NissanNismoZ Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 OK. So. I bought LED's for my corner lights.. that was a fail. Apparently it takes small bulbs, i was expecting the size of a normal reverse light or turn signal bulb. OK i can deal with that. So my brake/tail light combo LED bulb.. It has the two prongs on the bottom (of course lo for tail, hi for brake.) And..i plug it in..and.. it works! I hit the brake..no change in brightness at all.. Any ideas?? Thanks! I also put my bulb i planned for my corner light in my rear blinker and it started hyper blinking (as expected) Thanks! Also if anyone has ideas on what i could do with these, give them by all means! The corner light ones are amber colored.. and the ones i bought for the brake/tail are clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lint Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 The 1157 is a dual filament bulb for running and brake lights, while the 1156 is a single filament bulb. They look very similar but are not interchangeable. A common mistake is to put an 1156 into a socket for an 1157 bulb. The 1157 bulb is keyed so it will only go into the socket one way. Note that one lock tab on the 1157 is higher than the other. This prevents it from going in wrong. Also note that the lock tabs on the 1156 are the same height so it will not go into an 1157 socket. Sometimes, one of the two prongs on the bottom of the bulb is too low. You could bend the tab inside the light socket to make a better connection, or you could solder a blob onto the bottom of the bulb to make the connection better. Hope this helps? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 Hope this helps... the front side lights are 168. I bought the cool blue ones from my 92 pathfinder i also have 8k hids in my projectors and they look like the exact same color and match great but i have different headlights and all clear side markers (from aus) and then i bought hard body front blinkers which are clear with mirrored bulbs so they arent orange inside. I didnt install leds for blinkers because i didnt want to deal with soldering resistor to make them not blink fast. Like others have side you might of bought the wrong bulb for the brake light. reference on here. I normally get my bulbs from superbrightleds.com 1995 NISSAN Pathfinder High & low beam headlamp 9004 9004SU SilverStar Ultra: The brightest and whitest light. Up to 50% brighter, up to 40% more downroad visibility and up to 50% more sideroad visibility. 9004ST SilverStar: The brighter and whiter light. Up to 35% brighter, up to 30% more downroad visibility and up to 35% more sideroad visibility. 9004EB EcoBright - Your Environmental Choice. Save Energy - Save Money. Up to 25% brighter light. CO2 reduced 9 to 21%. Gas savings $2 to $19. 9004XV XtraVision: The brighter light for upgraded performance. Up to 30% brighter light and up to 25% more downroad visibility. 9004CB Cool Blue: The whiter light for style. Up to 25% brighter light and up to 25% more downroad visibility. Parking light 168 168ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider. 168LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Front turn signal 1156 1156ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider. 1156LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Rear turn signal 1156 1156ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider. 1156LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Tail light 1157 1157ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider. 1157LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Stop light 1157 1157ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider. 1157LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. High mount stop light 168 168ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider. 168LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Fog/Driving light H3-55W License plate 168 168ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider. 168LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. 89 89LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Back up light 1156 1156ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider. 1156LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Front sidemarker 168 168ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider. 168LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Step/Courtesy light DE3175 DE3175LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted December 15, 2011 Author Share Posted December 15, 2011 WOW. Thanks for that VERY useful information! Now i know what to look \for when buying LED's instead of just looking at the connector and guessing..hah. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 the hyper fast blinking is from the blinker module thinking the bulb is out, because an LED takes so much less voltage than a standard filament style bulb. they sell resisters that go inline and trick the blinker module in to thinking that it's providing the "correct" amount of power to the LED. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 the hyper fast blinking is from the blinker module thinking the bulb is out, because an LED takes so much less voltage than a standard filament style bulb. they sell resisters that go inline and trick the blinker module in to thinking that it's providing the "correct" amount of power to the LED. Or you can purchase an electronic flasher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 (edited) There is no blinker module, it's just a flasher. The load drops with one bulb out so it goes faster but LEDs run at such low voltage that it's the same as not having a bulb. Replacing the flasher relay with an electronic flasher is probably the best idea. Edited December 16, 2011 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 There is no blinker module, it's just a flasher. The load drops with one bulb out so it goes faster but LEDs run at such low voltage that it's the same as not having a bulb. Replacing the flasher relay with an electronic flasher is probably the best idea. Thanks for the correction! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted December 16, 2011 Author Share Posted December 16, 2011 So..instead of wiring in a resistor..couldnt i just wire in a regular bulb and hide it? or..no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Yes you can, seen it a few times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 There is also a similar issue relating to replacing all of the brake bulbs with LEDs. The vehicle thinks all of the stop lamps are out due to the low current draw, so cruise control doesn't work and I think there was some other side effect. A fix is to replace one of the 9 LED bulbs in the center high mounted stop lamp with an incandescent bulb. I'm fairly sure this issue would occur on any older vehicle that does not use all LEDs in the brake lamps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 (edited) So..instead of wiring in a resistor..couldnt i just wire in a regular bulb and hide it? or..no? You can but why do it that way? I know it's probably the cheapest way but it seems like more trouble than it's worth. Why not just get a different flasher that's made for LEDs? Edited December 16, 2011 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 You can but why do it that way? I know it's probably the cheapest way but it seems like more trouble than it's worth. Why not just get a different flasher that's made for LEDs? I agree. An electronic flasher is $13 at AAP, and slightly cheaper if ordered online with a discount code then picked up in store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 (edited) There is also a similar issue relating to replacing all of the brake bulbs with LEDs. The vehicle thinks all of the stop lamps are out due to the low current draw, so cruise control doesn't work and I think there was some other side effect. A fix is to replace one of the 9 LED bulbs in the center high mounted stop lamp with an incandescent bulb. I'm fairly sure this issue would occur on any older vehicle that does not use all LEDs in the brake lamps. I doubt the brake lights will affect the cruise control. I would double check with the FSM for that though. Edited December 16, 2011 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 (edited) I doubt the brake lights will affect the cruise control. I did not remember correctly. According to this anecdotal post, cruise control disengaged when a turn signal was hit due to leakage current somewhere in the circuit. I must have mixed up the issue with the stop lamp switch being faulty resulting in cruise not working with that explanation. I did check the FSM, but it didn't really mention failure modes of the stop lamp switch. Edited December 16, 2011 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Some of that is correct, some cars really do nag you about burned out stop lamps and head lights. I wasn't sure if WD21s did that but I don't remember them complaining in any way if one of the lights are out. Sometimes it can even be a pain to check for burned out stop lamps if you have no one around to push down on the pedal. Then again there is always that ice scraper against the seat and brake pedal trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 WD21's have a switch on the brake pedal, and clutch pedal if so equipped. current to the brake lights should not affect the cruise control. I do wish the WD21 had a light out indicator, it's something my 87 200sx has and it seems really handy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 My 300 had that as well, was nice. There's a lot Nissan didn't put in Pathfinders that they used on other cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Or you can purchase an electronic flasher. I've been wondering why no one tried an electronic flasher yet. Does the pathfinder take a regular two prong flasher? I used to replace them on big trucks, they could add all the lights they wanted and it would still flash at the same rate. Since I'm old this was back in the day before anyone in automotive knew what an LED was. Some drivers added so many lights to their rig (they called them chicken lights) they kept burning alternators and would end up having to buy $1000 alternators that pushed over 500 amps. Thats a lot of money just to look like a christmas tree rolling down the road! James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Truckers have switched to LEDs for that reason! As far as I know it should be a regular flasher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 (edited) I linked to a supposedly compatible electronic flasher for a 1995 Pathfinder on the previous page. Edited December 17, 2011 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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