Timmons Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Does anyone have a good link to a DIY on how to replace the rotors on a 1998 R50? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 There's this one, but it's for a 2001 Pathfinder and it isn't ridiculously in-depth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Its pretty simple, Are you changing the bearings and rear seal too? (you don't have to, just a bit more work) You literally just remove the wheel, remove the brake caliper, take you're Warn Hubs off. Remove the snap ring and the locking "nuts" from the CV shaft, the shake the piss out of the rotor to get the Hub assembly off the spindle (be careful not to drop the outter bearing) Remove the bolts from the rotor/hub assembly, bonk the rotor off with a soft hammer (or a hard one, they're garbage anyway. Then re-install the new rotor on the hub by tightening the bolts bit by bit, in a Star pattern. You don't need to remove the rear bearing if the seal is still good. So just repack it (with grease) in the hub, repack the outer bearing and put it all back together. I use a 32 mm socket to bonk the outer bearing back into place. then re-install the locking "Nuts"(they're more of a threaded washer). Tighen then right down so the wheel won't turn, then back it off about a quarter turn (hillbilly pre-load) I don't know he actual torque specs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E_ROCK Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-replace-brake-rotors-and-pads-for-2001-qx4-pathfinder-t445492.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmons Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 Next time i will post pictures, it was a snap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathfounder Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 I had trouble with the wheel bearing preload. I followed the FSM to a "T" and even still, after about 300k worth of driving, it would have some play. You should confirm that the wheel bearing preload is right after having driven it awhile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmons Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 I had trouble with the wheel bearing preload. I followed the FSM to a "T" and even still, after about 300k worth of driving, it would have some play. You should confirm that the wheel bearing preload is right after having driven it awhile. Goood point, i took a guess. All i had was two screw drivers and made it as tight as i could get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathfounder Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 I could only get mine tight enough by using a punch and a hammer. Make sure that they're not too tight. If it gets hot after driving, it's too tight (and probably too late; replace in this case). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 (edited) There is a proper tool for this job, you can get it online for 12 dollars, or go to a local parts store and get a 4 prong one and cut off 2 of the prongs for even cheaper. Makes it 1000x easier to do the job and you can set the bearing preload properly. Like pathfounder, when I repacked the bearings for the first time I had to keep tightening it after a few hundred km because I didn't have the tool. Edited February 15, 2012 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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