tarzan15 Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Hi guys. Long time reader, first time poster. Thanks for letting me lurk on your forums and pick up a bunch of great tips. 1994 Pathfinder SE Apparently it has all of the options for that year. Leather seats, and seat warmers to name a few. Over the past few years (before I owned it) the seats took quite a beating, and now they look like crap. I picked up some 1995 seats (non-leather) from a junkyard, and I plan on putting seat warmers back into the seats. That being said - along with the current seats being hashed, the seat warmers got hashed too, and they no longer work. Have you guys put seat warmers in your pathfinders, and if so... I'm looking for a cheap option (I'm a college student) to get me by without sacrificing quality. Anything you guys suggest? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 I read something recently about heated cloth seats, so it's probably possible. I imagine you'd have to tear into it a bit, though; when I pulled my seats out they didn't look like they'd really come apart without some degree of seam ripping. I didn't try, though, so maybe it's easy and I just don't know. You can get seat heating pads from various sources, like electric blankets only 12v, some of which look like they could be sewn in. They probably wouldn't be difficult to splice into the factory wiring. Or, for a quick-and-easy, just get some kind of over-the-seat pad and call it good. Bonus, if it's lumpy or doesn't work right, it's not sewn in. Or, you know, don't bother. I've got the cloth seats in my 95 and they don't transfer heat the way leather seats do. The steering wheel gets pretty cold, but that's about it. Also, welcome. I lurk a lot too, only I can't keep my mouth shut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tarzan15 Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 Yeah, I can understand why they were only put into the leather seats. That being said- then I'll have two switches that don't do anything... I'm OCD enough that I don't know how well that will fly with me. Man, you should see this pathfinder. It'd make grown men cry. Who knows the last time they changed the spark plugs before I did. One of the spark plugs wasn't even screwed in all of the way. The fuel filter was rusted... I laughed when I saw it. New cap and rotor, plugs, wires, and a few other things. Not even close to done on it - but it definitely sounds a lot better than when I got it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 To ease the OCD, you can pick up blanking plates from a Pathy console in a junkyard. I'm not sure if they're the same plates between the square dash (93 and back) WDs and the round dash (94 and 95), so see if you can find a round dash. Mine's got two blanking plates in it where the seat heat switches would be, if it was so equipped. You can just pop out the switches and pop in the plates, and it looks OEM. Good to hear you're getting it back together. How's the frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tarzan15 Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 Replaced the driver's side seatbelt, driver's side wheelwell plastic rim (they wrecked the car and broke it in half), and the cloth seats were all replaced today. They also put in an after-market alarm system. They ripped about half of it out after they learned that it was draining the battery. I removed the other half today. The brake master cylinder is leaking, so I'm going to have to replace that. Anybody have tricks for that where I wouldn't have to bleed the brakes? The idler pully is squeaking. The power doors don't work at all (although at random times they will lock). I'm wondering if it's the door lock timer. The driver's side door controls are about half there. The door lock doesn't work as I've said before. It doesn't roll up the passenger window, but it rolls it down. Ideas? (by the way... I hate the wood paneling on my interior. bad bad bad idea.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tarzan15 Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 by the way... the frame looks good. Especially considering this is a Utah car where the salt cakes the roads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 by the way... the frame looks good. Especially considering this is a Utah car where the salt cakes the roads. It's not the salt. It's the salt and water. When you mix salt and water you get an acid, which eats the metal from UNDER the paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 A salt water solution is basically totally neutral. Salt water speeds up corrosion because it has a higher conductivity than regular water. But there is moisture in the air everywhere, so even "dry salt" will be bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 Check fuses/plugs. The timer's pretty easy to get at and resolder. I've done it on mine, but it wasn't the problem. When I got the truck, the driver's lock didn't work at all. The little baffle inside had busted off and enough crud had gotten into the mechanism to stop it up. Also, it sometimes locked the doors when I shut one of them. So what'd I do? I blew a bunch of graphite into the driver's lock mechanism. It works now, but half the time the lock solenoid fights against the key, and when I hit unlock sometimes it'll unlock, lock again, sometimes repeat a couple times. So, I'm not sure what to tell you, only don't do what I did. The windows often get slow over time. I've heard a little silicone spray in the tracks works wonders. Mine are slow, but still work, so I haven't tried it yet. Good to hear the frame's solid. My understanding is that it's the dirt accumulation that's the problem: it holds the salty water against the metal longer, plugs the drain holes, and rusts it out. I suspect lousy metal plays a part, though, because I've seen car frames from the 40s embedded in river banks with less rot than some of the Pathys/HBs on here. Also, wood? Didn't know they did that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tarzan15 Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 Yes wood. Problem is - that the people before me left the windows down during rainstorms - and it made the "wood" paneling look like crap. Here's a quick picture that I snapped of the passenger's side door before I got out this morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Yes wood. Problem is - that the people before me left the windows down during rainstorms - and it made the "wood" paneling look like crap. Here's a quick picture that I snapped of the passenger's side door before I got out this morning. i think those are part of that ebay set of wood stickers for the interior they have a whole bunch of them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Looks like a little citrustrip or denatured alcohol would fix those right up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tarzan15 Posted December 9, 2011 Author Share Posted December 9, 2011 I agree with that. The back ones don't look nearly as bad as that one... but once they've cracked - they're just not nearly as pretty. Eventually I plan on taking them off on a saturday when I don't have anything to do besides sit down and watch TV. It'll give me something to do. Blower motor went out today... no fun driving around when you can't have the heater on in December. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tarzan15 Posted December 9, 2011 Author Share Posted December 9, 2011 by the way edicer - the 280z (preferably a 78) is better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 by the way edicer - the 280z (preferably a 78) is better If you're referring to his picture, that's definitely a 300zx. It says it in his signature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puckstoper9 Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 The driver's side door controls are about half there. The door lock doesn't work as I've said before. It doesn't roll up the passenger window, but it rolls it down. Ideas? I had the same problem with mine. I tried taking the controls apart and cleaning the contacts inside to some success. I noticed that there are some small plastic pieces inside that where badly worn so I ended up buying a new control panel from rockauto. I am now able to control all the windows perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now