting some pressure to the rears, as I can bleed them, and the shoes do travel when the drum is off, but not enough to do any real work. Any ideas? I'm lost. Thanks in advance. Pat

5/8" or 1/2" (can't remember) heater hose works really well too. Lots of grease to get it on though.

If you were to put a soft rubber donut over the shock and in the void of the bracket, that would keep the shock centered, preventing the tie rod from rotating, yet still allow for some flex. Regards the mounting location, if anyone has access to a lathe, you could bore a pipe just big enough to sleeve the inner tie rod, yet leave the end 3/8" or so undersized. Thread that remaining 3/8" to thread on to your inner tie rod, and you have a sleeve/good solid mount to put your outer stabilizer mount....