fmcoupe Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 hey guys i need some help with my 1993 pathfinder. its automatic not going into any gear at all. there where no signs of any thing being wrong with it. i was driving normal and it just disengaged. someone told me to look to see if the cable was still attached and it is. i tried it in 4 high and low and 2h. the rpms change when i put it in reverse and drive the rpms jump up a little. it also rolls in park. i checked the fluid and when i put it on my finger it it feels kind of grainy. is there anything i should be looking at or does anyone know whats wrong with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 Sounds like torque converter is a possibility. Other than that I don't know the transmission well enough. Just from reading on here it has been the TC when those symptoms appear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WyKi Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Hello there, I recently went thru that same problem. When driving the PF just didnt go from one moment to another. it went to "neutral" all by itself. Had to be towed back home. Anyways.. took the tranny down, took the torque converter off and took it to the tranny store and they told me that that was my problem. bought a new one and also bought the trans. oil filter and gasket. plus around 10 qts of oil to be sure. Filled the TC with oil then installed. And also installed the filter with its gasket. tried to turn the truck on and nothing, checked everything over. Found out the neutral safety swith got messed up aswell... took it apart and found out it was broken inside. Bought a new one and installed it. Turned the truck on and put it in drive and it took off. So yea.. check your TC and if it's like you said that the oil felt grainy then yea.. check that out too as you might have metal shavings in your oil. If anything while you're investigating just come back and ask... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fmcoupe Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share Posted October 19, 2010 sorry for the late reply i just came back from germany. how hard was it to take out the transmission and install it. are there any special tools needed. i have never done anything that big but im thinking of trying it because my truck is in good condition and when it was running got a lot of complements for how i well i have kept it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 It is not especially hard, just a lot of work. You will need some tall jackstands to lift the entire truck high, a tranny jack to deal with the monster and a decent place to work, hopefully indoors. Then there is the normal assortments of wrenches, sockets, extensions and curses. Go to the Garage section, pinned near the top is a thread on where to download your free Factory Service Manual which will tell you all you need to know. 1994 is the earliest year, but it will work for you for everything other than interior and some trim. Also, there are threads on auto tranny diagnostics (as well as in the FSM) so look them up and try to figure out what is going on before you tear into it. I don't recall where they are off hand, maybe in the Garage/How To section. Yes, if the truck is in good condition it is definitely worth repairing... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 (edited) Are you in Vancouver, WA or Vancouver BC? I'm in WA and have a torque converter and flex plate with only 102,000 miles on it if you do find your torque converter is blown. Weird, I got a call last night asking for a transmission/torque converter for a VG... Edited October 19, 2010 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 One piece of advice, if your exhaust is original/rusty I would just cut it off instead of pissing around trying to grind out the Y pipe bolts as it is a pita and is just easier to spend the 150 on a new Y pipe. This was my experience when helping another member here with his. Also the haynes manual is a piece of crap for this procedure. I would use the FSM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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