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Automatic hubs/Manual hubs


nispath4wds
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So what kind of hubs do I have? I bought Mile Makers Hubs with locking and unlocking mechanism in front.I am asking this question because I've been having some problems with these hubs since I started using 4x4.

Let me explain: With my hubs locked in, and 4x4 liver disengaged, when starting to accelerate 40km/hr my track starts to vibrate, it also feels like 4x4 is engaged even the green light is off. I dont seem to have this problem with hubs locked in and 4x4 engaged. When I unlock the hubs there is no problem with driving, everything works well. I just changed the cv boot, and checked U joints. Any ideas??

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Exactly, when locked but not in 4x4, you are spinning your front CVs. This is extra inertia and if they are binding at all, can easily cause vibration felt in the steering. If you were still running the stock drive flanges, you would have this effect all of the time.

 

Lifting increases the CV angle, making it more likely to be stiff or binding and larger tires generally amplify any steering problems or effects. How much of a change did you make? I'm going to assume it was all done correctly...

 

B

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With your hubs locked in the wheels will turn all the 4 wheel drive parts. That means that front differential will be turning and your front drive shaft will turn even with 4 wheel not engaged.

So in this case, my problem must be with front shaft.

What i think is that after switching from 4x4, inside the cabin the front drive shaft is not completly unlocking the differental. Maybe all I need is some grese. What you guys think?

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Exactly, when locked but not in 4x4, you are spinning your front CVs. This is extra inertia and if they are binding at all, can easily cause vibration felt in the steering. If you were still running the stock drive flanges, you would have this effect all of the time.

 

Lifting increases the CV angle, making it more likely to be stiff or binding and larger tires generally amplify any steering problems or effects. How much of a change did you make? I'm going to assume it was all done correctly...

 

B

I have KYB GR2 struts and shocks, 2" lift, Nx4 1" strut spacers in front, 31x10.5x15, Mile Mikers manual hubs.

You think this is something serious, or some parts I should upgrade?

Flange, where is it located?

Edited by nispath4wds
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I have KYB GR2 struts and shocks, 2" lift, Nx4 1" strut spacers in front, 31x10.5x15, Mile Mikers manual hubs.

You think this is something serious, or some parts I should upgrade?

Flange, where is it located?

No, I do not think it is anything serious. I suspect it is merely the difference of having the CV's turn VS not turning although I have not felt how bad it vibrates. Have you jacked up the front and spun them by hand, looked/listened? This would be my next step.

 

As DVW stated, the drive flanges (solidly bolted on via 6 bolts) have to be removed to install the Mile Marker hubs; I have the same on a 1999.0. The flanges make the CVs turn any time the wheel does and the Mile Markers select if they spin or not.

 

B

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No, I do not think it is anything serious. I suspect it is merely the difference of having the CV's turn VS not turning although I have not felt how bad it vibrates. Have you jacked up the front and spun them by hand, looked/listened? This would be my next step.

 

As DVW stated, the drive flanges (solidly bolted on via 6 bolts) have to be removed to install the Mile Marker hubs; I have the same on a 1999.0. The flanges make the CVs turn any time the wheel does and the Mile Markers select if they spin or not.

 

B

What about a cabin 4x4 lewer, maybe is not turning off completly.

Transfer case, maybe thats my problem. I'll take a look on weekend, and see what I can find

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I do not recall anyone having a problem with the transfer case where they shifted out of 4x4 and it was still engaged. Not saying it's not possible, just not common at all. Yeah, experimentation and inspection is the next step.

 

B

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If you have the front wheels locked in, the shafts will all move, but they won't be powered. Unlock the front end, it'll stop happening.

 

What do you mean, "What i think is that after switching from 4x4, inside the cabin the front drive shaft is not completly unlocking the differental."?

There's no locking diff on the front, unless you've installed your own. When you switch from 4 to 2, it disconnects the transfer case internals from the front shaft. That shouldn't affect anything. For that matter, if your front hubs were unlocked, it would feel like 2WD all the time, even if you were stuck in 4WD.

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in my experience with my old fords if i had the hubs locked and the transfer case in 2wd i could do much over 35 because the slip yoke in the driveline was wore out cause the driveline to do this ^ causing it to be way out of balance. if i put it in 4wd the vibrations were not nearly as bad as before but still noticable. with the hubs unlocked and it in 2 wd the front driveline didnt turn therefore not causing any vibrations. do pathfinders have a slip yoke in the front driveline? i would assume they dont cause of the hard mounted front axle but its a possibility they do

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if your t-case is in 2wd, but your auto hubs or manual hubs are locked, it will turn the differential and the driveshaft, but no power will be going to them from the transfer case, so there is the possibility of a strange vibration.

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What about a cabin 4x4 lewer, maybe is not turning off completly.

Transfer case, maybe thats my problem. I'll take a look on weekend, and see what I can find

 

I do not recall anyone having a problem with the transfer case where they shifted out of 4x4 and it was still engaged. Not saying it's not possible, just not common at all. Yeah, experimentation and inspection is the next step.

 

B

 

Your transfer case is different than mine, but sometimes mine does not disengage the front drive when shifting from 4hi to 2hi. The dash light goes out but it stays locked in 4wd. Usually I just have to rock it back and forth a couple times and it comes out of 4wd. But a couple times it would not disengage no matter what I did so I just unlocked my hubs and eventually the front driveshaft, diff, and half shafts stopped spinning.

 

I would put it in 4hi with the hubs unlocked. Drive it around a bit, a couple circles in a parking lot will do, then go back to 2hi. Next physically look at the front drive shaft and see if it's still turning when someone else slowly moves the vehicle. If it's not possible to see the driveshaft in yours you can look at the half shafts (CV shafts) but you have to look at both since often times only one will actually turn with an open front diff. If it is sticking in 4wd and you go onto dry pavement with the hubs still locked you can break stuff. When I do this my Pathy vibrates insanely bad, the steering gets stiff, and the handling is all messed up due to drivetrain wrap-up and binding.

 

Another thing you can do to help diagnose this is an old wheeler's trick: Put a zip tie on the front driveshaft in a location that the tail of it hits something non-critical as the shaft turns. (Be sure there are no wires or hoses it can hit!) The end of the zip tie will make a light slapping noise that you can hear from inside the truck. This will tell you if the T-case has stuck in 4wd and the front end is still turning.

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Mine does that all the time, I put it back to 2hi but the 4x4 light is still on and you can still spin all 4 tires unless you rock it back and forth or put it from drive to neutral and back. Especially when it is really cold out.

Edited by adamzan
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