jjeffri Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 I need to replace my water pump on my 96 pathy, it overheated on the freeway the other day and is spewing coolant. According to my Haynes manual, I need to remove the crankshaft pulley, presumable to remove the lower timing belt cover. After that I should have access to the water pump right? Now I have all of the belts off, how do I remove the crankshaft pulley? I have a 12" breaker bar with a 1-1/16" socket, which seems to fit the nut or bolt on the pulley. However, if I turn the bolt/nut the pulley (and presumably the crankshaft) turn also. Here is another question, since I am not changing the timing belts, I won't touch them, but do I need to worry about the crankshaft rotating? Thanks for any help/advice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardwaretoad Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 since I am not changing the timing belts, I won't touch them IMHO, you want to change that belt while you're in there. First reason is that antifreeze will attack it, accelerating failure, or so I've been told. The other reason is common sense ~ as long as you're in there, spend a few extra bucks & do it. It'd be like pulling the tranny to replace the T/O bearing and not replacing the clutch/pressure plate while it's torn down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjeffri Posted October 26, 2004 Author Share Posted October 26, 2004 The bolts that secure the water pump to the block are hidden under the lower timing belt cover. The lower timing belt cover is held on by several bolts and the pulley as far as I can tell. I had to loosen the upper timing belt cover, but couldn't remove it because what appears to be an AC line is in the way, so that I can remove the lower cover. I am a little concerned about messing with the timing belt, it seems like I could easily mess that one up. I will look into how difficult it is from your suggestion. -J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgly Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 He is correct - change the timing belt while you're there - extra $40 (or so). I have changed by timing belt & water pump with no prev experience - used Haynes book and comon sense. Your original question - you should be able to unscrew the crankshaft bolt by simply using an air gun (just crank up the psi). You could also use a strap wrench to hold on to it while using a air gun. You will have to pull the crankshaft pulley off - it should come by itself; mine didnt, I had to use a pulley puller. NOTE, if you use a puller to remove the pulley, make sure you remove the bushing that the bolt goes through. If you dont, you will end up retightening the bolt and pulling on the pulley, and sooner or later - pop, and thats not a good sound. TIMING BELT Changing TIPS- >Rotate the crankshaft pulley bolt till you see #1 piston at TDC Do this by removing your distributor cap, when the rotor points to where the #1 spark plug is, you are there (because it really doesnt matter if the cylinder is TOP dead center or BOTTOM dead center - either way its in the correct position) >When you remove the crankshaft pulley & surrounding parts & covers you will expose the timing belt (and H2O pump behind). Note, you should see dimples on each cam shaft and crank shaft pulley/sprocket. These should be aligned to dimples in the case next to it (if you correctly moved #1 piston as above) >Remove tension from tensioner and remove old belt. >Install new belt with white marks on belt corresponding to dimples on sprockets - DOUBLE/TRIPLE CHECK THAT ALL THREE LINE UP >Let the tensioner back into free standing position and that should provide the correct amount of tension (according to a Nissan Mechanic I asked) - in Haynes book it does say to place some specific thickness feelergage before between tensioner and belt - but think you could do it either way. Again double check the white marks on the new belt match the dimples on the pulleys/sprocket & cases >When all is said and done you have to tighten up the crankshaft bolt to a high ft-lb. I used a strap wrench and held on for dear life as my buddy used a 3ft torque wrench and pulled for all he was worth. Im told you could also just crank up an air gun and let it rip, but I didnt do it this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 You can use one of these to hold the crank pulley in place while you loosen or tighten the crank bolt. I have one that has a v-belt instead of a strap belt, cause my engine has v-belt pulleys. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=91937 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgranch Posted October 28, 2004 Share Posted October 28, 2004 First, the thread on changing the timing belt by 88 done a long time ago is excellent. It has pictures and everything. Second. the best way to hold an engine in place when removing a harmonic balancer bolt is to start the #1 cylinder on its compression stroke. Then feed a polypropylene rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. The engine will then rotate up compress th erope against the cylinder head and stop tight while you remove the bolt. Installation is reversed. Use a poly rope because it will not tear in the cylinder and will leave nothing behind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted October 28, 2004 Share Posted October 28, 2004 On removing the pully, if you have a manual, just put it in 4th or 5th gear. Otherwise, and impact gun or breaker bar with a strap wrench like 88 showed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjeffri Posted October 28, 2004 Author Share Posted October 28, 2004 Thanks for all the help guys! I think I will try the strap wrench first, I have a friend who has one of ample size. You have convinced me to change the timing belts while I am in there, but am having trouble removing the upper timing belt cover, because there is a steel tube in the way (maybe it is AC?) Does anyone have any suggestions or experience with this problem? -J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgly Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 Metal tube in the way.... I dont specifically recall having a problem and this is because, when I had first started the job, a Nissan mechanic had warned me - "there is a metal tube which you will think is in the way and you would have to remove it - you dont, just be patient" I do remember coming to that point and recognizing this was what he was talking about - I didnt have to remove it but dont exactly remember what I did. So I will say, loosen any clamps which may be holding the tube tight and work the cover in all different directions to get it out - and remember sometimes you have to go up first before you can go down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmgar99 Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 I Love Harbor Freight.....Some many tools, so little cost, so little time! I have to buy a certain amount of tools every month at work (Union crap, have to prove I'm using the tool allowance on tools) Some of the tech's buy off the Snap On truck and get one tool they MIGHT use once or twice a year for an insane amount, and i go to Harbor Freight for those types of tools, (Strap wrenches, Star bits, allen wrench sets, impact hammer deep sockets, etc, etc) I can get all those tools for the price of one Snap On strap wrench. Sorry....I Digress..... sssh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjeffri Posted October 30, 2004 Author Share Posted October 30, 2004 Alright guys...I borrowed a strap wrench from a buddy, but I was unsuccesful. I tightened the strap down and then braced the strap wrench against a block of wood. I then pushed with all my might and weight on the end of the breaker bar (it is 14"); now I way 180 lbs. and I was pushing on the end of a 14" breaker bar, which should give me around 180 ft.lbs. of torque on the end of that bolt. The Haynes manual says it should be tightened to about 112, I should be able to far exceed that, so I am assuming there is a little play in the strap wrench and the pulley is rotating inside the strap just enough to reduce my effectiveness. I have yet to try Igranch's suggestion with the rope, I need to go out to the Home Depot and buy a few lengths of rope, 1/4, 3/8 etc. and yank the spark plug Now my one question...this nut is not reverse threaded is it? My manual says nothing about that, which if true, I would consider a useful and necessary piece of information. Ohh and dgly, I did get the cover off with some "maneuvering" of the tube and timing belt cover, thanks! Now if I can just get this (insert own expletive) pulley off I might be able to progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjeffri Posted October 31, 2004 Author Share Posted October 31, 2004 I finally got the bolt out of the crankshaft pulley. Using Igranch's technique, (a poly rope inserted into the #1 cylinder) the force of gravity, and a little bit of contorting and pulling as I wedged myself into the engine compartment, that bolt broke loose, thanks for all of your advice and help. I need to get the pulley off now, so I will get a loaner puller from the auto parts store tomorrow. I tried to pull it with a screwdriver as a prybar, but to no avail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjeffri Posted November 2, 2004 Author Share Posted November 2, 2004 I finally finished the waterpump change. It looks like it worked. I drove the pathy around for about 20 minutes and the temp. gauge stayed at about 40% once it warmed to that point. I think that this means that the thermostat is working (I replaced that while I was in there...$20 part) as well as the waterpump. To Igranch...thanks for the tip on the rope in cylinder#1. And to all others, thanks for the suggestions on changing the timing belts, I didn't realize that you actually had to remove the belt to change the waterpump and thanks for all of your help! NPORA Rules! -J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgranch Posted November 2, 2004 Share Posted November 2, 2004 Now that you established that you can fix things on your Pathy, with a little advice, I expect you to keep doing your own work. Just ask on the forum and someone will likely have the solution. :gossip: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjeffri Posted November 2, 2004 Author Share Posted November 2, 2004 I will be doing as much of my own work as I can, in this case it was mostly loosening bolts, pulling things off, putting things back, and tightening bolts. My next project will be my valve cover gaskets, and when the time comes a suspension lift and maybe some new bushings. I do have little squeek in one of my belts when I start the car now. It sounds like it might be from the power steering belt, and that is the only pulley that I actually adjusted (I just removed the brackets for the upper idler and the tensioner, which incidentally doesn't move because the last person (who wasn't me) bent the idler screw). So, does the belt usually squeek and make noise when the belt is too tight or too loose? -J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archer973 Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 I have yet to try Igranch's suggestion with the rope, I need to go out to the Home Depot and buy a few lengths of rope, 1/4, 3/8 etc. and yank the spark plug Now my one question...this nut is not reverse threaded is it? My manual says nothing about that, which if true, I would consider a useful and necessary piece of information. I was looking for helpful tips for removing the crankshaft pulley. I've used the rope trick on small engines quite often. I had never heard of anyone doing it on a multi-cylinder engine. Thank you for posting that it worked well for you so I will use that tip. I didn't see an answer to your question about LH threads and since you finished the job I assume it isn't. Back to the garage now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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