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So I guess now would be a good time to change that #6 plug?


1994SEV6
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SO, I got this amazing idea. I've heard here and there how much of an "Adventure" the #6 spark plug is to change. EEK. I haven't looked and intentionally noticed it's position (from the top), so I'll have to take people's word for it.

 

My idea is, since I have my transmission out, and it's so easy to get to the spark plug, wouldn't it be a good idea to do it now? When I say "do it now" I just mean that one spark plug. At this point, I've done so much that I don't even feel like doing a tune-up right now. On top of that, I'm starting to be come strapped on cash. How should I do this? I know it sounds a little.."ghetto" to just do the one spark plug, but I'm more worried about getting it running as soon as possible.

 

My questions are: where is the hard part? Is it hard to get the spark plug boot off properly, and THEN getting to the plug? or is the plug the ONLY hard part and the boot is easy to remove/replace?

I'm thinking if the boot is easy, then I'll just do the one and replace the rest later, but if the boot is hard, then I could either replace the wire or just not worry about it right now.

 

I was looking at the picture in the preview, and I noticed a random hose kinda chillin'. Is it disconnected or is that just an illusion? I tried to circle it, but editing in Photobucket is less than generous.

2011-12-09140057-1-1.jpg

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There isn't any adventure to changing plug #6. The wire comes off as easily as any other. You may need to use a couple of extensions to reach it properly. The only real trick is trying to get the new plug started. Use a spark plug socket to start the plug, or put a wrap of electrical tape around the outside of a regular socket(or the factory spark plug tool)just enough around the edge so the plug wont just slide out. Once you get the plug started, pull the socket off, remove the tape, and torque the plug down per spec. If you need to use multiple extensions to get the socket onto the hex portion of the plug, wrap a few turns of electrical tape around any connection you can't reach, so the socket won't come off the extensions and the extensions themselves don't come apart. Also, if you have access to compressed air, use a nozzle to blow all the grit out of the plug wells before you remove them so the dirt doesn't end up in your cylinders. Put anti-seize on the plug threads, and spread a dab of electrical grease on the inside of the plug wire boots so they don't stick next time.

Edited by RJSquirrel
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There isn't any adventure to changing plug #6. The wire comes off as easily as any other. You may need to use a couple of extensions to reach it properly. The only real trick is trying to get the new plug started. Use a spark plug socket to start the plug, or put a wrap of electrical tape around the outside of a regular socket(or the factory spark plug tool)just enough around the edge so the plug wont just slide out. Once you get the plug started, pull the socket off, remove the tape, and torque the plug down per spec. If you need to use multiple extensions to get the socket onto the hex portion of the plug, wrap a few turns of electrical tape around any connection you can't reach, so the socket won't come off the extensions and the extensions themselves don't come apart. Also, if you have access to compressed air, use a nozzle to blow all the grit out of the plug wells before you remove them so the dirt doesn't end up in your cylinders. Put anti-seize on the plug threads, and spread a dab of electrical grease on the inside of the plug wire boots so they don't stick next time.

I think you're missing the hilarity of the situation.

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Laughable to do just one plug, NGK's (use v-power or standard G-powers). BP5EY or BP6ES 6 of them sould only run you $12-$15.

Now that hose is NOT foating there. its clamped to that aluminum pipe, its a 'T' right there that I belive runs to your throttle body. Your dotted line (bottom right) crosses right over the T for the return line.

 

 

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