Hawzzy Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 O.K....bought new pads today...could here that obvious "sound" that said it was necessary. When i pulled off the wheel (psgr side) and then the caliper/pads...noticed that the lower slide pin is seized and my pads were worn VERY uneven....I cant for the life of me get that pin to come out...what is the quickest/cheapest fix here...can i get just the caliper mounting bracket that the slide pin is in??? Oh ya one of the cylinders in the caliper is seized too...can i fix it or just get new ones??? I need to get this done ASAP gotta get out and back to work. tye I dont want to cheap out in exchange for safety so ill do whatever necessary!!!!!!!! HELP PLEASE!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 (edited) I'd say just replace your calipers. Shouldn't be too expensive. The swap is pretty easy, just unbolt the two bolts holding the caliper on and unscrew the brake line. Reverse to install the new one. You'll have to bleed the brakes... so having help would be nice. Check your rotors too, quite likely for them to be damaged/destroyed by a malfunctioning caliper like that. They are shockingly cheap. Edited November 23, 2010 by sewebster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 x2 if you are having that much trouble with them. Rock Auto has everything from new calipers/pad sets to rebuild kits, to slide pin boots... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frozenrotors Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 (edited) O.K....bought new pads today...could here that obvious "sound" that said it was necessary. When i pulled off the wheel (psgr side) and then the caliper/pads...noticed that the lower slide pin is seized and my pads were worn VERY uneven....I cant for the life of me get that pin to come out...what is the quickest/cheapest fix here...can i get just the caliper mounting bracket that the slide pin is in??? Oh ya one of the cylinders in the caliper is seized too...can i fix it or just get new ones??? I need to get this done ASAP gotta get out and back to work. tye I dont want to cheap out in exchange for safety so ill do whatever necessary!!!!!!!! HELP PLEASE!!!!!!! Hi Hawzzy, When you say"that the lower slide pin is seized" does the actual caliper come off of the carrier (the carrier mounts to the lower hub assy.) the caliper is suppose to slide back and forth on those carrier pins. If the caliper came off the carrier, then I'd consider replacing BOTH calipers, with re-built units. If you'd like, I can give you an idea what the cost of calipers and pads would run. Send me a PM on this site or contact me direct by emailing me at My link Hope this helps, Keith Frozenrotors 14310-Ewing Ave. STE 100 Burnsville, MN 55306 1-888-323-8456/952-746-8880 My link Edited November 23, 2010 by frozenrotors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 (edited) i would go to a u pull or a junk yard and get new calipers or buy re built ones I wont bother with leaking ones at all. If it was just the slide pin i would fight with it somemore and all of them when it was out (i do this evertime anyways and grease the @!*% out of them whenever i change the brakes pads) but since you cant get it i would just buy new ones. Your best bet is a parts store for the same day fix or if not a big rush then online but it will cost you more from a store. Edited November 23, 2010 by edicer2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frozenrotors Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 Keep in mind. You need to use HI-Temp brake grease on ALL brake parts getting lubed. Keith My link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawzzy Posted November 23, 2010 Author Share Posted November 23, 2010 Thanx for the quick resp...i think im ordering new calipers for the morn... rotors too, they are needed! One cliper has a seized piston too..sooooo ill just replace em both...DAMNIT!!!!! Tye Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frozenrotors Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 Thanx for the quick resp...i think im ordering new calipers for the morn... rotors too, they are needed! One cliper has a seized piston too..sooooo ill just replace em both...DAMNIT!!!!! Tye Hi Tye, I can offer you a 10% discount on pads and our Frozen rotors, which are cryogeniclly treated. They will last much,much longer than the over the counter rotors that are un-treated. I am actually offering a discount to ALL the users of this forum. 15% off on 2 axle sets of pads and rotors (treated). And 10% off 1 axle set of pads and treated rotors. 1 axle set = both front(left and right)or 2 axle set, both front and rears (left and right). Let me know if you'd like prices. Keith My link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 Keep in mind. You need to use HI-Temp brake grease on ALL brake parts getting lubed. Keith My link yeah most parts stores sell the high temp brake lube stuff in the little packets for like 50 cents each when ur at the register. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawzzy Posted November 24, 2010 Author Share Posted November 24, 2010 Got it guys...thanx...FrozenRotors...ill pm you bout the rotors and pads soon K? High temp lube good!!! I HAVENT EVEN CHECKED OUT THE DRIVERS SIDE YET...STARTED RAINING/SNOWING AND WINDY AS HELL YESTERDAY. Oh happy pathfinder...y i dont drive you off a cliff.......i'll never know!!!! Tye Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawzzy Posted November 24, 2010 Author Share Posted November 24, 2010 (edited) OHHHHHH....gets better for me now!!!!!! Couldnt find 1/2" drive ratchet...used 3/8 to remove caliper carrier mounting bolts...BROKE IT...Got another one...heated it... penetrating fluid...HAMMER...and a 6 ft long bar...BROKE IT TOO!!! CRAP!!!!! Oh and this tops it all........ARGH....noticed some movement in my psgr strut (up top) took off the rubber bung (plug) to find some play in the nut/bolt combo holding the strut together AND its movement has worn a sloppy hole in the top of the mount im sure!!!!! I dont know how this happened...my neighbour was in control of the torque wrench...thats how he lets me borrow stuff and i dont own a torque wrench. sooooo dont know if it wasnt torqued down enuff or what???? PICS TO FOLLOW SOON!!!!! Crap!!!!! Can i SOMEHOW get that nut cranked back down and torqued without taking the strut out and compressing the strut etc etc....???? I just tightened it till it made contact with the mount then the shaft spins with it... DANGEROUS CRAP EH??? The hole in the top of the mount has...or in this case HAD a flat spot just like the top of the strut shaft right???? Tye In the pics you can see how the nut isnt in the centre and there is a pile of metal dust in the corner! Edited November 24, 2010 by Precise1 made photos display Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 You broke two ratchets? Might want to try a better brand... and possibly more heat. Did you just wear out a rubber bushing for the strut mount and that's why there is play? I'm not familiar with the later model pathy, sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frozenrotors Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 You broke two ratchets? Might want to try a better brand... and possibly more heat. Did you just wear out a rubber bushing for the strut mount and that's why there is play? I'm not familiar with the later model pathy, sorry. Use a BREAKER BAR ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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