GoPathyGo Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 Ok, so after getting a few PM questions about my SAS I thought I'd start this thread. That way, it benefits everyone who's interested. As you may know, I've SASed my 2003 R50. Details on the components are in my build thread. This is more to address questions and provide info on issues. I am taking the Pathy back from the shop that did the SAS and finishing it myself since they don't seem to be able to finish it up. The finishing items are things like PS boost, ABS/AWD sensor and programming, brake pressure etc. I will post some of the issues I've run into later today. But feel free to post any questions and I'll do my best to answer. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 FINALLY! hahaha Ok, so I'm probably going to ask the most basic questions just so I can bring this project down from the clouds, into reality. So I have my 1988 Jeep Wogoneer (waggy) axle. What do I do about steering? I know the "Rack and Peanut" steering won't work. what did you do for it? Also, did you have to do anything with the R50 driveshaft or crossmember? Lengthen it to allow for the added movement of your front end? and this AWD problem you're having shouldn't effect my '98 LE should it? Jeez I have so many questions its not funny. I feel like I'm going to go with a 3 link up front. So if anyone knows what coilover's I should be looking at, don't be afraid to post up part numbers, etc. :-) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 (edited) I can answer the awd question....as far as I know he was having an issue with his tcase since its aa atx14 with the all mode. You should be fine, Rod since you have the tx10. The other thing that I saw with your sas gpg is that front driveshaft angle that you had. It looked to be pretty extreme, is there any way that you could possibly push the axle forward? It would for sure be easier for you to do this, rod since you will be going with a linked set up...just make the links longer and all you would have to do is find a way to mount the coilovers. In gpg's situation since he is leaf sprung its alot harder to locate the axle further up since he has to have shackles up front. It wouldnt be an issue if thee r50 had a frame Edit: The trend I have noticed is that most who have gone our route (2in lift, then sfd) have eventually gone ahead and done a sas. (tmorgan, gpg even tho he didnt have a sfd, and now you rod) Maybe I will be lucky enough to get the skill to do one and the funds aswell. Until then I will sit back and watch and tune in if I have ideas Edited November 23, 2010 by 01silvapathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted November 23, 2010 Author Share Posted November 23, 2010 The steering box was replaced, too; think it was the waggy box actually. Pump's the stock Nissan pump BUT the problem is that at low speeds it doesn't provide enough boost. Not good when wheeling. There was a solenoid that may have been triggering the pump to provide more boost, but the shop was having a hard time figuring out how to wire it in. So they ended up boring out the pump instead and adjusting the pressure so, in essence, you're at high boost all the time. Rear driveshaft stayed the same. Used old Wrangler 6" lift coils to get the rear to match up with the front leafs but the stock driveshaft had no probs. Front driveshaft angle is terrible. Once I get it back I may go for a double-jointed setup to relieve the strain. Would have to be a custom job but desertrunners do it. No way to move the axle forward because of the location of the steering box and, well, the rest of the front end. Re AWD, yeah, 01SilvaPathy's right. I have the All-Mode and, right now, we suspect the lack of front ABS feedback is causing the computer to send power to the front. They tried splicing Jeep ABS sensors in but that didn't work. (Duh.) An electrical guy I spoke with said a lot would depend on how the Nissan ABS is set up. If it's resistance-based, might be hard to calibrate. I may go the old tech route and just pull the fuse. This should not be a problem with a manual t-case. The brakes suck. And I mean SUCK. Gonna bleed 'em myself but right now my '99 Altima with no pads and rusted rotors stopped better than the Pathy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted November 23, 2010 Author Share Posted November 23, 2010 I should add that if I was doing it again, I'd probably go coils. The problem was matching the coils with the required axle length and lift setup. We skipped doing a Super Duty-style Dana 60 because it was too wide and chopping it + matching the U-joints and shafts and blah blah was going to be a really difficult job. But, looking back, if I could have used it I would. Would have got ABS in the bargain. Heck, looking back, I'm wondering if I shouldn't have just put a Nissan axle up front. Oh well. Next project! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 You could go with a full hydro setup to get rid of the steering box and all that crap. That would allow you to push forward the axle more to help alleviate some of that angle on the front ds. Full hydro may not be a good setup for dd'ing but for a weekend wheeler I would have no hesitation to use it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted November 23, 2010 Author Share Posted November 23, 2010 You could go with a full hydro setup to get rid of the steering box and all that crap. That would allow you to push forward the axle more to help alleviate some of that angle on the front ds. Full hydro may not be a good setup for dd'ing but for a weekend wheeler I would have no hesitation to use it. Front-end too heavy with the axle, 35s, reinforcements etc. Was difficult enough to move with some boost, let alone none... Plus this thing needs to pass inspection or else the wife is gonna make me sell it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 anyway you could post some pics of the steering box and link set-up? I stole the ones off of your actual build page. But I couldn't see how you mounted the box/pitman arm, etc. I'm not going full hydro for a couple reasons. I don't have the money, and I don't want the lag in the steering. It would be pretty funny to get hit with a cross wind and end up in oncoming traffic, run over a few "Canadians" before returning to my lane... Not worth it right now for me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted November 23, 2010 Author Share Posted November 23, 2010 anyway you could post some pics of the steering box and link set-up? I stole the ones off of your actual build page. But I couldn't see how you mounted the box/pitman arm, etc. I'm not going full hydro for a couple reasons. I don't have the money, and I don't want the lag in the steering. It would be pretty funny to get hit with a cross wind and end up in oncoming traffic, run over a few "Canadians" before returning to my lane... Not worth it right now for me. Sure, once I get it back. Expense was a big part of not going full hydro. The front end is heavy and bulky enough - and the steering needs to be reliable enough - that getting a beefy system and adding that to the mix was proving very expensive. Plus the whole street legal part... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 Wow...don't know how I missed this! I'm really glad to see this being done! And yours is being completed at warp speed compared to mine. Sorry if I'm asking repetitive questions, but I'd really like to help you fix your issues and get this thing on the road. After looking through the FSM, it looks like the ABS on your 2003 was just like the ABS on my 2000. It's rare that you can just hook up a sensor from another vehicle and have the system work like it should. Whether your ABS, TCS, and VDC system ever work again depends on getting ABS sensors hooked up. If it were me, I'd pull the fuse and dash lights. You can surely get it to work, but it's going to cost you a fair amount of $$$ and obviously more time. I'm assuming you're still running the OEM power steering pump? Couple options for steering. Hopefully the pump didn't get screwed up when the shop messed with it. You can try over driving the pump a little bit with a new pulley that's a little smaller than the stock pulley. You could also have a shop that specializes in this type of modification look at it and see if they're willing to work on it. The absolute best idea would be to swap the pump for a pump that will move more fluid with a higher bypass pressure. PSC Motorsports is a FANTASTIC shop that specializes in steering systems and they build great pumps. This would mean building a new mount for the pump but after doing it 4 or 5 times it's not as difficult as I used to think to get all the pulleys lined up perfectly. What front calipers are you using? Factory waggy D44? First step would be to make sure the brakes are bled well but I'm thinking it's still going to have a soft pedal. The master cylinder bore needs to be upgraded to a larger unit that will move more fluid if you're using calipers with bigger pistons than stock. Other Nissan guys have had luck swapping in Dodge master cylinders and some others. Good info on Nissan4Wheelers.com. Your stock bore is 1.0" and the stock calipers have 2 1.75" pistons. Front driveshaft....You're going to need a CV driveshaft. This will mean a fair amount of modification to the axle and spring perches because your pinion will need to be pointed at the t-case output. Once you rotate the axle that far forward, you'll have to cut the inner axle C's off and rotate them to have a suitable amount of caster or your steering will not want to return to center. High Angle Driveline is very good. You could send him that picture and he could probably tell you a lot more about what you need than I can. Good luck! I want to see pictures of this out 4wheeling soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted November 24, 2010 Author Share Posted November 24, 2010 Awesome suggestions! Thanks man! This will get me started and gives me some hope. I think the guy who did it has just run out of gas and doesn't know or isn't interested in finishing. That's fine - I just won't pay him the full price. Agree on the Jeep ABS sensors. When he told me that, I was like,"What ??" I don't actually care about VDC/ABS etc. In fact, with the new setup, I don't want the computer butting in and doing things that are OK for a stock vehicle but may have strange results on a modified rig. Re Pump, pulley idea is brilliant. Pump'd wear out faster but I can get those at the local pick-a-part pretty easily. I was also thinking about checking out the mounts on a Titan and seeing if I could bolt in a Titan pump, assuming it's larger. Calipers and pads are whatever cheapie units he could get. The piston diameter on the caliper is pretty good, but a twin or even four piston setup might be better. For the kind of rockcrawling I'd like to do, brakes are going to be critical and I don't want to cheap out only to find myself at the bottom of a hill a**-end up. Since it's now a D44 front, there are a lot more aftermarket options... Check out my build thread (J's work in progress) for pics of the mods etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 I didnt even know that the r50's came with VDC/TCS...atleast mine does not have it....if it does its broken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Ok I got my Waggy axle removed from its donor "Nissan" haha I'm going to move on to the three link set-up. Before I do, any tips to "refreshing" the axle I have? Bearings, seals, etc? If you have part numbers that would be awesome. But just a general part list would work :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 GoPathy! Hows things going with the truck? I haven't gotten far (stupid Bathroom Reno) Anyone have ideas on Brand/Length/travel of coilover I should look for/Price-out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KentDub Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 (edited) I am pretty interested in seeing this build. I also have an R50, and am going to drop a W44 up front. I have built buggy XJ's and ZJ's fitting 40's on all, and want to stuff 37's under my R50. Please post progress as much as possible. I will be doing a ZJ spring swap this weekend in the rear, and be doing YJ 2"SOA leafs up front. I use 1/4" plate for all of my cross members etc, I will begin a build thread asap. Again, post up as much as you can, I will be following. Thanks Edited February 26, 2011 by KentDub Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bro_die Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Okay this will probably be the most stupid question but what car or truck can I get a donor axle from to do a solid axles swap? I really would like to be the first one on island to do a pthfinder the represent the nissans out here because majority is all toyotas and jeeps no nissans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bro_die Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 So??? What other truck can I get as a donor for the solid axleswap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
180sx Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 you can get any axle you want. Money wise, waganeer is ideal. post 95 dodges can be done. older ford f-250s, can be used (wide, though) and if you use newer F250's the outers would need chevy equivilents. well, even broncos could be used, although they are 5 lug, not 6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KentDub Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 I would use a Wagoneer 44, it is a relatively strong axle, was put under a heavier rig than the R50. I ran one under a 350hp V8 swapped XJ with 40's, and I never had any issues. Build your links properly or swap the right leafs if you are going that route. All should work well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 I have the Waggy Axle (1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer). So many parts available for both OEM replacement and Upgrades. Heres what I have so far. *Should* be done by this weekend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 more pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 More to come, I gotta get the coilovers and steering locked down, get the axles back in and back on the wheels. THEN I'll take pics, post specs and whatnot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Sweet man, cant wait to see it done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Why? You sold your R50... Quiter :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Why? You sold your R50... Quiter :-) I was thinking about it til I got the right strut spacers on so it holds an alignment and does not eat tires. And got new tires which I love. Im never going to sell it man that was just a phase lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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