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as requested "hello"

Maybe Im reading your email slightly different than the last two replies; I believe you were asking how to ensure the hose remains attached; and offered the glue solution... First off, yes buy a new hose, it should be tight enough not to be a problem Secondly, if it seems this new hose may be loose, use a small hose clamp

Have you checked the ECU codes? Could be one or two problems at same time. Once I had some very strange problems due to the Throttle Position Sensor. Car seemed ok at idle and going slowly, but when I started to give some gas (for above 35 mph driving) the rpms would oscillate radically - engine would sputter and it seemed like the transmission was going to die. In my case, I dont think there was an ECU code, it was conneted but the coil spring was not hooked to the stem. I dont believe this effected starting though. Perhaps (since it is the winter time = cold) you could also have a problem with battery or could be starter etc Check ECU codes Dont rule out that this could be 1 or 2 problems Read in Haynes/Chilton how to check throttle position sensor - basically you backprobe connector and check voltage given at idle vs when you open the throttle - books should tell you which pins to use and what Voltage levels you should be seeing.

As I live here in the northeast I am subject to the single digit temperatures (yeah). Ive been noticing a difference in the time it takes for my 96 Pathfinder to warm up and blow hot/warm air vs my g/f 92 Ford Explorer. In the moring with both cars at same time since last driven (night before) it would take approx 15 minutes for semi-hot air to blow out of my vents. The 92 explorer will blow Dante's Inferno style sahara dessert heat easily within 8 - 10 minutes. So... anyone else noticing P/Fs taking this long..... any suggestions other than to let the car heat up longer or buy a pair of mittens?

If you want to save $$$ then you can do this yourself. I had changed by timing belt & waterpump on my '96 without much previous experinece. It took both days of a weekend because was all new to me but when all was said and done and the car started afterward I did have a smile on my face. You will need time, tools, manual, and some mechanical comon sense. Also there are some postings about his job - procedure and more importantly the tricks.

$600 should be for labor & parts (except h2o pump). The thermostat is @ $10, the timing belt should only be @ $30-40 (at least that was what I believe mine was)... didnt include price for water pump though - my '96 water pump was @ $120 - 200 (dont remember exactly). Trick is to find a local mechanic that is recommended to you, or that you trust... shouldnt be too much more than this.

My MAF died (changed connector and didnt help) and rendered my '96 un-driveable... Nissan sells for $500!!!!!!!!! but luckily the 13th junkyard I called had one and sold it for $70 (they didnt know what they had I think).... may want to call around to local j-yards, could save you big $

Its the worst feeling when you do something simple then all the sudden the engine wont run. Sometime coincidences do happen but... When you were removing wires, distributor, plugs you may have disconnected (or hit) an electrical connector and now its not making contact- always make sure you put back what you take apart. Also, could be when you did (if applicable) plug connectors back you may have pushed in a pin or disturbed a short waiting to happen (but you did say no ECU codes - ?). Check all connectors (and vaccuum hoses) in vicinity of where you were working. Check fuel pump operation What the helk - change the fuel filter also

That was mean... but darn funny. All jobs mentioned should be done at same time as all are on the way toward changing timing belt. Find a local mech to do the job - $500 - $600 sounds more like it (if that)... AND remember boys and girls DONT GO TO PEPBOYS for service... they completed a $500 brake job when all was said and done, after the third time I took the car back in - it didnt fix the problem (oh its a whole story) So dont go to dealers or PepBoys... use local mechanic or haynes/chiltons, elbow grease and bandaids

All- Need your opinions/experience Whenever my ('96 3.3L) PF is driven over rough road at low speed - best example is a speed hump - I hear a rubbing noise from front of vehicle. This sounds as if the shocks were shot; however, I replaced all of em approx 1 month ago. To desribe the sound - its as if the coil spring (on the strut assy) was rubbing against a stationary part when going over a speed hump. No - the spring is not actually contacting anything (except the strut assy which is torqued to spec :contract: ). Note, this is rather loud ie you can hear it no problem from inside car even with windows up (and radio at lower volume). Heard this before and after the new strut assy put in (did not change the coil spring, only changed out the assy which comes as one piece with shock included) I do have dust boots over the shock shafts so its not a matter of dirt getting in there and the noise from shaft scrapping dirt/etc in housing. I know I need to replace/repack front bearings but think this would be a sound associated with rotation, not an up/down translation.

I am experiencing a similar problem with sputtering. @ Idle and driving around town all is well, however when I am on the highway at speeds @ 63-70 mph and approx 2300 - 2600 rmp my car sputters. It is when I am maintaining speed not acceling or deceling through. During this range, when I give it gas, it mostly responds except one or two exceptions when the sputtering was at its deepest. Noticed 2 days ago, but today it is pronounced (getting worse) Above this range - no issue with sputtering or throttle response Below this range - no issue with sputtering or throttle response No ECM codes.

Metal tube in the way.... I dont specifically recall having a problem and this is because, when I had first started the job, a Nissan mechanic had warned me - "there is a metal tube which you will think is in the way and you would have to remove it - you dont, just be patient" I do remember coming to that point and recognizing this was what he was talking about - I didnt have to remove it but dont exactly remember what I did. So I will say, loosen any clamps which may be holding the tube tight and work the cover in all different directions to get it out - and remember sometimes you have to go up first before you can go down

He is correct - change the timing belt while you're there - extra $40 (or so). I have changed by timing belt & water pump with no prev experience - used Haynes book and comon sense. Your original question - you should be able to unscrew the crankshaft bolt by simply using an air gun (just crank up the psi). You could also use a strap wrench to hold on to it while using a air gun. You will have to pull the crankshaft pulley off - it should come by itself; mine didnt, I had to use a pulley puller. NOTE, if you use a puller to remove the pulley, make sure you remove the bushing that the bolt goes through. If you dont, you will end up retightening the bolt and pulling on the pulley, and sooner or later - pop, and thats not a good sound. TIMING BELT Changing TIPS- >Rotate the crankshaft pulley bolt till you see #1 piston at TDC Do this by removing your distributor cap, when the rotor points to where the #1 spark plug is, you are there (because it really doesnt matter if the cylinder is TOP dead center or BOTTOM dead center - either way its in the correct position) >When you remove the crankshaft pulley & surrounding parts & covers you will expose the timing belt (and H2O pump behind). Note, you should see dimples on each cam shaft and crank shaft pulley/sprocket. These should be aligned to dimples in the case next to it (if you correctly moved #1 piston as above) >Remove tension from tensioner and remove old belt. >Install new belt with white marks on belt corresponding to dimples on sprockets - DOUBLE/TRIPLE CHECK THAT ALL THREE LINE UP >Let the tensioner back into free standing position and that should provide the correct amount of tension (according to a Nissan Mechanic I asked) - in Haynes book it does say to place some specific thickness feelergage before between tensioner and belt - but think you could do it either way. Again double check the white marks on the new belt match the dimples on the pulleys/sprocket & cases >When all is said and done you have to tighten up the crankshaft bolt to a high ft-lb. I used a strap wrench and held on for dear life as my buddy used a 3ft torque wrench and pulled for all he was worth. Im told you could also just crank up an air gun and let it rip, but I didnt do it this way.