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Rick thanks for the pointers. i know now what i have to do.

 

No problem. I think a lot of us have done things differently than eachother, but we all talk the same game, so you could probably get quite a few differing opinions on lifts, rims/spacers, tires... Finding what works for you and your situation based on all our opinions/experiences has been interesting and fun for me over the past few years. Good luck.

 

But one more thing, if I could go back in time I would have gone with 3.25" backspace rims (like a Mickey Thompson II) instead of my 3.75" backspace Pro Comp steelies. That makes it quite a bit easier to go to 33"+ in the future...I had to select my 33" tire based on section/tread width and not just what tire I like best (mostly because I don't like spacers/adapters). Yet another opinion based on my personal experiences...

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No problem. I think a lot of us have done things differently than eachother, but we all talk the same game, so you could probably get quite a few differing opinions on lifts, rims/spacers, tires... Finding what works for you and your situation based on all our opinions/experiences has been interesting and fun for me over the past few years. Good luck.

 

But one more thing, if I could go back in time I would have gone with 3.25" backspace rims (like a Mickey Thompson II) instead of my 3.75" backspace Pro Comp steelies. That makes it quite a bit easier to go to 33"+ in the future...I had to select my 33" tire based on section/tread width and not just what tire I like best (mostly because I don't like spacers/adapters). Yet another opinion based on my personal experiences...

Ok thanks for all your advice.

 

I actually just bought my 3.75bs procomp steelies tho, lol. I dont know if ill upgrade to 33's in the future or not, but only time will tell...

 

i did see some steelies that had 2.5bs, but thought that was too much. im not a fan of spacers either...

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Do you mind letting us know about how much it all cost, parts and install? Ill be going the same route at some point cos I need new struts/shocks/springs..and you did what im prolly gonna end up doing..just wanna know how much its gonna hurt :suicide:

ok ill start with the front and work to the back. Mind you i had my new struts put on 2 months ago, didnt think i was going to get the lift as soon as i did, otherwise i would have done it all at once. live and learn tho.

 

Struts - $79.95 each

Strut mounts, bearings, upper and lower seats - $220 (purchased from my local Nissan Dealer)

2" AC lift - $360

2 sets of camber alignment bolts - $60

ProComp ES 3000 shocks - $37.95 each

Miscellaneous bolts, nuts, sleeves - $20

 

I installed the rear coils and shocks myself and took my pathy to my mechanic to install the fronts.

 

Total Costs

 

Parts - $895.80

Installation - $400 (It would have been just $200 had i done it all the first time, lol)

 

Grand Total - $1295.80 (So you should be looking at somewhere around $1100)

 

Thats only the lift. I just bought wheels and ill be getting tires soon. so that will be at least another $900

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No problem. I think a lot of us have done things differently than eachother, but we all talk the same game, so you could probably get quite a few differing opinions on lifts, rims/spacers, tires... Finding what works for you and your situation based on all our opinions/experiences has been interesting and fun for me over the past few years. Good luck.

 

But one more thing, if I could go back in time I would have gone with 3.25" backspace rims (like a Mickey Thompson II) instead of my 3.75" backspace Pro Comp steelies. That makes it quite a bit easier to go to 33"+ in the future...I had to select my 33" tire based on section/tread width and not just what tire I like best (mostly because I don't like spacers/adapters). Yet another opinion based on my personal experiences...

 

 

Hey Rick, I'm about to buy my wheels and tires so I'll have them ready when I install the SFD. Why do you wish you had the 3.25 bs wheels? I was going to get the 3.75 bs and BFG KM2s 285/75-16 which are 33.1". Do you think I should get the 3.25?

 

Also, I need to figure out what I'm going to do for the rear part of the lift. What are you planning on doing? Can't decide if I should get new springs that are long enough or have someone build me some spacers.

 

Cheers,

Kevin

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My best answer? It depends.

 

Personally, my biggest concern was that 3.75" bs wasn't going to be enough to clear the lower coil seat with a typical 33" (285/75/16). My current tires (GY DuraTracs) have a section width of just under 11.5" and a tread width of just under 9" so this picture of my current setup might give you an idea of what you can fit with other 33's:

 

2010-11-21_13-31-37_543.jpg

 

I thought that Mickey T made a rim that had 3.25" but I couldn't find it with a quick web search just now...oh well.

 

I think other people have added longer studs and put a true spacer in. Others have "adapter" spacers (that don't adapt anything, just push the wheel out).

 

My bigger concern with a less backspaced rim than 3.75" would be rubbing from the increase in arc and also (and very importantly) not being able to tuck them out back.

 

So, long story long, the 3.75" may actually be the best bet for our rigs, not sure, just my experience. I really like that it only sticks out just enough that you can view your tire position and gives it a nice stance.

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:suicide: :suicide: :suicide: :suicide: looks like my suspension upgrade/lift is a long ways off. Thank though :)

Thats how the numbers worked for me when i ran them. I am sure had I bought the lift package (check 4x4parts.com) I could have saved a couple hundred bucks.

 

I believe there are different packages that range from $680 to $800ish...

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Oh yeah, after all that rambling...

 

I actually ended up ordering the bolt-on coil perch adapter from Krypton Fab (Shift220). I have the ES9000 rear shocks (Manuf #929500). I ordered/received the WJ 4" lift coils. I still need the longer brake line and figure something out regarding the PHD bar bracket. I'll post up once I get it all installed. Plan on taking photos and making a new topic for it.

 

Uh oh, my apologies... :jacked:

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Oh yeah, after all that rambling...

 

I actually ended up ordering the bolt-on coil perch adapter from Krypton Fab (Shift220). I have the ES9000 rear shocks (Manuf #929500). I ordered/received the WJ 4" lift coils. I still need the longer brake line and figure something out regarding the PHD bar bracket. I'll post up once I get it all installed. Plan on taking photos and making a new topic for it.

 

Uh oh, my apologies... :jacked:

:itsallgood:

It gives me good ideas when others talk about their projects :aok:

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well i ordered my new wheels a few days ago. Black steel ProComp Rock Crawler Series 87. Ordered from 4wheelparts.com...Was hoping to get them within 2 weeks but was told they are about 4-6 weeks out. I guess 3.75bs isnt popular so they still have to be made. Figured i'd wait and get the 3.75bs now instead of a 4bs or 4.25bs so in the future if i wanted to get bigger tires i can.

 

procomp.jpg

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Looking at ricks picture again makes me think that if you went with a deeper backspace there could be a good chance that 33 would touch the strut. I mean a 4 or 4.25 would shove the tire towards the engine and cause contact. 3.75 does appear to be ideal for the 33.

Edited by snow4me
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Nice. Those were a bit more expensive than mine (from 4 Wheel Parts also) but I think they look a lot better!

Thanks. Those were the only series online i could get with 3.75bs...haha. I am sure i could have special ordered a different series type, but i like this series the best! :jig:

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Yeah, I've read that thread which is why I researched tires so thoroughly before purchase (mine are just under 11.5" wide section width).

 

No matter what a person chooses, I'd suggest a test fit prior to purchase. I had one test fit and found it to be well worth it.

Edited by Rick13
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Now I'm really confused! The lower the number like 3.75 or 3.25 should stick the tire out past the fender making for a wider stance, no? If you had a 4.25 or 4.5 it should push the tire in closer to the strut, no?

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Rereading 01's thread on tucking the 33, I see what he means...kinda. Ideally you need the rear to have deeper backspacing than the front. It looks like any less backspacing in the rear would have the rear tire hit the rear quarter panel under full suspension compression.

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Rereading 01's thread on tucking the 33, I see what he means...kinda. Ideally you need the rear to have deeper backspacing than the front. It looks like any less backspacing in the rear would have the rear tire hit the rear quarter panel under full suspension compression.

 

Exactly, which is why I have wheel spacers in the front only. I can post a pic tomorrow of the clearance I have between the tire and the strut....its not much. It also varies by tire...some have a wider sidebite area and the rim width also varies in how wide the actual tire will be. And yes, the higher the backspace is the closer in it will be...a 4.25 bs will be closer to the strut than a 3.75

Edited by 01silvapathy
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Exactly, which is why I have wheel spacers in the front only. I can post a pic tomorrow of the clearance I have between the tire and the strut....its not much. It also varies by tire...some have a wider sidebite area and the rim width also varies in how wide the actual tire will be. And yes, the higher the backspace is the closer in it will be...a 4.25 bs will be closer to the strut than a 3.75

 

Awesome, now we're getting somewhere. Curiously to see what Rick's rear tire clearance looks like under compression. You cannot deny that his 3.75 BS is working up front with that Duratrac 285/75/16 =33 inch can you? That is the exact tire I'm looking at. Daryl.

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To top this all off, phantom could have made more trouble not less by ordering the 3.75 BS wheels for if he later chooses to go 285's = 33's. He will probably rub in the rear. I'm new to this but I am hoping these questions and thoughts are contributing to the forum and not making things more confusing. Seems to me, if you want 33's you are going to at least need the factory BS and maybe a tad more since your new wheel will probably be 8" wide, not the stock 7". The front however will need to be minimum 3.75 plus a serious look are your tires section width. Obviously Rick has proved that the 3.75 BS works on the front with his tire of choice, the 285/75/16 GY Duratrac. I need sleep. Please correct me if I'm wrong or delete me off. :-)

Edited by snow4me
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Yeah, this is why we shouldn't have :jacked: this topic and confused it with what to do with a SFD.

 

My original post was only concerning what I ran with a 2" AC lift - 3.75" bs rims with 31" AT's (even though I think a 32" tire of a certain diameter/width would also work fine). That's pretty simple.

 

The next question I responded to was concerning plans for a SFD. After the I installed the SFD I decided to run the same backspaced rims as before but with the larger 33" tires, BUT it took a TON of research and 1 test fitment to confirm it could be done. I also mentioned in that post that I'd be very concerned about going beyond 3.75" bs because of the turning arc (and rubbing) and tucking during rear flex.

 

I was NOT suggesting running 33's with the 3.75" bs rim with only the 2" lift. I know you did it quite successfully Andrew, but I just have no experience with that so I don't even want to comment on it.

 

Again, these are two separate topics combined in to one post (which might help someone who plans to transition from an 2" coil lift to the SFD), but otherwise I'm affraid it will only confuse those who have no plans to go SFD nor have they been researching this stuff for the past 24 months...I realized it a page of posts ago that I should have PM'd my responses, it would have been cleaner. My apologies.

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