Need new rear axle assembly - '93 SE

[deanpence]

A local Nissan dealer (Courtesy) took a look at the rear end of my '93 SE and found cloudy, metal-filled LSD fluid, really loud bearing noises from the LSD, and less noisy wheel bearings. They were quoting me some astronomical prices to get in there and fix or replace the LSD and recommended I look into replacing the entire rear end. I wouldn't mind doing the repair work myself, but I think it's outside my skill set at this point. I hate to be the one guy around here who has to come ask these basic questions, but does this sound kosher? It does appear that, simply from a time, labor, and price perspective, getting a used rear end will be cheaper, but I'm not sure by how much. The guy at Courtesy said it could be up to as much as $3,000 just in parts to fix the LSD and wheel bearings piecemeal, but I can't find any prices that seem to agree with that.

 

Assuming a new rear end is the best option, I have another question. A salvage site I'm looking at (http://mazdanissanheaven.com/Online-Car-Part-Search.html) is asking whether I have a locking or non-locking diff. I was under the impression that WD21s weren't built with locking rear diffs, and unless I'm seriously misunderstanding something, neither an open diff nor an LSD lock at all (without locking hubs or a weld job). So what are they asking?

[sewebster]

You can probably just get a new third member. Probably they are asking whether you have an open diff (open) or LSD ("locking") because those were the only two options and their website is dumb. I guess you might also need side gears.

 

I would likely replace the wheel bearings separately, but maybe it is just easier to pull the whole darn axle out and swap in a new one... dunno.

 

You might find it easier to just call around to junk yards?

[MY1PATH]

If your lsd, differential bearings and axle bearings are ALL shot: I would swap the whole thing brakes and everything from a complete JY unit that will run about $300 - 400.

Hard to imagine ALL of it is bad tho. The rear axle bearings usually last 300k.

A well cared for differential carrier on these rigs can last forever but if the fluid was low or had water in it things could go bad.

 

If its just the differential then just JY third member will do. and that will be under $100. Be sure to change the inner axle seals when you slide them out to swap the 3rd member.

 

 

 

[madhornet]

yeah get a junk yard complete unit just check your door jam gear ratio

1: hg46 or hg43

2: next make sure u match if u have drum brakes or disc

3: decide if u want an lsd or open diff,

u can go either way with the last one LSD is determined if in neutral and t-case in neutral that the both rear wheels turn in the same direction or open diff they spin opposite like i said open diff or LSD is a personal choice

 

and make sure the oil in the rear axle is clean so u dont have a repeat issue i wouldnt rebuild one around hear u can get a junked unit for around $200

[Tungsten]

Now is the time to look into those Xterra axles with higher ratios.

[deanpence]

I don't have the tools to work on this myself. From what I can tell, I would need lots of special tools for removing the axle, removing the wheel bearing, removing the brakes, removing the outer race, installing the oil seal, installing the axle shaft, pressing the wheel bearings, etc.—much less tools for working on the diff itself. It seems like it would be cheaper just to have the dealer install either the diff or the rear end. They gave me a guess of around $450 for installing the entire rear end, though it wasn't a written estimate.

 

You can probably just get a new third member. Probably they are asking whether you have an open diff (open) or LSD ("locking") because those were the only two options and their website is dumb.

 

Yeah, all the salvage websites around here (north Texas) seem to use exactly the same software. They all ask for "locking" or "non-locking". A friend who manages a body shop called Nissan with my VIN, and they said it was "locking", though I guess I don't understand why an LSD is considered "locking" since it always gives more torque to the wheel with the most traction—though I suppose under a lot of circumstances, both wheels have more or less equal traction.

 

I guess you might also need side gears.

 

Aren't the side gears inside the differential case?

 

If your lsd, differential bearings and axle bearings are ALL shot: I would swap the whole thing brakes and everything from a complete JY unit that will run about $300 - 400.

Hard to imagine ALL of it is bad tho. The rear axle bearings usually last 300k.

A well cared for differential carrier on these rigs can last forever but if the fluid was low or had water in it things could go bad.

 

If its just the differential then just JY third member will do. and that will be under $100. Be sure to change the inner axle seals when you slide them out to swap the 3rd member.

 

According to the dealer I took it to for this diagnosis, the diff bearings are the loudest, but the wheel bearings are on the way out as well, just not nearly as badly as the diff bearings. They didn't go as far as to say that the diff itself is bad, but considering the gear oil is cloudy and metal-filled only 2/3 months after I completely changed it, I'd be worried about the diff itself at this point. As far as labor goes, is it actually less labor to swap out the diff instead of the entire rear end? Seems like you have to take the rear end off to replace the diff. It looks like a wash to me.

 

yeah get a junk yard complete unit just check your door jam gear ratio

1: hg46 or hg43

2: next make sure u match if u have drum brakes or disc

3: decide if u want an lsd or open diff,

u can go either way with the last one LSD is determined if in neutral and t-case in neutral that the both rear wheels turn in the same direction or open diff they spin opposite like i said open diff or LSD is a personal choice

 

and make sure the oil in the rear axle is clean so u dont have a repeat issue i wouldnt rebuild one around hear u can get a junked unit for around $200

 

It's an LSD, and I'm replacing with an LSD. I'm not a hardcore off-roader like a lot of folks here.

 

The gear ratio is still eluding me. I see tire size (31x10.5R15), rim size (15x7), tire pressure (26 PSI), and various weights (GVWR: 5150; GAWR FR: 2650; GAWR RR: 2850), but nothing explicitly about the gear ratio. Am I missing something?

[sewebster]

I don't know about the door jam label, but in the engine compartment, on the passenger side, near the back, there should be an info plate. Look for "HG43" or "HG46" the 43 refers to a 4.3:1 gear ratio in the diff and the 46 to 4.6:1 you want to get the same as you already have because the front diff also has that ratio.

[deanpence]

I don't know about the door jam label, but in the engine compartment, on the passenger side, near the back, there should be an info plate. Look for "HG43" or "HG46" the 43 refers to a 4.3:1 gear ratio in the diff and the 46 to 4.6:1 you want to get the same as you already have because the front diff also has that ratio.

 

It's been a while, but you were right on about this. This plate was exactly what I needed.